Wiring Help
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Wiring Help
I need some help. I just recieved my Satelite Radio Tuner from Crutchfield, and I was reading through the instructions earlier seeing if I would be able to hook it up tonight, but I ran into a little snag. On the diagram showing how to hook up all the wires and everything, it shows two wires (Battery Wire, and Ground Wire) that I have to run from the tuner to their respective locations. My problem is that I have no clue how to wire something like this. It seems fairly simple, but I don't want to screw anything up.
The instructions for this aren't very clear or helpful, and this is all it says about the two wires I have to run...
It shows a little picture of a Battery and from the negative terminal it shows a wire going to the ground, and then a wire the labeled "Ground Wire (Commercially Available)" going under a bolt on the ground and connected on the other end connected to the tuner. And for the other wire it shows a wire coming off the positive terminal of the battery, going to what they label as "Car Fuse Box (Main Fuse)" and going from there to the tuner.
I'm guessing that I need to run the ground wire from the reciever to somewhere (Have no idea where); and I'm guessing that I need to run the Battery wire to the fuse box; But where do I run it to, and how do I do that?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, and if someone could, could you please explain how to wire it to a ground, and to the batter/fuse box? Also what kind of wire should I use for this? It says in the "instruction" manual that the operating voltage of the tuner is 14.4 V (11 - 16 V allowable) and the Current Consumption is 800 mA
Thanks
-Braden
The instructions for this aren't very clear or helpful, and this is all it says about the two wires I have to run...
It shows a little picture of a Battery and from the negative terminal it shows a wire going to the ground, and then a wire the labeled "Ground Wire (Commercially Available)" going under a bolt on the ground and connected on the other end connected to the tuner. And for the other wire it shows a wire coming off the positive terminal of the battery, going to what they label as "Car Fuse Box (Main Fuse)" and going from there to the tuner.
I'm guessing that I need to run the ground wire from the reciever to somewhere (Have no idea where); and I'm guessing that I need to run the Battery wire to the fuse box; But where do I run it to, and how do I do that?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, and if someone could, could you please explain how to wire it to a ground, and to the batter/fuse box? Also what kind of wire should I use for this? It says in the "instruction" manual that the operating voltage of the tuner is 14.4 V (11 - 16 V allowable) and the Current Consumption is 800 mA
Thanks
-Braden
#2
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Braden,
Hey bud, check out Corey's link here:
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech..._box/corey.htm
I've just installed my CB (http://www.4runners.org/articles/cobra) and I decided to follow Corey's advice and add an aux fuse box. That way, I'll be able to add other stuff easily and just simply tap the (+) into this fuse box. Read his write up and read mine (esp Step 2 and Step 6) too. I decided to drill another firewall hole for future wires from the cabin to this aux fuse box.
Of course, I am assuming that you will want to add other goodies in the future like a CB or maybe a winch.
I bought 2 of these. I'll be more than willing to send you the 2nd one via mail (w/ a 15amp fuse) for ... well, lemme check how much I paid but I won't ream you on the shipping like Waytek.com did! . I'll send you some butt and ring connectors too. Whats a few parts among forum friends, right?
From the battery to the aux fuse box, you'll need to buy an in-line 30amp plug in fuse, some 10 or 12 gauge (+) and possibly some (-) to make this work. See the pic under Step 6.
As for that ground (-) wire, I pulled off the driver's side kick panel, found a good bare spot, sanded it down to the bare metal, and drilled a hole. I then crimped on a ring connector to the (-) black wire and using a self-tapping screw, screwed the ring connected (-) into the hole.
PM me and I'll send you all of this for a few bucks. Or, pick up this stuff at your local parts store. But just to let you know, I had a b@#$h of a time finding this kind of aux fuse box!
Bob
Hey bud, check out Corey's link here:
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech..._box/corey.htm
I've just installed my CB (http://www.4runners.org/articles/cobra) and I decided to follow Corey's advice and add an aux fuse box. That way, I'll be able to add other stuff easily and just simply tap the (+) into this fuse box. Read his write up and read mine (esp Step 2 and Step 6) too. I decided to drill another firewall hole for future wires from the cabin to this aux fuse box.
Of course, I am assuming that you will want to add other goodies in the future like a CB or maybe a winch.
I bought 2 of these. I'll be more than willing to send you the 2nd one via mail (w/ a 15amp fuse) for ... well, lemme check how much I paid but I won't ream you on the shipping like Waytek.com did! . I'll send you some butt and ring connectors too. Whats a few parts among forum friends, right?
From the battery to the aux fuse box, you'll need to buy an in-line 30amp plug in fuse, some 10 or 12 gauge (+) and possibly some (-) to make this work. See the pic under Step 6.
As for that ground (-) wire, I pulled off the driver's side kick panel, found a good bare spot, sanded it down to the bare metal, and drilled a hole. I then crimped on a ring connector to the (-) black wire and using a self-tapping screw, screwed the ring connected (-) into the hole.
PM me and I'll send you all of this for a few bucks. Or, pick up this stuff at your local parts store. But just to let you know, I had a b@#$h of a time finding this kind of aux fuse box!
Bob
Last edited by Bob_98SR5; 03-25-2003 at 08:35 PM.
