My 22r Ebay engine arrived today!





Now all I gotta do is tear off all the ancilliary parts from my doner 20r and get to assembling!! <giddy>

 

looks nice!!

 

I ain't complainin' for $300.

A couple more goodies and I'm ready to start assembly of my Hybrid!

 

Oh no They're all #1 pistons, who forgot to count to 4?

Good looking block, What, you have'nt got to wrenching yet ?!?

 

Thems are purdy cupholders...

Have fun!

 

is this 2.2L going to be seeing some forced induction I hope I hope??

 

String two of em together and make a V-8! KIDDING!!!!!!!!!! Looks good ENJOY!

 

Nice, don't forget to post pics of your buildup.

 

hey wait all the pistons are in the same position in their stroke!! That seems fishy to me....are the rods and crank ok in that block?

 

I was just about to point that out.

Looks very short compared to the inline-6 I am currently rebuilding.

 

you know, the crank could just be halfway between...the pistons will all line up in a 4 banger if you do that. and the "1" means it's 1mm over, or about .040 like my engine.

oh, and buddy, those aluminum rocker arms work great on a 20R head. no interference, and to at least my eyes, the geometry was exactly the same as my steel ones. only thing is, i can't hear the aluminum ones!

 

I just had my 20R/22R hybid built. I used an 83 block and 79-80 head with 1mm oversize ss valves and mild porting. The block is .030 over and I'll be running a thorley header, TRD stage 1 cam, Weber carb and adjustable cam gear. I'll be putting it in my car sometime in the next month as I find the time.

FYI...for a list of what interchanges on the 78-84 20R/22R here's a part number listing: http://www.mascotgraphics.com/78technical.htm

-Michael

 

Cool, keep us upadated!

 

i run a hybrid engine now. the low end is a little slow(mainly due to my 22R carb i think -- it runs really lean, and poor exhaust) but the engine will put out power well over 6000RPM. before, it would run out of juice after about 4500.

currently it's set up with a 22R carb(soon to be re-replaced with my 32/36 weber, and an offy manifold), engnbldr 268C cam, 1mm oversize SS valves, bronze guides, topline aluminum rockers, and a mild port job. the bottom end is from an '82 celica, .040 over. i just run a 22R head gasket, no problems there. bottom end is stock and seems pretty bulletproof so far. i may switch down to a 190* thermostat as the engine runs a little on the hot side. i also use ARP head and main studs, mostly for the benefit of not messing up the block threads, also because it's nice to be able to torque the head down to 80ft-lbs.

 

Damn dude... sounds like we're gunna be running twin engines!

You may recall I had the 20r head built a couple of months ago with an EB 268 cam, and the SS oversized valves. The bottom block for me is, as you said, stock ecxept for an overbore for the rebuild. I have a weber 32/36 waiting to go on the thing and I've been searching for a decent price on an Offy Dual-port manifold. (there's one on Ebay right now but I'm not sure if it's worth the $100... it looks kinda rough) I also scored a Celica exhaust manifold for the ''Poor-man's Tri-Y'' effect. I'll have the Y-pipe cut and lengthened to increase it's efficiency.

Good to know about the Head gasket.... that was one thing I meant to hit you up about. I would like to know though, if I should use 22r or 20r headbolts for this build (ARP is nice, but more than I need... I'll go that route with a turbo after I get the Vortech **see avatar** on my Sebring Coupe running right, and reliable )

As you can see the block is BARE. Would anyone happen to know offhand just what size bolts are needed to mount this thing to the engine stand?

Anyone out there have any tips or tricks? I've built a few engines in my day (318, 360, 383, and a 440 Chrysler) so I know my way around a block, but every make has it's quirks.

 

I have one at home that I bought but I may not use it. I paid about $65 for it, but it doesn't match up to my factory manifold as far as thermal switches. Also, it's got the EGR port in it will work with emissions.

I believe those bolts are 12 mm x 175 thread pitch (very fine threads). I got mine at Lowes for about $5 each and they're 120mm long, but let me check before you quote me on it.

What a coincidence...my "other" car is a 1965 Plymouth which is patiently waiting for the built (poly) 318 to get finished.

As for tips and tricks...the weber is awesome. It's well worth it, and I had to get the street legal one since I'm in the smog state. I have the THorley header in my car and MSD, as well as the LCE adjustable cam gear. The hybrid is on the stand now and has a new cam and is going into a 79 Corona.

I'll double check the bolts for you in a couple hours when I get home.

-Michael

 

Is that for a 20r or 22r? As far as I'm concerned, I'll be using the fewest port-n-plugs I can get away with, and fab up block-offs for those that I don't use. She's old enough now, that I don't have to run her through DEQ.


Yeah, I'm looking forward to the Weber. I hear they SOUND as good as they perform!

I looked at the Thorley.. decided $250 for a daily commuter wasn't cost effective... that's why i went withthe Celica manifold. the same runers merge, just not as far down... but I'm hoping to compensate by lengthening the secondary runners before joining them. I've been wondering about eh MSD. Does that REPLACE the ignitor set-up on the Toy's? Or is it used in conjunction? As for the adjustable cam gear....again.. price IS an object here.. I'm not looking for super high performance.. the reletively few ponies i'd gain would not be worth the extra money.

 

i've got a thorley header that will soon go on...my exhaust system is absolutely shot. i've been scoping out that dual port manifold, as $100 ain't bad compared to $186 new from offyparts.com. then again, anybody want to sell me a 20R offy manifold? mainly because i hate the 2 piece weber adapters to use the stock manifold so much, i will pay over $100 just for a manifold that'll let me bolt it right on.

webers, or any carb with a small open air cleaner will sound LOUD! even my 22R stocker carb sounds just like a weber. kinda fun when you whack the pedal really hard


i don't know if the newer 22R head bolts will work with an early engine. i think i asked engnbldr once upon a time and he said that his supplier says there's "no demand" for 20R/early 22R head bolts(just like early timing covers, and rocker arms). my ARP studs, when bottomed out in the block have about 2 threads left empty on the nut. they work, though.

 

isnt the 22r 2.4 liters?

 

yup.