4x4CPOSEADOG

I'm bringing this old thread back to life just to say "Thanks" to YotaJunky for posting the pictures on how to change the valve cover gaskets.

I removed and replaced both leaking gaskets this weekend without any pain because of this thread. This one incredibly helps me a lot and the process went as smooth as silk. Thanks YotaJunky.

swolfe2

bump for being extremely helpful. any sealant for the plenum gasket?

jason191918

No, just new gaskets.

Ravencraft

I'm gonna bump this one back up with a question.

I'm performing this right now, used this write up and it has been a lot of help.

I had a hell of a time getting the old PCV valve out. The grommet had basically dry-rotted/hardened into a piece of plastic. As I was messing with it, trying to get it out, I accidentally knocked the metal baffle on the inside of the passenger side valve cover loose. From what I can tell it was being held in place with plastic rivets/retainers of some sort that I don't think I can salvage. There was obviously a thin gasket between this baffle and the top of the valve cover. What do I do? Am I going to end up buying a new valve cover? Should I rivet the baffle back on through the top of the valve cover and then use silicone to seal it? I'm a little stuck... help! /hijack

BoostinChick

Wow awesome write up! I may take off my upper intake to replace my PCV and TVV (I currently have a bolt in it since it's broke.) I blocked off my EGR so that definitely saves me a step or two.

Stupid noob question...should I replace the valve cover gaskets since I am in there? Or should I treat this as "if it's not broke don't fix it"?

YotaJunky

Replace them. Cheap insurance. If they've been in there for some time, they're probably baked on and hard. I can't believe how far I've come since this project.

I remember how hard it was when I first started wrenching, but I've discovered that the more things you break, the more you get to know how to use tools properly and get a feeling for how much force to apply to the tools.

UncleBob

Just wanted to say thanks for the write-up. I've been putting off replacing my valve cover gaskets for some time. The local shop wanted $300 in labor to do it, so I decided to give it a shot.

What a rediculously difficult job it is getting to the valve covers. Took me 7 hours. But a lot of time was spent labeling, taking pictures, cleaning bolts, etc.

No more leaks!

keisur

You aren't alone. took me about the same, except I cost myself another bunch of cash by overtorquing the passenger outside corner near the firewall and broke the end of the flange off. LOL. luckily the passenger side is easier access than the drivers side. So I had to buy a new cover. Come to think of it, it didn't come with a PCV grommet and I've been meaning to order one but the electrical tape wrapped around the PCV valve seems to be badaiding pretty well for now, lol.

92 TOY

88 4runner leaks oil at the back of each valve cover......saw this write up a while ago and then couldn't find it again until today.......here's the write-up that got me thinking about this again.....https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...05/index3.html

How about a shopping list??

here's the stuff I could think of right away...
Rtv sealant
valve cover gaskets
??exhaust plenum gaskets?? what are they actually called?
PCV valve??
torque wrench (inch pounds...I saw that)
acetone (got it)
courage (have some, not much)
time (have some, never enough)


Please post a complete list so I don't get caught needing something when I'm knee-deep.

This is a refurbishing project....when I figure the right way to post pictures I will.(too confusing to me).
1988 4runner.....body / frame etc....VERY GOOD.....did really minimal body work (need a pass side fender though, that one really bad). Bought it April 10th (my 13yr old son bought it really) ,had been looking for this generation 4runner for about 6 months and paid $1200 for it.Runs and drives....just not so much, it's not inspected and puts oil and the exhaust and starts smoking...

So far.........gutted the interior / painted back interior plastic / fixed "deck" light / have rear window out (that's another major PITA project) / new heater controls / new battery / new radiator / no thermostat (previous owner apparently removed it and said this had a "blown head gasket" and that's why he was selling it (yet to be actually diagnosed for sure / took out roll-bar and put it back in ..sanded and painted with primer-undercoating and black enamel(looks awesome!!) / steam cleaned seats / salvaged carpets thanks to pressure washer and degreaser and shampoo / and on and on and on.....

jjrowe

I just finished this on an 88 4runner. Here is what you need

1. Valve cover gasket kit, two gaskets and PCV valve grommet (or source separately)
2. PCV Valve (12204-35040)
3. EGR to Intake manifold gasket (25629-65010)
4. Throttle body to intake manifold gasket (22271-650100)
5. Intake plenum gasket (17176-65010)
6. Figure out how to fix your TVV valve as it will likely be broken. There are a couple of cheap solutions. Do a search
7. Sealant of your choice (permatex black rtv or toyota FIPG)

Enjoy!

samtheman

To YotaJunky and related threads:

Doing this to a stock 96 4Runner (In Laws Vehicle) as of January of 2010.

