so whats the total cost put into this thing?

 

thanks

those are Traxxas drive shafts for a Stampede if I'm not mistaken. They come in a pack as half shafts. You can get a pack of 6 complete drive shafts for $10, and right away they're a direct fit in place of the stock ones (pop right onto the Axial yokes), and I believe they're a little stronger too! I have yet to break one of these Traxxas drive shafts like I did the stock Axial ones, but I have had them pop off at the u-joints, thus the reason for the Axial rings at each end, which was what another $5 for each pair I think? The steel yokes are a little pricey though, but I broke a screw off in one of my Axial ones and couldn't get it out, so I decided I'd just order a hole new set of yokes and keep the remaining 3 Axials as spares. These hardened steel yokes are also a Traxxas part, again a direct fit but they're about $15 a pair...


the taller tires and the 20t motor is what made me start killing the drive shafts and the transmission gear lol




oh common man it's like a real rig, who really keeps track lol

figure $300 for the truck out of the box, another $20 for materials making my own links, $40 for the second set of wheels and tires, $40 for the Wraith trans and motor, $60 or so in transmission and drive-line hop-ups, maybe $15 in the scale accessories like the cooler, LED lighting, etc., and if you want to count the receiver and transmitter I bought to run with it add another $100 to it lol but I can use that transmitter for other rigs so it's not JUST for this truck

so that brings me around $475, with the transmitter I bought $575... wow man why did you make me sit there and add all that up... that's more money that I though I've spent on it, LOL

 

Damn you Travis - now I can't decide if I want a Wraith or yours.

(as you can tell, I didn't actually unsubscribe from this thread like I should have...)

Fink

 

By the way Travis, is there any way for you to take a video of how fast your rig goes at full throttle on flat ground?

I have to decide if I want the Wraith for crawling and high speed bashing, or if I want yours for more calm, crawling fun.

It's not big deal if you can't, I was just curious if you had one I could check out.

Fink

 

^you can always make any RC faster and stronger for high speed bashing - you'll eventually be upgrading parts regardless so IMO it all depends on what size RC you want and what body you are planning to run. a wraith axle is a good 2"+ wider than the Honcho and has larger tires. you can even buy the Wraith axles separate from the whole thing now if you wanna upgrade...just remember that the more you wanna play, the more you gotta pay!

i don't even want to know how much i've spent on mine, because it makes my 1:1 jealous of the attention. i'd guess i'm getting close to (or above ) 700 and find myself needing more stuff...good thing my paypal comes from MY account, hehehe.

bleeder - thanks for the info. guess i'll be getting some new d-shafts and axial rings.

 

yeah I'll see if I can get some video. might be meeting up with the local gang this weekend and running out rigs at (and in) the creek it was pretty slow to start with when I got it; maybe a brisk walking speed, but now with it's current motor, gearing, and power source, it's a little faster than a jog

I could VERY easily make it a LOT fast just by changing the spur and pinion gears, and I've been thinking about doing it and adjusting the shocks so it's stable at speed (limiting them so it sits lower and stiffening them up) just to see how fast it would actually run but you loose a lot of low end torque and low speed throttle control when you gear up high for speed, which is not really desirable when it's a "crawler" but I still want to do it


and yeah future plans MIGHT be throwing some Wraith axles under this chassis to give it that 1-ton axle swap look

 

Good mods Travis.

I actually saw a lowering kit online for the Wraith, and you keep the same tire size.
This is suppose to make it more stable in the turns.
I have flipped mine several times.

 

I noticed that you had to clearance the diff cover for the mods you did above, did you end up slapping some silicone on that to waterproof it?

Fink

 

you mean the spur cover?







all that's behind it is the pinion gear on the motor and the spur gear that it drives







before the Wraith, the comp AX-10 and the scale SCX-10 didn't come with a cover at all, although it was an optional part that you could buy and install. the Wraith just comes with it automatically. but if water gets to those gears it's not a big deal. sand will sometimes get into them and make a little noise, but it doesn't stay in there long


that's also the reason I made a little clearance hole at the bottom, so that if some sand and water gets in there (which I KNOW it will) it should drain out pretty easily. I might have to make it a little larger though

 

Dude...you are becoming the R/C master. Nice work!

I think I am actually leaning towards the SCX10 at this point - yours is badass.

I don't have the patience nor the time for all of the LED lights and stuff, but I would definitely waterproof it and add the larger wheels and tires.

I just have to discipline myself enough to save my money and get some DuraTracs for my real truck first.

