97 T100 Build
#162
Registered User
Thread Starter
The headliner and the rear window.
In my haste to get a glimpse of the 1-piece rear window I completely forgot that the rear window seal is what provides the final “front to back” tension on the headliner.
ie; You have to take out the rear window, pull the headliner to the tension you want it, glue and clamp that rear edge.
Then..........
Install the rear window.
So, it looks like the rear window needs to come back out.... Lol.
I don’t mind the work, but damn if I hate to waste the $70 worth of window sealant I used putting it in.
ie; You have to take out the rear window, pull the headliner to the tension you want it, glue and clamp that rear edge.
Then..........
Install the rear window.
So, it looks like the rear window needs to come back out.... Lol.
I don’t mind the work, but damn if I hate to waste the $70 worth of window sealant I used putting it in.
#163
Registered User
Thread Starter
The turning point is today.
The headliner is the fulcrum of the interior.
It comes out last and goes in first.
My sewing skills turned out to be not so bad after all.
I’m installing the headliner a little over-tight because it’s fabric and I expect some stretching over time.
So I guess the posts from this point on will be re-assembly.
I’m stoked.
It comes out last and goes in first.
My sewing skills turned out to be not so bad after all.
I’m installing the headliner a little over-tight because it’s fabric and I expect some stretching over time.
So I guess the posts from this point on will be re-assembly.
I’m stoked.
#164
Registered User
Thread Starter
I need more binder clips though.
The edges in the door seals have to be glued tight and every inch counts with the adhesive.
Last edited by 55reasons; 12-27-2018 at 01:17 PM.
#166
Registered User
Thread Starter
Does your rear view mirror shake and rattle?
I discovered when putting it back in that the mirror mount had play in it.
I devised a plan.
Cut some cardboard pieces (old loctite package) the same size of the metal tension cylinders.
Wrapped it around them.
Put all that inside a piece of heat shrink.
Heated it up to compact it.
Put it all back together.
SNUG!
I devised a plan.
Cut some cardboard pieces (old loctite package) the same size of the metal tension cylinders.
Wrapped it around them.
Put all that inside a piece of heat shrink.
Heated it up to compact it.
Put it all back together.
SNUG!
#167
Registered User
Thread Starter
Like all Toyota trucks I already know the interior lights suck.
So I went ahead and swapped in some LED’s.
Bolted everything back up, and viola!
You can see the hands free mic for the Alpine head unit just left of the mirror assembly.
Yes, I had to drill a hole there, but the placement is perfect.
Bolted everything back up, and viola!
You can see the hands free mic for the Alpine head unit just left of the mirror assembly.
Yes, I had to drill a hole there, but the placement is perfect.
Last edited by 55reasons; 01-03-2019 at 07:07 AM.
#168
Registered User
Thread Starter
In the mean time, the front fender.
At some point this thing hit something in the passenger side front corner.
noticed when the headlight and grille on that side didn’t really line up.
Also, the antenna needed replacement.
Pulled the fender to take a look and decided to use some spare dynamat left over from the cab to add some silence to the fenders. They’re super tinny.
Not anymore.
noticed when the headlight and grille on that side didn’t really line up.
Also, the antenna needed replacement.
Pulled the fender to take a look and decided to use some spare dynamat left over from the cab to add some silence to the fenders. They’re super tinny.
Not anymore.
#169
Registered User
Thread Starter
Been too busy to get anything done... But...
I noticed I overlooked an issue with the body lift.
I did not address the impact to the transmission linkage and it’s permanently stuck in Park until I can figure it out.
I did not address the impact to the transmission linkage and it’s permanently stuck in Park until I can figure it out.
#171
Registered User
Thread Starter
I don’t think so.
just need to find a spot where I can add 2” in the linkage to compensate for the lift.
4crawler’s site is super vague to resolve this.
Some statements say there is pently of room for shifter linkage adjustment, followed up by mentioning a linkage adjustment spacer you can buy from them.
it’s all smoke and mirrors with 4crawler so far.
It’s like they piece together their website, but when you go to order and ask them if what you have will complete the job, they just shrug their shoulders like every lift is the first time it’s ever been tried.
#172
Registered User
Thread Starter
Cluster LED upgrade
Has anyone tried upgrading ALL of the dash bulbs to LED?
I know there are websites to order them from, but it looks like some of the mounting holes have no room for bulbs that are not the SAME size or smaller, etc...
I know there are websites to order them from, but it looks like some of the mounting holes have no room for bulbs that are not the SAME size or smaller, etc...
#173
Registered User
Thread Starter
No Oil Pressure or washer fluid lights?
Pulling bulbs and shining lights through the holes, I mapped out the bottom row of bulbs and what they illuminate.
When viewed from the back holes 1, 5, and 14 are blacked out.
But.... hole 7 is a washer fluid light, and 17 is Oil Pressure
I notice on BOTH gauge clusters I have that there is no bulb in either of these holes.
Does anyone know why that would be?
