Thanks for the compliment and all the help!

It sounds like extended brake lines are a good idea and I will probably look into those. I don't know about cheap though, it looks like they are going to run about $75, a bit expensive for some brake lines if you ask me.

I also think that extended bump stops are a good idea so I will look into getting some of those as well. Sonoran Steel wants $150 for bump stop mounts and the bump stops which in my mind is absolutely ridiculous. I will look into getting the actual bump stops and make my own mounts out of some square tubing or something. That should save me about $100 or so.

Finally, for now I think I am going to hold off on the panhard bar and sway bar adjustment brackets. I don't have an elocker so I don't have to worry about the sway bar hitting the motor. Also, I don't know if I can justify spending $200 on a new panhard bar when I have see/heard a lot of other guys going without it.

Again, thanks for all the info Urban! I am definitely open to other opinions/recommendations so keep 'em coming.

 

Agree. Please do not remind me how much all this stuff cost. Those wounds are still healing. I know several other companies are making an adjustable panhard, and some guys have made their own with some threaded heim joints.
In my opinion, the order of importance would be:
1. brake line
2. Panhard
3. Bumpstops
Looking forward to seeing your results. Thanks.

 

Thanks again for the help Urban. That is pretty much the list of importance in my mind right now. I think the only change I will make to that list, as least for now, is to get panhard drop brackets instead of an entirely new panhard bar. That way, at least the panhard bar will be relatively straight/level again. Let the bargain hunting begin!

 

In other news, I spent last week in Orlando with my wife and her family. It was a great break and was some much needed R&R.

What was the best part about being gone for a week? Coming back to truck parts! I came back to my factory airbox, 4" deckplate, and 3 switch insert for my Contura II rocker switches.

I was able to get the deckplate mod done and swapped out the factory airbox. Here are some pics of the work-in-progress, i don't have any of everything installed because it got dark on me but I will take some when the light is better.

I used a 4" hole saw to get the hole started but I still had to use my Dremel to shave off some extra to get it to fit snugly.


I used some marine silicone sealant on both the airbox and the deckplate and fastened it with some screws. After everything was fastened down, I ran another bead of silicone around the perimeter of the deckplate to make absolutely sure it is sealed.


With the deckplate in place


In the near future I will add an Airaid intake elbow, high flow permanent air filter (probably K&N or Spectre), and a Safari snorkel.

In addition, before I install the LX450 coils I am going to get all the parts I need together. I still need shocks and I am still thinking about extended brake lines, extended bump stops, and panhard drop brackets. I have gotten some really good info so far but if anyone has any additional info, I am open to advice.

 

sweet. that's always a nice feeling.

you going up to rausch creek on the 22nd-24th?

 

Yep I'm planning on it. I was actually going to ask you if you are heading up to see if we can caravan it and to see I might be able to crash in your trailer again.

 

er, um, trailer is occupied. i have a friend coming with me. but i do have tents and stuff if you want. caravaning is definitely an option. i'm planning on heading up friday evening, getting there around 9-ish

 

no worries at all man. I will talk to my parents and have them ship my camping stuff to me. They probably won't be able to send out everything, but I will have them send all the essentials (tent, sleeping bag, sleeping mat). I probably won't have cooking supplies so maybe we can coordinate food/meals like last time.

 

yeah, we're talking about that stuff on the event thread. link:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f15/...ia-248910-new/

there's a lot of people signed up to go, maybe a dozen or so

 

cool, I will join the discussion. Thanks dude

 

At my job, we have a rewards program that allows employees to earn a little extra money. So over performance year I was able to earn an extra $250. Unfortunately, it can't be redeemed for cash; it has to be redeemed for a gift card. So I am going to redeem it for an Amazon gift card and I would like to buy a compressor and hard mount it behind the trim panel in the rear like slomatt from UltimateYota did: http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...72.0;topicseen.

I did some more research and I am between two compressors, the Viair 400H and the Viair 400C.

I was also able to find that the 400H has a built in power switch and is simply wired with a 12V+ wire (with inline fuse) that goes to the battery and a ground wire. However, the problem is that I still want to mount the compressor out of sight and use a Contura II switch that is mounted by the dash to control the ON/OFF function. I am also planning on running a sealed air hose and will need a pressure switch. The good news is that Viair actually sells a relay with a built in pressure switch which is really cool!
VIAIR Corporation - Pressure Switch with Relay

So after looking at some of Viair's wiring diagrams, here is what I came up with. Keep in mind that this is just an electrical wiring diagram:
.

