I've got a '96 4Runner 4wd 3.4L with 206K miles on it. I've treated it like dirt for the past 10 years and have barely maintained it. This is why I drive a Toyota. Since ownership, I have changed the oil less-than-regularly, replaced the timing belt (at 130k), spark plugs, shocks, tires, starter (it seized while driving!), window switch...and that's about it. That said, I'd like to undertake a major service overhaul on this thing myself over the next couple of months. My goal is to set it up for another 100K, throw in a couple of upgrades, keep mileage up and to make it a little more comfortable.

Q: What would you do as part of this overhaul?

1. Oil Change
2. Spark Plugs/Wires - NGK Irriduiums
3. Oxygen Sensors (front and rear)
4. Battery - needs one anyway
5. Seafoam?
6. A good scrubbin'
7.

This question might resemble what you would do if you bought a high miles 3RD Gen. and didn't know the history, but assumed the worst.

 

Hey! I'm in the same boat as you, however I just got my truck about 3 weeks ago with 100k miles on it. I'm assuming the worst that nothing has been done, so I'm getting ready to drop some $$ into it to make sure it runs like a champ for years to come.

Don't forget the filters of various sorts: ie, fuel, air.
Slave flush
master flush
rad flush
brakes ok all around?
water pump was done when timing done, hopefully...
compression check from a shop


Just off the top of my head---ha, actually combined knowledge of everyone on yotatech...funny how the list grows so easy, eh?

I'm sure others will chime in.


On another note, as you may have noticed, this is my first post---so, maybe I'll introduce myself and the rig with pics in the off topic area soon...haha. I've been saying that for the past 3 weeks!

Good luck and happy spending!

Scott
1996 SR5 4Runner 101k

(tag coming soon)

 

flush both your diffs and transfer case. If you have a manual flush your tranny too. If it's auto I'd leave the fluid that's in there.

 

Don't forget belts & hoses. And I'd work to stay more on top of "regular" oil changes going forward. Castrol's High Mileage seems to have served mine well, as it still runs like a top and has no oil usage, but I have always changed it every 3K.

My 95.5 Tacoma (2.7L 4 banger) has 232K on it right now, is my daily driver, and I'm determined to make it to 300K before making it my second vehicle.

As mentioned, I recently had all my drivetrain fluids changed, probably for the first time. I wish I'd been more diligent about that over the past 100K, but I've been lucky. I am personally of the belief that with higher miles comes a growing need to be more diligent about observing regular service intervals. There are the little things you forget about, as well. O-rings, gaskets, bushings, things that can dry rot and disintegrate over time. I lost my A/C around 190K, and beat my head against a wall trying to seal it back up. Turns out it was just a couple of O-rings in the evaporator assembly. Also, my distributor O-ring is leaking a small amount oil. I need to get in there and straighten that out soon. So, get in there and make sure all the rubber under the hood is holding up and looking healthy.

 

I'd skip the iridium plugs as there not necessary, the regular ngk or denso's are just fine. Also the diff fliuds and x-case are a good idea to drain and refill. If your going to seafoam be sure to do that before you change the o2 sensors as some ppl have had the seaform treatment kill them. Well the front one anyhow. As has already been seen if you get on top of the regualr maintenance like regular oil changes you should be good to go. Fuel filter is definetely a must if you want to keep up decent mileage. As has been proven here time and time again they are not lifetime guaranteed. Alos if your looking to do a few mods to the baby and not hurt mileage and gain a little power the deck plate mod would be great. Members here have proven as much as a 7-8hp gain from the deckplate. ISR mod wouldn't hurt either. If you do any kind of wheelin' then a diff breather extension would be good as well. Might also want to swap the PCV valve as well. That's all that I can think of at the moment. Good luc

 

Why would you leave the auto tranny fluid in there? I would change most of everything i could. For your tranny if its an auto put some BG ATF conditioner in, or do a flush its expensive but a lot cheaper than a new tranny!

 

I would also say just leave it if it's never been done before. With that kind of mileage and never changing the auto tranny fluid it's most likely pretty beat up. The fliud will have metal shavings from normal use but this is also what keeps the tranny working efficiently. By draining the fluid and doing a full flush you get rid of those shavings and the clutch pack starts slipping because the new fluid is so clean that there's no friction from the shavings causing the slippage. I'm a bit of a noob but this is basically the idea behind it. Some people however never have problems even after taking the chance.

 

All fluids, new hoses, change timing belt, air/oil/gas/transmission (auto) filters. Wouldn't bother with the deckplate with that sort of mileage.

I'd also invest in some POR-15, clean as much rust as I could off the underside and then bust out the POR-15.

 

Why not bother with a deckplate? More power is more power... right?

 

If it's run fine as is until 200k with some improper maintenance I would be taking it easy on the engine and not be scrounging for more power. Only reason I didn't bash the ISR mod in this case is because the tube from the throttlebody to the airbox is probably a bit worn and he might as well do that mod instead of replacing it with a more expensive OEM one.

Then again it's not my truck so what's said is only my opinion and nothing else.

 

Tanto makes a good point. At this stage the truck has been fairly abused so why put it through anymore hardship than necessary. However is you are looking to gain more power as mentioned the seafoam and the deckplate are a good place to start. If you do the deckplate though look into a good filter like the truflow, amsoil or K&N.

 

interesting view on it might be to do the diagnostic type tests first - then decide how much to spend on the vehicle. For isntance, if you do have compression variations or overall low compression - you may hold off on major investment.

I'd be most concerned about the tranny. While their is a strong push to keep tranny fluid in there if its never been changed - I'm of the opinion its better to know there's a problem. but it gets back to making it another 30k (or more?) before the tranny going on you out in the middle of nowhere. Or proactively spending the cash and fixing it now (if it indeed does slip).