Tuning URD A/F Ratio Calibrator?
Aug 2, 2006 | 10:58 AM
#1
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From: Oklahoma State
Tuning URD A/F Ratio Calibrator?
Are any of you guys tuning the base map Gadget sends these out with or are you using it as is?
I see the box needs to be opened to get to the serial port and before I stuff it away behind the dash I'm wondering if I should plan on it needing tuning later.
I see the box needs to be opened to get to the serial port and before I stuff it away behind the dash I'm wondering if I should plan on it needing tuning later.
Aug 2, 2006 | 11:07 AM
#2
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Are any of you guys tuning the base map Gadget sends these out with or are you using it as is?
I see the box needs to be opened to get to the serial port and before I stuff it away behind the dash I'm wondering if I should plan on it needing tuning later.
I see the box needs to be opened to get to the serial port and before I stuff it away behind the dash I'm wondering if I should plan on it needing tuning later.
No room in your glove box? Maybe you could just use an extension cable from CompUSA to go from behind the dash to some nondescript area you could plug into.
Aug 2, 2006 | 07:45 PM
#4
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yeah I just didn't want to open it up for the extension cable if it doesn't need it. Anyone using it the way it ships?
I'm planning on using it in its stock configuration for a weekend trip after I get it installed, but once I get gauges it's on! I'm going to tune it for high (above 5000ft) and low altitude and load maps as I need them... Have you found an incredible mounting spot that just can't be passed up, even though it isn't accessible?
I assume midiwall or Gadget will jump in eventually...
Last edited by mastacox; Aug 3, 2006 at 06:59 AM.
Aug 3, 2006 | 03:51 AM
#5
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From: Oklahoma State
Originally Posted by mastacox
Have you found an ibcredible mounting spot that just can't be passed up, even though it isn't accessible?
I'm having a hard time getting hold of anyone at URD, anyone else having that problem?
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Aug 3, 2006 | 06:21 AM
#8
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From: Oklahoma State
That's the FTC not the A/F ratio sensor calabrator. I was pretty confused at first by those 2 too. Here's what I'm talking about: http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p..._id=1230100028
Here's a pic of it with the lid off:
Here's a pic of it with the lid off:
Aug 3, 2006 | 06:45 AM
#10
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From: Oklahoma State
Originally Posted by mastacox
I see, so it does the job of the split second unit on narrowband sensor, but for a wideband sensor application... Hmmm 
Aug 3, 2006 | 06:52 AM
#11
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yeah, well a little more than the SS unit on a narrowband sensor, but you got the idea. If your new 4runner is a 99 or newer you may want one of these too.
So I'm just getting the URD Calibration unit with buit-in O2 signal conditioner...Hopefully i'll be able to tune the engine to where I want with a simple narrow-band A/F sensor and EGT gauge.
Aug 3, 2006 | 07:27 AM
#13
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From: Oklahoma State
Originally Posted by mastacox
I might CONSIDER getting a wideband sensor for later on, but I get the feeling with a little seat-of-the-pants 
intuition and my secret weapon Yotatech, I'll be fine.
intuition and my secret weapon Yotatech, I'll be fine.
Aug 3, 2006 | 08:02 AM
#14
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Originally Posted by mt_goat
That's a different sensor, the sensor this calibrates is the front "O2" sensor from the factory and in 99 Toyota started using a A/F ratio sensor unstead of an O2 sensor for the ECU to adjust the A/F ratio. You are talking about a 3rd sensor put in for a A/F ratio gauge.
I'm not sure if you saw this thread, but anyway:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...3&page=2&pp=25
Originally Posted by midiwall
(damn, you picked up on that...)
Yeah, I was sucked into buying an LM-1. $350 later, I can say I think I've used it three times in the last 18 months. I also have the add-on 5 channel datalogger, that's another $80.
Yes, it's "cool" to see your real A/FR in an instant, but if you're in closed loop, the A/FR will ALWAYS be 14.7:1 or migrating to that point thanks to the ECU. So, you're looking at a $350 tool to help you tune at WOT. Fair 'nuff. But if you have an EGT, and once you feel the effects of leaning out up top, then you can do a pretty good job without it. I said this in another thread recently, but I can get pretty close to 12:1 up top just with the EGT and my ear. I've validated my settings a couple of times with the LM-1. The effect of being lean or being too hot at WOT is pretty dramatic.
The datalogger is cool btw, but it's not really worth $450 (LM-1 + logger).
Yeah, I was sucked into buying an LM-1. $350 later, I can say I think I've used it three times in the last 18 months. I also have the add-on 5 channel datalogger, that's another $80.
Yes, it's "cool" to see your real A/FR in an instant, but if you're in closed loop, the A/FR will ALWAYS be 14.7:1 or migrating to that point thanks to the ECU. So, you're looking at a $350 tool to help you tune at WOT. Fair 'nuff. But if you have an EGT, and once you feel the effects of leaning out up top, then you can do a pretty good job without it. I said this in another thread recently, but I can get pretty close to 12:1 up top just with the EGT and my ear. I've validated my settings a couple of times with the LM-1. The effect of being lean or being too hot at WOT is pretty dramatic.
The datalogger is cool btw, but it's not really worth $450 (LM-1 + logger).
Aug 3, 2006 | 09:18 AM
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From: Seattleish, WA
(hi)
fwiw, I'm here on the thread but didn't have a lot to say since I don't run what Dale's asking about.
I've thought about running one, and me being me, I would most certainly not leave the stock tuning alone, bt that's just me being the eternal tinkerer.
fwiw, I'm here on the thread but didn't have a lot to say since I don't run what Dale's asking about.
I've thought about running one, and me being me, I would most certainly not leave the stock tuning alone, bt that's just me being the eternal tinkerer.
Aug 3, 2006 | 10:48 AM
#17
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From: Oklahoma State
Originally Posted by midiwall
(hi)
fwiw, I'm here on the thread but didn't have a lot to say since I don't run what Dale's asking about.
I've thought about running one, and me being me, I would most certainly not leave the stock tuning alone, bt that's just me being the eternal tinkerer.
fwiw, I'm here on the thread but didn't have a lot to say since I don't run what Dale's asking about.
I've thought about running one, and me being me, I would most certainly not leave the stock tuning alone, bt that's just me being the eternal tinkerer.
BTW I found some guys using this over on CT: http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69202
Aug 3, 2006 | 11:32 AM
#18
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From: Seattleish, WA
Originally Posted by mt_goat
What year ECU do you have Mark? Wouldn't you need a 99 or newer ECU and O2 (A/F) sensor to run this?
That thing is a rebranded SplitSecond ESC1:
http://splitsec.com/products/esc1/esc1ds.htm
The key thing that URD doesn't mention is on that Split Second page:
"Versions available for 1V and 5V range EGO sensors"
BTW I found some guys using this over on CT: http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69202
Aug 4, 2006 | 11:41 PM
#20
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From: colorado
I just moved the numbers over on my a/f calibrator tonight. I'm running about 13.5 at 3psi in closed loop. I moved the numbers over two columns. I'm only getting about 5psi open loop at 5000 ft. though, so i think 13.5 at 3 psi is good.