Fink

 

lol, man I'm just a beginner, I'm just doing some things that I've seen other do, and am kinda developing my own ideas and going with them. I'm no where NEAR a master


don't think I'll be making the trip out this weekend; not enough people are going to be able to make it. BUT, next weekend, it's on! I'm coming down to Casselberry after Thanksgiving (would come for FOR Thanksgiving, but I have to work on Friday for a few hours...), and we're suppose to meet up in Sanford for a little fun

 

Where and when are you going this weekend? If it's not a problem, I'd like to meet up with you guys and check out the rigs in person.

I'm really leaning towards the SCX10 after reading some build-ups and such. I just think the Wraith is too much to spend on my first R/C in almost 8 years.

Fink

 

Maybe this has already been talked about, but it looks like the SCX10 Honcho (AX90016) has been discontinued and replaced by this.

Tower Hobbies has that one listed for $355!

Fink

 

Quick question for you guys. I'm looking into getting a scale crawler of some sort for myself sometime in the near future. My main question I have though is I'd like to get something for my son as well so we can run them together. The catch is that I want to make sure whatever we get him is more rugged than performance based since he's only 8. Any ideas?

 

Amazon has the new style for $485, and it has next day or two day shipping for free is you are a Prime member like me.
Axial Racing SCX10 Kit with Trail Honcho Body and LEDs
That is waaaaaaaaaaay more than I paid for my Wraith.
First I have seen this new Honcho.
I wonder if it uses the wider setup like the Wraith and the same motor?

There is a video there too.
This may not be the same one you linked Fink From Axial.

 

I would skip on any new RTR SCX10 that you find... there's been a big uproar about the new kits over on RCCrawler and how for whatever reason, Axial got away from true bead-lock wheels and went for glued wheels, and so on and so forth. You get the newer drive shafts that are coming with the Wraiths, but even those are not indestructible, and you'll be upgrading those in time too. If I were you, I would get a kit that you have to put together yourself. They still come with the bead-lock wheels (for now), you'll get the aluminum links instead of plastic ones, and don't come with any electronics so you can and go ahead and get some good stuff to install on it, because that's probably stuff you'll be replacing on the RTR anyway the only electronic part I haven't replaced from the stock RTR mine use to be is the ESC, simply because it's a Castle ESC at heart with a sticker on it that says Axial, and it's proven to be reliable and has all the features I need, but I will probably be upgrading it in the future when I decide to go with a different motor and maybe step up into higher voltage lipo batteries



Fink, it depends. I've only been once, and we got together at a boat ramp by 17/92 and i4, by Lake Monroe

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=28.835...h&vpsrc=0&z=18

but there's been talk recently about a spot by Dean and University road (I'm guessing the little park-like area behind the Pinch A Penny pool place), but I've never been out there and that may be where they're wanting to meet. Not sure quite yet, but I'll keep you posted. We like to meet up around 9:00am or so, and we're usually wheeling until 2 or 3 pm, or until we all manage to break something and can no longer wheel, lol, but most of those other guys have more than one rig and if one breaks, they'll use the other. me, I just come prepared to make repairs, because I only have the one

 

I watched a video about a month back on upgrading the Wraith, and the guy said to stick with the stock plastic control arms up front because they have flex built in.
He said if you use the aluminum ones, you can end up breaking other parts more easily since the aluminum ones do not flex.

I think he was talking about both the small links coming off of the ESC/motor, and also the longer steering rods.

Travis, do you have any input on that?

So far I have been very happy with the Wraith the way it is out of the box.
Except for the tipping over part since it is up high
I guess that is why they make a lowering kit for it to get the COG down.

 

true the plastic ones do flex, compared to aluminum or steel ones that will obviously NOT flex, but I have yet to have anything break because of my metal links. the thing has seen some nasty crashes off the top of cars, and even tumbled down my entire flight of stairs in my house, and nothing has broken I expected to find a broken knuckle at least after it bounced down the stairs, but nope, lol. the thing that I instantly noticed after making the steel links though was the reduced side to side slop in the axles, and how much more smoothly the suspension cycled with the metal balls in the joints as apposed to the plastic ones

but at the same rate, I know plenty of people who rock the original plastic ones and have any issues, so really I think it's just a personal choice



little update on the rig. I had to trim the corners of the new bumper a little to make a little clearance for the tires












and I also moved the spare tire from the stock location to up on the top of the rear cage, after flipping over the top part. probably didn't help my COG too much but it shouldn't hurt it too bad; the tire doesn't weigh a whole heck of a lot. but it gives me some room in the rear to play around with and throw in some scale stuff

 

That can't be the same one - I haven't gone to that link yet, but the one I found on Tower Hobbies was for $385 or so.

I'll check on this a little bit later.

Thanks for looking into it for me Corey.

I have a Prime Membership also - it rocks!

Fink

 

this is where I bought mine from

still the best price around

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Axial-SCX...4-p-18037.html



somebody is making some SERIOUS money selling them for $490 a pop there on Amazon...