95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

vibration in 4 wheel drive

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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 04:23 PM
  #1  
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vibration in 4 wheel drive

I'm new to the 4x4 thing and have a few questions. I have a 94 22RE with manual hubs and when I get to 30mph in 4wheel drive there is a vibration in the front. I tried just locking the hubs and the vibration is still there but very little compared to if the transfer case is in gear. Could it be the u-joints? They don't seem to have any play to them.

What do you guys think I should try first?
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 04:45 PM
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From: Lacey, WA
what kind of terrain are you driving on? if it's dry pavement, don't engage 4wd!

however, if there's some vibration even with 4wd disengaged, my money would be on either the U-joints or the driveline may need balancing
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kyle_22r
what kind of terrain are you driving on? if it's dry pavement, don't engage 4wd!

however, if there's some vibration even with 4wd disengaged, my money would be on either the U-joints or the driveline may need balancing
Yes, it's on dry pavement, I've only tried it on a staight road. There is no vibration in 2wd. I have tried it in a field and it seemed to be OK, didn't have a chance to get up to 30mph.
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 04:42 AM
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Is it just because I tried it on dry payment?
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 06:27 AM
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Originally Posted by kyle_22r
if it's dry pavement, don't engage 4wd!
dont use 4wd on the street.
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 11:54 AM
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From: Lacey, WA
on a true 4wd truck, the transfer case locks both axles to turn at the same rate. when you get turn or spin your tires on one axle, the other has to spin at the same speed. this creates binding on dry, hard surfaces since there's not as much "give" to the surface, which can hurt your transfer case/drive shafts. as a rule of thumb, it's safe to drive anywhere with your hubs locked, but just don't use 4wd on dry pavement or other high traction surfaces
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 01:24 PM
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so I can drive around with the hubs locked, within reason atleast? If so, is there a slight vibration when just the hubs are locked?
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Old Oct 17, 2004 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 94yotaSup
so I can drive around with the hubs locked, within reason atleast? If so, is there a slight vibration when just the hubs are locked?
you can drive around with the hubs locked as long as the t-case is in 2wd
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 08:56 AM
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Now that we finally have snow I have had a chance to use the 4wd. With the hubs locked and in 2wd there is a vibration/howling in the front end. In 4wd the vibration gets worse as I get over 30mph....any ideas??

Thanks
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 10:04 AM
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I don't think it's anything to worry about. I have a 93 4x4 truck, and it behaves exactly the same as what you describe. Therefore, I use 4WD only in snow or ice, and unlock the hubs once the roads are clear and dry.
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Cardiac
I don't think it's anything to worry about. I have a 93 4x4 truck, and it behaves exactly the same as what you describe. Therefore, I use 4WD only in snow or ice, and unlock the hubs once the roads are clear and dry.

It´s not normal. 94yotaSup, do you have ADD? If yes, the problems have to be u-joints, if not, maybe it´s front drive shaft. Maybe some joint is worn or just stucked.
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 06:03 PM
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I have manual hubs. I wouldn't figure this vibration to be normal. Since the vibration is there when I have the hubs locked in 2wd but made worse when I put it in 4wd does the problem point to the front driveshaft of halfshafts?
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 03:56 PM
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I never said it was normal, just nothing to worry about. I'm sure a brand new truck doesn't vibrate under these circumstances, but time takes it's toll. My truck is solid and not falling apart, so I don't sweat a little vibration. I would though, like to know if you find the cause...
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Old Jan 9, 2005 | 07:46 PM
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It IS something to worry about. It's a sign of bigger problems to come. Go out to the truck and start grabbing your front driveshaft and CV joints. There should be next to no play in them.
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 03:20 PM
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vibration ?

Originally Posted by Adam F
It IS something to worry about. It's a sign of bigger problems to come. Go out to the truck and start grabbing your front driveshaft and CV joints. There should be next to no play in them.
I noticed I had the same vibration accompanied with a slight howling when hubs are locked in a and in 2wd.
I checked for play in the drive shaft u-joints and they seem fine almost no play.
The CV shafts however are a different story, there is very minimal up and down movement at the CV joints themselves, but there is considerable movement on the driver side CV shaft where the shaft enters the front drive housing id say about 1/8" to 1/4" in and out play, is this normal?
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 12:23 AM
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I am having the same problem hubs, joints, cv's, are all good my question is could I have screwed up by forgetting the matchmarks when removing/replacing front driveshaft ?
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 08:47 PM
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From: ANCHORAGE, AK
Bringing up thread, I'm having a simulair case with my 93 pickup ADD. It vibrates in the front when 4wd is engage and sounds a bit scary...

Any thoughts ? This is 4wd on snow terrain. .
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 10:21 AM
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From: Tacoma Washington
Stock drive shaft or after market? I had a drive shaft custom made when i sas my truck and it could only be balanced and rated for under 25-30mph or it would have vibration, i also had a transmission cross member bolt back its self out and my tranmission and transfure case were sagging 1/4 inch and it was causing a small bind somewhere and my transfure case was making a howling noice with vibration aswell, hubs locked in 4x4 or 4x2 but with hubs unlocked it didnt
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 10:24 AM
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From: ANCHORAGE, AK
Stock. Bj in front running 33'S.
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Old Dec 21, 2013 | 08:10 PM
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could be alot of things. fluid level in diff, bad bearing, bad gears, u joint, output shaft, cv, t-case, etc. some wont show wear or looseness, especialy if your just using your hand to check for play. check all the fluid levels and drain and fill properly. check for metal particles in the old fluid from case and diff. then check for sloppy parts with a small pry bar with the trans, t-case, in neutral and the hubs unlocked. if greasing the u-jionts make the problem better then they are more than likely the problem. check one thing at at time to isolate the issue. the only place you should find movement if any is at the flanges w/6 bolts that the cv axle bolts to where it comes out of the diff. i guess that some wigle here is exceptable since there isnt anyway to fix it, that ive found anyway. these are just a few tips and things to look for and check out. good luck.
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