I have one torn boot and the other three are really cracked, they all need to be replaced... I took it to the shop and they quoted me $500 to replace all four...

I would do it myself but I'm getting my art school portfolio together and don't have time...

am I totally getting ripped off or what? it seems like most of that cost is labor?

 

Most shops are $60 per hour or more. Figure, slow, coffee drinking, cig smoking, fat guy so that sounds right.

I helped a friend do on side of his 4runner and it took about 3 hours from start to finish......................that includes time for the pizza break.

 

For that price you can buy new cv axles. I don't think this type of labor and parts cost more than $150 I know 4 cv boots from Toyota are about $50.

 

That seems about right for 4 CV boots & labor...I had one of mine torn and was quoted at $300-- but the service advisor had it replaced for free said it was still under warranty--lucky me... most shops in my area charge from $65 to $95 an hour on labor--parts extra...

 

Duct tape the snot out of them... wait til you have more time (though keep how long you wait within reason)... and then do it yourself. The two kits you need to do it yourself can be had for as low as $70... perhaps lower (I'm not as familiar with 4Runner parts). I'm a big advocate of DIY, so that's why I offer that opinion first.

On the other hand, $500 from the shop doesn't sound like a rip-off, especially if it is a Toyota shop.

 

$500 doesn't seem too unreasonable for a shop to do it. If you don't know the tricks it does take a while. My goal the next time I change out my CV axle is 30 minutes, but I've got some tricks up my sleeve.

My advice is to unlock your hubs, don't go 4wheeling (especially to the dunes) and wait till you have time to do it yourself. The toyota rebuild kit is about $30 online and you'll need 2 of them. It's not hard to do, just messy and time consuming.

 

Ok.. I called them and told them not to do it and that I'd do it myself..

now what is this rebuild kit and where do I find it?
Also what about the high-angle CV boots I saw awhile ago? I searched but didn't find any threads about them.. but I know I've seen a photo.. any feedback on them?

 

after reading around .... it seems that it might be better and easier to just replace the whole axle... anybody want to chime in about that?

 

I got this price from TOR a long time ago. I ordered one kit from him, but also got a local dealer to almost match the price. My local place originally wanted something like $40 but they dropped the price to less than $30

04438-35022 $23.42 each

One kit comes with two boots, clamps and the special greases. So, like I said if you want to fix both axles you'll need 2 kits. If this is the first time doing a CV change, it'll take you at least a couple hours per side, if not more. Also, make sure the CVs themselves are still good...no pitting, rusting, or weird noises.

Alternatively, you can get new CV axles with a lifetime warranty from some autoparts stores.

 

I just last week replaced both of my axles. They were $66 each at CarQuest, lifetime guaranteed, even the boots. They came complete, ready to bolt in, pregreased even. The first time you do it it's a bas***rd. I've done it a few times now and I'm better at it. It's so simple, but it's not easy. First trick is to go ahead and unbolt the sway bar end links. Another is to go ahead and take the bottom shock bolt out, get it out of the way. Then remove the 6 nuts from the inner end of each axle flange. Pop the dust caps and remove the bolt with the washer from the end of the shaft, remove the 6 nuts, pop out the cone washers, and remove the drive flange and then the snap ring from the axle end. The axle will just slide out to the inside.... not!! I put a jack under the bottom ball joint shank and lift it - with the sway bar disconnected you can get it high enough to slide the axle out. If you don't the dust cap hits the lower arm and it won't come out. If I just put the jack under the lower arm itself I can't swing the control arms high enough - after a certain point the truck just lifts up.. The other hard part is just getting the inboard end off the 6 studs and pivoted up and past the flange. But it does come out. When putting them back in, be careful not to pop loose the inner cap from the tripod joint housing and let the grease out. Did that once...

One more thing - if you don't have a set of good stout jackstands, after you pull the flange off the outer end, put the tire back on! Same for other side. Then you don't have to worry about dropping the truck.

 

what's the difference between ABS and non ABS cv shafts?? cause kargen and autozone both asked that..

 

With front ABS many axleshafts have a sort of flange at the outboard end, with notches all around it, that the abs sensor reads (it magnetically counts pulses as each notch passes the sensor) to know if the wheels are turning. Wasn't an issue for me because my truck was never available with front ABS. (Only rear ABS, and it doesn't work, gonna remove that light bulb one of these days...)

 

how do I tell if I have front ABS or not? will it say in the owners manual or is there an external way to tell?