So my question is, will this setup work?

I found the 400C, that does not have a built in power switch and as far as I can tell, that is the only difference between the two models. Viair's website does say that the 400C is designed to fill a tank for an OBA system, while the 400H is designed to fill tires. But, is there really a difference or do you think I can use the 400C to fill my tires?

Ultimately, I think the 400C would be a better setup because it is a little smaller and it doesn't have the built in power switch which leaves me the option to use my own. I would wire it up the exact same way that is pictured above. The only problem is that I don't know if it will work for just inflating tires.

For reference, here are links to the two different models:
400H - VIAIR Corporation - 400H Part No. 40042
400C - VIAIR Corporation - 400C Part No. 40040

 

Just ordered my compressor and the main parts I will need to install it. I will still need some fittings, hose, and other miscellaneous parts from the hardware store, but I should have all the major components. Here is what I went with:
Viair 400C Compressor: http://www.amazon.com/Viair-40040-40...d_rhf_sc_p_t_1
Viair Pressure Switch/Relay: http://www.amazon.com/Viair-90111-Pr...d_rhf_sc_p_t_4
Viair Inflator/Deflator Hose with 100psi Gauge: http://www.amazon.com/Viair-00025-De...d_rhf_sc_p_t_3
20' of 4 Ga Wire
Fuse Holder

I can't wait to get it installed!

 

While browsing some threads, I came across a member over at T4R.org who was selling some pratically brand new assembled OME 882 coils with Nitrocharger 90004 struts. I have been wanting to replace the crappy spacer lift so I pulled the trigger on them. We ended up agreeing on $325 shipped, which is a pretty good deal considering the parts alone cost about $375 new.

I know that I won't be able to install them until I get a bumper and possibly a winch, but since I was planning on getting rid of the spacer lift eventually anyway, I will just have to move the bumper/winch to the top of the list.

Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried running these with a stock setup/no additional weight up front? I can only assume that the ride would be ridiculously stiff.

 

I just got these beauties in the mail yesterday!



Although I really wanted to wait and save for coilovers, these will suit my needs just fine, they are in really good shape, and they are already assembled.

 

6/25: Received my air compressor, pressure switch/relay, air hose/tire filler, and 4ga power wire with inline fuse from Amazon. I opened everything up only to find that the air compressor was missing all the extra parts/accessories. It was supposed to come with mounting hardware, a remote air filter, remote air filter hose, extra filters, etc. but none of it was included. I called Amazon and explained the situation and they were extremely helpful! They apologized for the mistake and inconvenience and said they would send me a new one and to just return the other one. I was able to print out a return shipping label and get it to UPS the same day.

6/26: Received 2 emails from Amazon. The first said that they received a shipping confirmation from UPS that the old compressor was in transit to them. The second was a shipment notification for the new compressor. I couldn't believe that they would send out a replacement before receiving the returned one first! Way to go Amazon!

6/29: Received the new compressor from Amazon. I opened this package and found the exact same thing as I did with the first, no extra parts/accessories! :ybrick:.

After thinking about it for a little while and looking at the Viair website, I decided to keep this one and just order a few extra parts. Rather than ordering a remote air filter assembly (like the one that would have come with the compressor), I ordered a direct air filter that screws right into the compressor and 4 pack of extra air filters. All said and done the extra parts only set me back about $15 plus shipping, nothing to make a big fuss over.

6/30-6/31: I spent the weekend gathering some of the various parts (mounting hardware, air hose, hose connectors, T-fittings, etc.) that I will need to get everything installed.

I also had some time to start the wiring process. Previously I had an 8ga fused 12+ power wire running from the battery back to my amp to power my subs. I removed the 8ga wire and replaced it with the new 4ga wire. I also ran a 14ga "relay" wire that will run from the rocker switch to the relay/pressure switch.

New 4ga power wire and 40amp fuse



Ran the power wire and relay wire under the plastic floor panels on the driver side


I installed a power distributor block with 1 - 4ga input and 4 - 8ga outputs. This will allow me to use the 4ga power wire to power my sub amp and air compressor. It also leaves me 2 additional outputs for any additional components in the future, i.e. another amp when I upgrade my component speakers.

(Pic will go here)

It was waaaaayy to hot out to do any more than that so more updates to come...

 

I was fortunate enough to have the 4th-6th off work so I had time to get the compressor install completed. It has been ridiculously hot here so I was only able to work for about 2 hours at a time.