When viewed from the back holes 1, 5, and 14 are blacked out.
But.... hole 7 is a washer fluid light, and 17 is Oil Pressure
I notice on BOTH gauge clusters I have that there is no bulb in either of these holes.
Does anyone know why that would be?
Last edited by 55reasons; 01-19-2019 at 05:26 PM.
#176
Registered User
4Crawler's website was self designed (I think?) back in the late 1990s to early 2000s and the format has stayed the same ever since. It could use an upgrade.
Since you have an SR5 truck, your gauge cluster should come with a oil pressure gauge.
Toyota used the oil pressure warning light on base models and on higher trim models (such as your SR5) Toyota used an oil pressure gauge in place of the light. For manufacturing purposes, the space for the oil pressure warning light was left in place, unused, on models that came with the gauge.
I have never seen a washer fluid warning light on earlier models, so this must have been an option not equipped on your truck, but left in place for manufacturing purposes.
I don't know what the LED equivalent to the PRND2L indicator bulbs would be, but with enough searching with dimensions, original bulb type, and light output, you can probably find some. You might need to get creative with this exposed-lead type of bulb though.
I prefer the soft, warm glow of the OEM incandescent bulbs myself, but I am definitely in the minority on that.
Since you have an SR5 truck, your gauge cluster should come with a oil pressure gauge.
Toyota used the oil pressure warning light on base models and on higher trim models (such as your SR5) Toyota used an oil pressure gauge in place of the light. For manufacturing purposes, the space for the oil pressure warning light was left in place, unused, on models that came with the gauge.
I have never seen a washer fluid warning light on earlier models, so this must have been an option not equipped on your truck, but left in place for manufacturing purposes.
I don't know what the LED equivalent to the PRND2L indicator bulbs would be, but with enough searching with dimensions, original bulb type, and light output, you can probably find some. You might need to get creative with this exposed-lead type of bulb though.
I prefer the soft, warm glow of the OEM incandescent bulbs myself, but I am definitely in the minority on that.
The following users liked this post:
BeRT100 (05-08-2019)
#177
Registered User
Thread Starter
4Crawler's website was self designed (I think?) back in the late 1990s to early 2000s and the format has stayed the same ever since. It could use an upgrade.
Since you have an SR5 truck, your gauge cluster should come with a oil pressure gauge.
Toyota used the oil pressure warning light on base models and on higher trim models (such as your SR5) Toyota used an oil pressure gauge in place of the light. For manufacturing purposes, the space for the oil pressure warning light was left in place, unused, on models that came with the gauge.
I have never seen a washer fluid warning light on earlier models, so this must have been an option not equipped on your truck, but left in place for manufacturing purposes.
I don't know what the LED equivalent to the PRND2L indicator bulbs would be, but with enough searching with dimensions, original bulb type, and light output, you can probably find some. You might need to get creative with this exposed-lead type of bulb though.
I prefer the soft, warm glow of the OEM incandescent bulbs myself, but I am definitely in the minority on that.
Since you have an SR5 truck, your gauge cluster should come with a oil pressure gauge.
Toyota used the oil pressure warning light on base models and on higher trim models (such as your SR5) Toyota used an oil pressure gauge in place of the light. For manufacturing purposes, the space for the oil pressure warning light was left in place, unused, on models that came with the gauge.
I have never seen a washer fluid warning light on earlier models, so this must have been an option not equipped on your truck, but left in place for manufacturing purposes.
I don't know what the LED equivalent to the PRND2L indicator bulbs would be, but with enough searching with dimensions, original bulb type, and light output, you can probably find some. You might need to get creative with this exposed-lead type of bulb though.
I prefer the soft, warm glow of the OEM incandescent bulbs myself, but I am definitely in the minority on that.
Thanks for the input !!!
#178
Registered User
Thread Starter
Headliner progress
The adhesive I’m using on the edges is amazing stuff, but it has a 2 WEEK cure time. (yeah really)..
So it’s basically 2 weeks per segment.
Anyway, it’s starting to look like a truck again.
So it’s basically 2 weeks per segment.
Anyway, it’s starting to look like a truck again.
#179
Registered User
Thread Starter
Been super busy but.....
Made it to the last segment of the headliner and got the dome light LED swapped.
Also swapped out the bulb in the drivers side footwell.
Found a really straight hood.
Also swapped out the bulb in the drivers side footwell.
Found a really straight hood.
#180
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hood braces separated from hood skin fix.
Welding the hood braces to the hood skin didn’t turn out well. The temperature swings and the expansion and contraction of the metal caused dimples in the hood skin.
So I did some research on this and the correct fix for this is:
3M 08463
It’s a flexible (FLEXIBLE!) super adhesive foam.
$65 for 6.5 Oz. You do the math.
Requires the double pump gun also, so I’m out $120.
Anyway, this is designed for this purpose. I wish I would have known that. Lol..
I have to wait for the gun to arrive, but when it does I’ll post up some photos of that process.
The following users liked this post:
BeRT100 (05-08-2019)