Started when a Prompto garage noticed a severe leak by passenger side valve cover.

Thanks for taking the time to post this invaluable information, it certainly helped me get over the intimidation factor, and I had a Haynes manual as well.

But...There is nothing like a clear digital picture.

This job, while not impossible, is no picnic, especially with a dirty engine in a cramped, cold garage with a LED work light that keeps falling off the "magnetic" base.

As I write this, I am halfway through the rebuild of the upper assembly. (Valve covers on, new spark plug wires and plugs, plenum and wiring and hoses have to go on.)

Some thoughts:

1) Murphy's Law applies here, I have been set back from everything from the wrong gaskets/parts etc. to having spark plugs and valve cover bolts fall into dark and dirty crevices. If you can, check your parts prior to turning a wrench or ratchet.

2) Spark Plug tube seals cost me time, mostly due to ignorance on my part.

I was never able to get a clear picture of how they went in to the covers, because the old ones were so disintegrated.

I thought I needed gasket material remover, and didn't realize that the outer ring of the seals were NOT part of the valve cover, it is really hard to tell where the valve cover ends and the seal ring begins.

Got them out by using a tiny flat blade screwdriver and gently prying, they pop right out.

I ruined a set by installing the seals in backwards to the cover.

I figured out the correct orientation by slipping the seal down an exposed tube with the valve cover off, one way it glides, the other way it resists. This becomes clear when you test fit.

To put it another way, the convex raised edge of the seal faces you while the concave side faces the cover.

Once I got that figured out, I was still damaging the seals hammering in, even with the metal tab clear of the ring in the valve cover.

This was solved by using a 30MM socket to guide the seals in, this saved hours of time and helps the seal guide in.

Use a piece of wood to keep from damaging the socket and make precise taps, the seals will go in, but too much force and they will break from damage.

See here..

3) COUNT on the plastic electronic wire protectors by the manifold and fuel rail to break in to brittle shards.

If you can unplug the injector wires, great, I didn't want to risk breaking them as they are dry and brittle as well.

You will have to move these wries countless times to get the valve covers in and out.

Instead if re-taping this useless plastic, I simply bought new wire protectors (that flexible, circular stuff with ridges) and covered the wires.

Anyway, thanks again!

(Found out about that trick on another forum..)

B4Runner

Correct me if I am wrong, but that is the PCV valve right there on the valce cover, rigt?

YotaJunky

Yes, that's it.

johntm77

I just successfully completed replacing both valve cover gaskets for the first time. These posts on yotatech definitely prepared me for what I could expect and it went really smooth. The factory service manuals instructions on where to put rtv will not work on all engines. Mine was done to spec the last time and it started leaking in a couple months. I put up with it for over a year and finally fixed it myself. I had to put RTV completely around the whole head and a small bead in the valve cover itself. Normally I would not do this but seeing how the factory instructions seem to apply to my engine, I had to go a step further. Several months later, it's still completely dry.

cr@ves4wheelin

If I didn't see this thread I prob wouldn't have attempted doing my own valve gaskets. Got it done in about 9 hours or so. Thanks guys.

Sal

Ok I have to bump this one for a question...

I cant for the life of me figure out why my intake plenum wont lift off. All the bolts are out, and all the hoses/fuel lines I can see are disconnected, it has resistance on the rear passenger side. Any ideas?

YotaJunky

tap it lightly with a rubber mallet and see if it dislodges it.

Alaskaflyer

I know this is an old thread, just starting this job on the 3.4, anybody have any pictures of this procedure with the 3.4?

Thanks

Gary

J2F42C

Gary,

here is a link that I found pretty helpful while helping a friend. You would think that since the supercharger is one piece, you should be able to remove both pieces as one. If you can, grab a camera and take some pics of the cams, etc. when you remove the valve covers and post them.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...beware-149594/

Just make sure to wrap all existing electrical wires with good electrical tape before removing anything. Those wires have gotten brittle over the years. Just take your time with it.

70elcoss

I have a question, I'm going to be replacing my valve cover gaskets this week because they are pouring oil,

Should I get oem gaskets or is something like fel-pro good?
And does each valve cover have a pcv valve?