I still have a little work left to get the exterior connection point where I want it, but other than that it's good to go.

Before I installed the compressor, I put down some foam weather stripping and gorilla tape to keep the compressor from rattling on the body panel. It also helped to dampen the noise.



Installed! The leader hose from the compressor runs to a T-fitting. On the left side of the fitting is the pressure switch/relay and on the right side of the fitting is a polyurethane (blue) air hose that runs to the exterior mounting point.


I used removable connectors to make all the wire connections just in case the compressor needs to be removed. You can also see the polyurethane hose that runs to the exterior.


Other notes:
1) The pictures do not show the metal Viair air filter. The metal filter screws into the hole at the top of the compressor (in the pictures, the hole is covered with a red plug).
2) Before I put the trim panels back on, I covered all the exposed wires in plastic wire conduit to protect them from heat/damage.
3) In order to get the compressor to fit in this location, you have to remove the plastic baffle that covers the air vents on the trim panel. I used more weather stripping and gorilla tape on the trim panel where the baffle used to be in order to keep the noise down as much as possible.
4) With where the compressor is mounted, only 2 of the 4 mounting holes are able to be used. In order to keep the compressor from rattling around, I fed the non-securing side of a long zip tie with a washer through the second mounting hole on the top compressor mount. The washer keeps the zip tie securing side from pulling through the compressor mounting hole I then fed the zip tie through a miscellaneous hole in the "body" panel that the compressor is mounted to. I secured the zip tie with a washer and the securing part of another zip tie.

Overall I am extremely happy with the results! The Viair compressor is amazing and after initial tests, it lives up to all the claims. I am also really happy with this mounting location because it will keep the compressor protected from damage and I didn't have to give up any storage space at all, truly a win-win in my mind.

 

not bad! where does the other end of the air line come out?

 

Thanks Ian! Currently I have the line running toward the rear and have it just zip tied to the top of the trailer hitch. What I'm planning on doing is drilling a hole in the rear bumper and have it more permanently mounted there. I am just worried that the male hose fitting will get damaged by mud, water, etc. so I am looking for some kind of cap to put on the end to keep it protected.

 

Hi, now that you have had the Load Warrior for a while, how do you like it?

I noticed in the pic for the CB install in May it wasn't on the truck so a little curious if you only use it now on excursions and if so what was the reason(s). MPG? Noise? Clearance?

I'm picking up an A.R.E. shell w/Yakima rails, screened Windoors, and front flip down slider for my 96 T100 4WD today. (see BajaTaco's rig, similar)

I have a Yakima Mega Warrior w/extensions and accessories going up and wondering what to expect. I won't be putting the spare up there even though I have 4 sets of Yakima cross bars if I choose to use all 4. Mostly using for Ski/Surf/Climbing/Mountain Bike/Camping gear.

Mega Warrior is pretty big but the T is approx 10" wider than the older Tacos and Runners. I picked it up for a good price so we'll see.

Yakima control towers are a little lower than Thule and remove very easily, (unlock, fold down to release from foot/base, lift off rack and position is same ready for reinstall later.)

I have the wind fairing as well so hopefully the noise will not be too bad. Going to go w/lights mounted on my giant Zombie Killing plate steel front bumper instead of the top rack for now.

Your truck sure looks great, thanks for so many posts and pics, fun to watch your progress.

 

Hey man! I really like the Yakima Loadwarrior combined with the Thule setup. The Thule bars are really strong and can hold the weight of the Yakima, 5 gallon jerry can, spare tire, hi-lift, etc.

The only reason that I don't have it on my truck all the time is because sometimes I have to drive to work in downtown DC and my truck won't fit in the small garages. I would love to keep it on all the time, but I just can't...

I have seen the Megawarrior on a couple other 3rd gens and I just think it is a little too wide, but that is just my opinion. Also, I think it will look much better with the lower profile Yakima rack system, because my Thule bars do sit up a little higher and it just looks off to me.

Those Yakima mounts sounds much easier to remove and adjust than mine do. That is one thing that I don't like about my Thule system, they are pretty easy to remove, but hard to adjust.

The wind fairing is definitely a good call. I have been searching craigslist for one to help cut down on the drag and wind noise.

I really like having the PIAA ATP lights up high because I can point them down the road/trail and can see everything. I am currently saving for an aftermarket bumper and I will definitely mount some fog lights on it when I can.

Thanks for the compliment! I appreciate the feedback and hopefully there will be more to come soon.