#3
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Got a test meter? If not pick one up. You should not be poking around in modern vehicles with a test light. I know someone who deployed an airbag by doing that.
Ground - Any existing bolt near your tuner module that is connected to metal will suffice. You should crimp a ring terminal on the ground wire.
Positive 12V - the battery symbol means it is hot all the time (likely to keep some settings in memory). You can tap the fuse box in the driver kickpanel (if that's where it is). There is a fuse tap device that fits over one of the fuse legs and gives you a connection point for your 12V constant. These normally connect with a 1/4" female spade connector (I can't remember what the heck those things are called) Use the meter to find an always hot 12V.
18 ga wire should be adequate.
Ground - Any existing bolt near your tuner module that is connected to metal will suffice. You should crimp a ring terminal on the ground wire.
Positive 12V - the battery symbol means it is hot all the time (likely to keep some settings in memory). You can tap the fuse box in the driver kickpanel (if that's where it is). There is a fuse tap device that fits over one of the fuse legs and gives you a connection point for your 12V constant. These normally connect with a 1/4" female spade connector (I can't remember what the heck those things are called) Use the meter to find an always hot 12V.
18 ga wire should be adequate.
#4
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Oh crap, never mind. If you did what I did, your stereo would be on 24/7 unless you turned it off manually everytime you got out of your truck. My bad.
But if you still want it, just PM me.
Bob
But if you still want it, just PM me.
Bob
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Thanks guys for the help It's starting to make a lot more sense how to do this now
I'm going to try wiring this all up when I get some free time (I just started a new job, so I'm not quite sure how much free time I'll have ) So hopefully it won't be too bad
Thanks for the offer Bob, and I'll definitely let you know if I need it
I'll let you guys know how it all goes!
-Braden
I'm going to try wiring this all up when I get some free time (I just started a new job, so I'm not quite sure how much free time I'll have ) So hopefully it won't be too bad
Thanks for the offer Bob, and I'll definitely let you know if I need it
I'll let you guys know how it all goes!
-Braden
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If your going to tackle any elecrical work DEFINATELY do as cebby suggests and get yourself a digital multimeter. They are cheap to buy. Read the manual and learn how to use it. Automobile voltage is DC so set your meter to DC and test away.
#7
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Are you looking at the instruction's made by the receiver manufacturer that is usually located in the product user manual, or the instructions created by Crutchfield? I didn't purchase a satellite receiver, so maybe your setup is different.
Looking at instructions from Crutchfield, there is a one page sheet titled "Receiver Wiring Adaptor" that shows a picture of the wiring harness supplied by Crutchfield and how it should be connected to the receiver. The Crutchfield instructions I have does not show a need to run wiring to anywhere. In other words, the Crutchfield wiring harness has a plastic adapter end that connects directly to the Toyota factory harness, and the other end has "loose" wires which need to be soldered/crimped directly to the receiver's loose wires.
There are actually two wiring harnesses I received: one has 10 wires (of which one is looped), and the other has 4 wires. The 10 wire harness is the one that has the ground/antenna/power/front speaker connections, and the 4 wire has connections for the rear speakers.
Looking at instructions from Crutchfield, there is a one page sheet titled "Receiver Wiring Adaptor" that shows a picture of the wiring harness supplied by Crutchfield and how it should be connected to the receiver. The Crutchfield instructions I have does not show a need to run wiring to anywhere. In other words, the Crutchfield wiring harness has a plastic adapter end that connects directly to the Toyota factory harness, and the other end has "loose" wires which need to be soldered/crimped directly to the receiver's loose wires.
There are actually two wiring harnesses I received: one has 10 wires (of which one is looped), and the other has 4 wires. The 10 wire harness is the one that has the ground/antenna/power/front speaker connections, and the 4 wire has connections for the rear speakers.
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#8
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BigGunna: I already have my reciever installed, what I'm having problems wiring is the Satelie Radio Tuner, it's a small grey box a bit smaller than an amp, that the satelite antenna connects to, and from there it connects to my reciever. I should probably contact Crutchfield to see if they offer any more detailed instructions on how to install it, but I think that I can do this
Sorry for the confusion.
-Braden
Sorry for the confusion.
-Braden
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I would do one of two things, the first is what i did with my XM Radio unit
1. hook the positive line into the power (battery+) line that powers the head unit. this power is switched on when the key is in ACC or ON. Your head unit and the receiver will turn on at the same tim.
2. hook the pisitive line into the remote power from the head unit. this line tells other devices to turn on (such as an amp or an equalizer) with a 12 volt line. since your receiver uses such little power, it can run off that line
I'm pretty good with stereos so PM me or email me jboggs@socal.rr.com if you need more help
what type of head unit do you have?
are you going with XM Radio or Sirus?
1. hook the positive line into the power (battery+) line that powers the head unit. this power is switched on when the key is in ACC or ON. Your head unit and the receiver will turn on at the same tim.
2. hook the pisitive line into the remote power from the head unit. this line tells other devices to turn on (such as an amp or an equalizer) with a 12 volt line. since your receiver uses such little power, it can run off that line
I'm pretty good with stereos so PM me or email me jboggs@socal.rr.com if you need more help
what type of head unit do you have?
are you going with XM Radio or Sirus?
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