95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners
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Valve cover gasket replacement

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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 07:31 PM
  #61  
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From: San Antonio
Just wondering what is the logic of not sealing up the entire gasket where it mates to the head with Gasket Maker?
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 04:01 AM
  #62  
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From: BC Man!
Originally Posted by jjrowe
I just finished this on an 88 4runner. Here is what you need

1. Valve cover gasket kit, two gaskets and PCV valve grommet (or source separately)
2. PCV Valve (12204-35040)
3. EGR to Intake manifold gasket (25629-65010)
4. Throttle body to intake manifold gasket (22271-650100)
5. Intake plenum gasket (17176-65010)
6. Figure out how to fix your TVV valve as it will likely be broken. There are a couple of cheap solutions. Do a search
7. Sealant of your choice (permatex black rtv or toyota FIPG)

Enjoy!

Do you mean TCC Valve? I cant find TVV Valve anywhere!!
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Old Sep 8, 2011 | 11:22 AM
  #63  
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Thanks for the write up. I just did this on my 94 and it went off without a hitch. A bit of a pita at times, but much better than forking up the money to have it done. One question what is the little guy circled in this picture? In the process i discovered that one of the hose connectors is broken and being held in place by the little hose inside of the plastic outlet
Attached Thumbnails Valve cover gasket replacement-img_0869-2.jpg  
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 09:10 PM
  #64  
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This may help save time it did for me use paint pens to mark the hoses
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 04:39 PM
  #65  
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Excellent write up and great follow up comments... Thanks to all!

I'm doing this job on my 94 4Runner and I can't seem to figure out exactly where to put the 4 beads of rtv. And when I think of beads, I think of parallel lines, but it seems they are recommending putting 4 separate blobs of rtv on, no?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 05:53 PM
  #66  
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^^ What engine?? Use the FSM link in my sig line....find the FSM for your year/engine or close to it and then look in the cylinder head section.
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #67  
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THANKS NWOREGON AND SORRY FOR THE LACK OF CLARITY... I THINK THE THREAD STARTED WITH A 3.SLOW WHICH IS WHAT I HAVE TOO.

I'VE BEEN USING THE FSM BELOW AND THERE ISN'T ANY INFO ABOUT THE 4 BEADS OF RTV (OR PUTTING OIL ON THE GASKET EITHER.) MAYBE THE OTHER FOLKS WERE REFERRING TO A DIFFERENT ENGINE... HMMM

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...68cylinder.pdf

THE MANUAL YOU REFERRED ME TO (THANKS BTW) IS STILL DOWNLOADING BUT I'LL CHECK IT OUT AND HOPEFULLY IT WILL CLEAR THINGS UP.

THANKS AGAIN!
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 06:13 PM
  #68  
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Oops! Rworegon... Sorry!
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 06:20 PM
  #69  
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
See page EG2-79, step 7:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/cylinder.pdf

Last edited by rworegon; Jun 20, 2012 at 06:48 PM.
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 06:43 PM
  #70  
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Thanks... I was looking at the right fsm, but i had skipped everything before "install cylinder head covers" on page 79.

I have only gone as far as removing the valve covers to replace the gaskets.

It looks to me like the "thin coat of oil" and the beads of rtv are referring to work on the heads, right?

I'm getting ready to walk out to the garage and put these valve covers back on and i'm planning to put a bead of "fipg" into the channel of the valve cover, press the gasket into it and then apply a thin coat of fipg to the head where the valve cover meets it.

I've cleaned the surfaces of both the valve cover and the head with brake clean and i'm not planning to coat anything with oil!

Do you think i'm on the right track?

Thanks!
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 06:49 PM
  #71  
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Oops. I corrected the page and step number above.

No fipg is needed in the channel before putting on the gasket. Just put the fipg in the 4 positions indicated on each head and you'll be good.

Cleaning with brake cleaned on a lint free rag both the head surface will be good.

Last edited by rworegon; Jun 20, 2012 at 06:56 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2012 | 11:58 AM
  #72  
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Thanks rworegon...

I never did finish my valve covers that night, but I really appreciate the help!

I just didn't look closely enough at the picture with the 4 arrows showing where to put the FIPG! As soon as I saw that it was a picture of the head and not the valve cover, I assumed it was a picture that related to reinstalling the heads... Duh!

It seems very clear now and I'm going out there to knock it out right now!

Thanks again!
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 09:47 AM
  #73  
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Preparing for this project. Does anyone have a favorite socket set they prefer? It's time to upgrade my tools before I begin this process.

I wouldn't mind investing in a nice set ($100?).
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 09:42 AM
  #74  
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puzzled....

Replaced valve cover gaskets 5 months ago on my 93 V6. started leaking again 3 months later, worse than before! Anyone have the diagram for bolt tightening sequence and is the correct torque for the valve cover bolts 4-5 ftlbs.?? Is it better to put some gasket maker (SVT) around the whole gasket area or just where the 90 degree turns are (over the cams)??? Would like to get this right the second time! thanks.
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 08:41 PM
  #75  
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HEY TASKWATCH...

I DID MINE ABOUT 4 MONTHS AGO AND THERE ISN'T SO MUCH AS A SIGN OF OIL ANYWHERE AROUND THE VALVE COVERS. I HAD TWO REBUILT LONGBLOCKS THAT CAME WITH VALVE COVERS ALREADY INSTALLED. THE ENGINE BUILDER USED RTV (GASKET MAKER) ON BOTH OF THEM AND THEY BOTH LEAKED FROM DAY ONE... RIDICULOUSLY!

