94 Manual 5speed 2.4L 2wd

I just changed my clutch with a cheapo "Perfection" clutch, when mine (stock) started to slip after 270k. first time doing clutch. started it up, drove for a day to work and back. then second time driving it it starts making this noise. Rattle/clang/grinding(?). its only faintly like a grind. more sound like rapid metal on metal tapping. Its not an intense sound but it is noticeable and worrisome. It only happens at around 45-53 MPH and only when throttling a little more than is normal. I dont have a tach but it doesnt seem to be rpm related or it would happen in all gears. If i continue to throttle the same past 53mph it goes away. if i drop below 47 it goes away. if i throttle slowly through 47-53 it doesnt happen.

At first i sounded like it was comming from the rear, but with the shifter boot off its sounds like transmission area or drivetrain. I just replaced the U joints after this noise showed up thinking it could be the culprit.

Im stumped and worried that i screwed something up on the clutch job. However, the clutch feels 10x better than it did before i changed it, no strange noises when shifting or any part of driving but the specific situtation described above.

WHAT COULD THIS BE?! its driving me nuts! any advice or help figuring this out would be greatly appreciated!

 

Oops!!!

 

So I forgot to mention I cross threaded an engine mount bolt on that bracket that holds the trans. I cranked it down as far as I could. It it is not all the way in (I know it was dumb). Could this be the culprit?

 

i am going to try and tread chase the bolt hole, and if that doesn't work im going to try taping it and using a larger bolt. unfortunately i am super confused as to what size it needs to be for the chase. i will keep updating in hopes that if anyone else experiences this they could find some help in this thread.

 

Did you use a clutch set tool? Torque down fly wheel and clutch bolts down correctly? I've changed the clutch in my truck twice, cause I used to roast them tires all the time haha but never had any problems after. Just throwing my thoughts out there.

 

i used alignment tool. and as an update i helio coiled the hole and put in new bolt. tightened down all the way and took a good amount of torque. noise still persists.

i am afraid that my only other option may be to pull the tranny again next weekend and inspecting everything. does anyone know of something else it could be? i notice the engine has a lot more torque traveling through the sytem to the rear differential. can there be something else that would show signs of wear along the way having more force exerted on it? also the tranny fluid was milky from condensation so i changed it out. wanted to do this to the rear diff as well. could it be the rear diff getting more torque and having crappy gear oil?

 

i disassembled clutch.. reassembled with new throwout bearing and hub. changed pressure plate and disk since i had to return the whole kit just to get a new bearing (the kit i originally bought had the wrong bearing and included no hub). noise still persists. higher pitched clanging/rattle/ with a slight grind undertone. HELP!!!!!

 

Well now I'm wondering if it could be a driveshaft balance issue. In going to look for the original marks and see if lining them up helps at all. I would still love to hear what people think it could be.

 

I'm also going to jack the tires off the ground and see if it still does it. It didn't do it when I tried to replicate with the driveshaft off. Maybe that isolates it as a driveshaft problem.

 

Took driveshaft off. Noticed metal dust and shavings on yoke and output shaft.

Zuk mod + extra torque and bad pinko angle? Could it be the rear oil seal that I dented up putting it in? Does that seal stabilize the yoke at all?

 

Check your u joints. Had them go bad on my truck before made bad vibrations. Cheap and easy to fix.

 

That's the first thing I did. I found metal shavings on the splines and the noise does seem to emanate from there. I'm just trying to figure out what exactly is causing it or if they are just worn too bad to handle the increase in torque.

 

Can you move your drive shaft up and down or side to side at any of the joints. It's pretty noticeable. I missed checked mine one time cause I Tried twisting the shaft back and forth but actually has to go up and down side to side. At least on mine it did. Hopefully that's the problem cause its easy to fix and cheap like $13. The rear and front at least. If you have the 2 shafts with the yolk in the middle idk how hard that one is never had to replace it.

 

straight shaft. already replaced u joints after this started.

 

Oh ok, well out of ideas here for now. Sorry, hope you get it figured out!

 

Pretty sure now that pinion angle from the Zuk caused this. Having a lot of trouble finding a slip yoke source. All the ones I have found are not 21 splines. Also trying to figure out if they built the output shaft with more durability than yoke. Would it also be trashed?

Where is the location of the thread on this forum with the guy who has the yota graveyard and hard to find parts?

 

update. mechanic friend said yoke has normal play. replaced throwout bearing and hub, and pilot. got a salvaged tranny. noise still persists. took it to a shop and the guy couldnt ID the cause. said it might be timing chain. does this sound like it could be be the death rattle? i am pulling valve cover soon. so frustrated. going on 2 months with no truck

 

if anyone looks at this post... pretty sure my problem is timing chain. took valve cover off. deep railroad lines and (i kid you not) 1" play in the chain.

 

ok so not 1" play in chain. it was bad but not as bad as i first thought. replaced timing chain and all the attachments. THE NOISE IS STILL THERE. i had taken it to a shop and they said cracked exhaust manifold. is that something that could cause this noise?

 

Can you make a video of the noise? Its really hard to diagnose anything with just a described sound.