URD kit thermostat question
#1
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URD kit thermostat question
I'm installing the 170 deg thermostat that came with my URD fuel kit and I notice that it doesn't have a jiggle valve. Isn't a jiggle valve important? Should I drill a small hole in the flange?
#2
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I've always thought so, and the mechanic I did my timing belt with thought so when I pulled a new thermostat out of a box and it didn't have one (so we didn't put it in).
Some random words about on the pin:
http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/thermostat.htm
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/pre...m_failures.htm
Some random words about on the pin:
http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/thermostat.htm
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/pre...m_failures.htm
#3
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by midiwall
I've always thought so, and the mechanic I did my timing belt with thought so when I pulled a new thermostat out of a box and it didn't have one (so we didn't put it in).
Some random words about on the pin:
http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/thermostat.htm
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/pre...m_failures.htm
Some random words about on the pin:
http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/thermostat.htm
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/pre...m_failures.htm
#5
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Funny this came up just a week or so after I did my thermostat. When I pulled out the thermostat and it had no jiggle pin I wasn't sure what to think. Looking back on it, a 1/8" hole might be a good solution. As it was, I installed as'-is (With no jiggle pin).
EDIT - anyone have a comparison - say the 160F TRD thermostat?
further edit - interesting note. Instructions say to put the jiggle pin at 12:00. I pulled my and found it at 6o'clock (factory).
EDIT - anyone have a comparison - say the 160F TRD thermostat?
further edit - interesting note. Instructions say to put the jiggle pin at 12:00. I pulled my and found it at 6o'clock (factory).
Last edited by Bennito; 06-22-2006 at 11:38 AM.
#6
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Originally Posted by midiwall
I've always thought so, and the mechanic I did my timing belt with thought so when I pulled a new thermostat out of a box and it didn't have one (so we didn't put it in).
#7
Registered User
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Good links Mark, thanks. Were you able to find a 170 deg thermostat that has a jiggle valve or are you running the stock Tstat?
Originally Posted by Bennito
further edit - interesting note. Instructions say to put the jiggle pin at 12:00. I pulled my and found it at 6o'clock (factory).
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#9
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by midiwall
Yeup... all the instructions I've ever seen says that the pin/hole needs to be at the top.
#10
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
My 2001 FSM says to install the T-stat on the 5VZFE "with the jiggle valve downward".
http://aarc.epnet.com/application/9316/9316.htm
- "Engine and Engine Overhaul"
- "Engine Mechanical"
- "Thermostat"
- "Removal and installation"
- Fig 8: "If so equipped, the thermostat must be installed with the jiggle valve at the top".
- Also, point 4 in the text. "Some thermostats use a jiggle valve that must be installed at the top or 12 0'clock position"
#13
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by mt_goat
My 2001 FSM says to install the T-stat on the 5VZFE "with the jiggle valve downward".
I think the TRD thermostat is 160 degrees.
#14
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Thread Starter
Gadget replied to my e-mail so I thought I would pass the info along. He said hundreds of people have installed the thermostat "without any issues at all" and "there is no reason to believe you will have a problem with it. You can drill a hole in it if you want, but it is not necessary."
#15
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Gadget replied to my e-mail so I thought I would pass the info along. He said hundreds of people have installed the thermostat "without any issues at all" and "there is no reason to believe you will have a problem with it. You can drill a hole in it if you want, but it is not necessary."
It's of course your decision on the information source you'd like to follow, but I know which way I'd go.
#16
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Originally Posted by midiwall
Well, the general consensus of the rest of the 'net is that having the hole there is a good idea.
It's of course your decision on the information source you'd like to follow, but I know which way I'd go.
It's of course your decision on the information source you'd like to follow, but I know which way I'd go.
Anyone know for sure what temp the TRD T-stat opens at?
Last edited by mt_goat; 06-25-2006 at 04:26 AM.
#17
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The sole purpose of the "jiggle" valve is to help drain the block when you drain the coolant.
Without it, it will take a little longer to drain the block. That is it.
Gadget
Without it, it will take a little longer to drain the block. That is it.
Gadget
#18
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Gadget
The sole purpose of the "jiggle" valve is to help drain the block when you drain the coolant.
Without it, it will take a little longer to drain the block. That is it.
Gadget
Without it, it will take a little longer to drain the block. That is it.
Gadget
#19
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I usually pull my thermostat anyway when I drain the block during a coolant flush. I am surprised at some sources stating the jiggle valve being down because airlocking can be a pretty serious condition on some vehicles. I am not sure I totally agree with Gadget on the fact it is for block drainage only in all cases, but I think it is safe to say that as long as you had a jiggle valve or have put a small hole in there for air relief/coolant drainage then you should be fine. I have mine in at 12 o'clock, but I see that the FSM has it in at 6 o'clock on the 5VZ-FE yet they call out within 15 degrees of 12 o'clock on the 2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE.
Only thing I can come up with is that the thermostat is located down low on the 5VZ-FE (it connects to the inlet from the radiator) and on the 2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE the thermostat is up high (they connect to the outlet hose going to the radiator). So on the 5VZ-FE it's for coolant drainage and for 2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE it's for air relief? I am not sure I can come up with a rationale for this....
I'd have to defer to the FSM on that one.... :pat:
5VZ-FE
http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_.../ther/inst.pdf
2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE
http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_.../ther/inst.pdf
Only thing I can come up with is that the thermostat is located down low on the 5VZ-FE (it connects to the inlet from the radiator) and on the 2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE the thermostat is up high (they connect to the outlet hose going to the radiator). So on the 5VZ-FE it's for coolant drainage and for 2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE it's for air relief? I am not sure I can come up with a rationale for this....
I'd have to defer to the FSM on that one.... :pat:
5VZ-FE
http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_.../ther/inst.pdf
2RZ-FE and 3RZ-FE
http://www.deserted1.com/FSM/Repair_.../ther/inst.pdf
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 06-26-2006 at 10:53 AM.
#20
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
I usually pull my thermostat anyway when I drain the block during a coolant flush. I am surprised at some sources stating the jiggle valve being down because airlocking can be a pretty serious condition on some vehicles. I am not sure I totally agree with Gadget on the fact it is for block drainage only in all cases, but I think it is safe to say that as long as you had a jiggle valve or have put a small hole in there for air relief/coolant drainage then you should be fine.
If we're talking air bubbles, then it would make sense to have it up high - the bubble will want to float on the coolant.