LIKE YOU, I AGONIZED ABOUT THIS JOB BECAUSE IT TAKES SO MUCH WORK JUST TO GET DOWN TO THE VALVE COVERS TO START WITH! I REALLY WANTED TO USE RTV, BUT I TALKED WITH ANOTHER YOTA HEAD WHO HAD ALMOST 100k MILES ON THE MOTOR HE BUILT HIMSELF... WITHOUT RTV ON THE VALVE COVERS (EXCEPT IN THE FOUR SPOTS IT CALLS FOR IN THE FSM). HE'S NEVER HAD ANY TROUBLE OUT OF THE VALVE COVERS WHATSOEVER.

HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED TO DO... BUY FIPG (TOYOTAS BRAND OF GASKET MAKER... STANDS FOR "FORM IN PLACE GASKET.") AND DENSO VALVE COVER GASKETS. THE EXTRA COUPLE DOLLARS IS WORTH RISKING AFTERMARKET STUFF CONSIDERING ALL THE LABOR INVOLVED. THEN WHEN YOU GET YOUR VALVE COVERS OFF, CLEAN THEM UP REAL GOOD (THIS WILL TAKE A LONG TIME IF THERE WAS RTV ON THEM PREVIOUSLY!). GET A SMALL SCREW DRIVER AND CLEAN OUT THE CHANNEL WHICH THE GASKET GOES UP INTO.

NEXT, GO TO PAGE EG2-79 IN THE FSM AND LOOK AT THE PICTURE AT THE VERY BOTTOM (LEFTSIDE) OF THE PAGE. IN THE SKETCH, THERE ARE 4 ARROWS ON EACH HEAD SHOWING YOU WHERE TO PUT THE RTV (FIPG). THEY ACTUALLY REFER TO THE RTV AS "SEAL PACKING" IN INSTRUCTIONS.

PUT THE VALVE COVER ON THE HEAD AND LOOK AT THE NEXT PAGE (EG2-80) IN THE FSM WHICH LAYS OUT THE EXACT TIGHTENING SEQUENCE. IN THIS SECTION, IT CALLS FOR THE BOLTS TO BE TIGHTENED DOWN TO 48" POUNDS (OR 4 FOOT POUNDS).

THAT'S IT! IF YOU HAVE ANY TROUBLE FINDING THE FSM ONLINE, SEND ME A PERSONAL MSG AND LEAVE ME YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS. I'LL SEND YOU A COPY.

GOOD LUCK!

MIKE
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 12:36 PM
  #76  
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I opened my 22re valve cover last Sunday to do my first valve clearance check/adjustment. Now it's leaking oil out of the back. I used this youtube video as a guide. He reinstalls the valve cover at 14:45.


Can I reuse the old gasket and half moons? I heard some people say yes, some no. I'll try it since I have nothing to lose but an afternoon. I'm using the gasket kit that LC performance sells. I'm betting it's high quality.
http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-22...-p/1024057.htm
It's my understanding I should use an X pattern for a tightening sequence. I'm going to use a 1/4 torque wrench this time, rather than the squish grommet way. Should I take each bolt immediately to 52 inch pounds, or work them up to that, a few inches at a time?

I know this thread is about a V6 valve cover, but it has some good information (too bad a lot of the photo links are gone!). Thanks guys!
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Old Jun 1, 2017 | 12:54 PM
  #77  
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Whoops! I forgot this would be in the wrong section. I'll try to fix it. Hmmm... I can't figure out how to delete all this.

Last edited by joedever; Jun 1, 2017 at 12:56 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2024 | 08:05 AM
  #78  
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Pics

Why can’t I see the pictures posted in some of the instructions. I have a leak on my valve covers 93T100
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 02:20 PM
  #79  
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It all depends on 2 main things. First, how old and hard is the valve cover gasket, including the half-moons. If it's old, and not flexible, like a new one is, then you should replace it, no question. Yes, LCE is high quality, but even those can get old and hard. Also, you want to be sure it's installed into the valve cover correctly. The gasket is a T shape, and it should go into the slot in the valve cover so that it sets down in, with the cross bar of the T across the flat part on the head it sets down onto. A way I've always used to get the gasket to stay up in the valve cover while I set it in place onto the head is to put a small dab of a thick, heavy grease into the valve cover slot. It will hold the gasket in place long enough to place it down onto the head, and the squish down the slot so it doesn't cause any high spots, that can leak.

Second, there is a slight gap in the head, on either side of where the half-moons seat down in. If you haven't put a small amount of FIPG, the Toyota sealant, into each gap, so a total of 4, 2 on each side of both half-moons, you could easily get a leak of oil. The rear half-moon seems to be worse for this. it's also harder to set the rear one in place correctly, because it's very difficult to see/manipulate while placing the gasket down.

Does all my rambling help any?
Pat☺
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Old Jun 9, 2024 | 05:51 PM
  #80  
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Thanks 2ToyGuy, explained very well just not sure what the half moon things are. Truck was in winter storage 5 months and noticed the oil but the more I drive it seems to make it not leak anymore. So I’m thinking gasket dries up from sitting, but I will keep a close eye on it. Took my front grille off today, never had that much problems taking a grille off. Thanks for your service.
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