So, the mechanic finished my clutch today. Oh, and the glass guy came to replace the rear window, which blew up in the time it took me to get a tow truck to the runner I left on the road.
Today's issue???
My mechanic shows up at the house as I'm leaving for work.
Says "Hop in. We gotta go for a ride"
Now, I don't know how many of you folks have your mechanic come around to your house, but at my place, that's the start of a bad day (see my post re can a tow truck do this?).[URL=https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14258]
Anyway, as we drive out of the driveway I can hear a low end knocking. Oh, wait...it was more like a CLANGING. Somehere once described a similar noise "Like someone was banging on a fridge, with a big hammer". Well, I'm no wrencher, but I DO know I don't have a fridge in the engine bay. Like a double knocking, at low speeds. Seems to go away as the revs go up. Except I know it's still lurking there, waiting to blow up somewhere near Broken Ear Falls, Nowhereville.

Mechanic says to me "I think the engine is out of it".
Me, I start looking for a gun.
Seems that when my clutch let go the engine over-reved. I closed my eyes at 6k. It may have hit 7K...I couldn't hear for my screaming.
Mechanic figures it's either the crankshaft, bearing or some other part, which of course is buried at least $1000 deep in the engine.

I'm hoping my aftermarket warrenty covers this, but we all know how THEY can weasel



Anyone have any other thoughts on this? Like what it may be that would be less spendy? Because this weeks total for repairs is about $1100. Clutch kit, tailgate window, tow, shop supplies, etc...Guess this means no 2" lift until next month

 

sorry to hear about the troubles, how exactly did the engine over-rev if the clutch gave out, did you have it on cruise control or was it so sudden you didnt take your foot off the gas?

 

I was running at about 60, going up a loooong hill. Engine reved as I was trying to make it over the top, and home...and then...CLANGCLANGCLANG...and I shut it off. Not really sustained, but apparently just enough.

 

Turns out it's a connector rod. When you pull the #4 wire that low end knock just goes away.
So, I gotta make the choice...
1: bearing job via the oil pan $1000,
2: rebuild the 3.0 $2000, or
3: swap with a low km drop in $3000.

Money is not an object...yeah right. Funds are available.
Looked briefly at a 3.4 swap, but this is my DD, so speed is more important than value. I just want it done. NOW!

What would you do, given the three choices above?
I must love my runner. I can't think of another 12 year old used vehicle I would invest so much in repairs Sorta makes me wish I'd left the darn diff drip alone!

 

I'd go #2. No but seriously, I've been looking at a rebuild at around 3500 to 4000. If you can get it done for 2000 i would go that route. Or look into the 3.4l . It's not that bad. Probably wouldn't cost anymore to do.

Either way good luck with it.

 

Man Blair, I am really sorry to hear that dude. I said before you really have some bad luck but this has really got me thinking that I'm not such an unlucky person afterall. sorry man. Oh yea, I wouldn't want you around me at the black jack table, haha, just kidding.

I would thinking you could find a rebuilt 3.0 cheaper than what you listed above, well cheaper than 3000 anyway. I would look around for that.

EDIT: oops, I just realized what you meant by "low km drop." you're in canada so you meant a good used engine. :pat: so I guess I say option 3.

 

Great new avtar!
As for luck, it goes like that. The amazing thing is that everything was great before I had that pinion seal done! After that BANGBANGBANG clutchpluswindowplusengine = $$$$$

I'm leaning toward #3.
I've wondered what this truck felt like when it was new, since it rides so well for being 12 years old. I guess I'm gonna find out what a 12 year old truck with a new clutch and engine ride like

 

Go with the rebuild.. But, I think you will find it to be more money than that in the long run..