This is the 3rd time I am posting this, and it seems like the post gets deleted after some minutes. I will keep trying.

So I had a long weekend, and decided to install the Tundra/OME suspension setup on my 99 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, stock tires, 4runner. I measured the height of the car before doing anything and got approx. 35" (+/- 1/8") from the ground to the fender well. This is the setup that I installed:

Front:
-Tundra TRD coils (Toyota of Dallas)
-OME N91s shocks (Toyota of Dallas)
-(2) 3/8" Top-out spacers (thanks Andy)
-Extended studs (4wheelers)
-Tapered diff drop (thanks Steven)

Rear:
-OME 891 coils (Toyota of Dallas)
-OME N86 (Toyota of Dallas)
-Panhard drop bar from Sonoran Steel
-Extended Brake Bracket and SS brake line

The install went semi-smooth, and maybe because I don't have much experience with SUV/trucks, and I usually went down not up. The biggest pain was getting the front shocks in. I had to call my buddy to help me with prying, etc. I dropped the lower arm (4 bolts) but still it was a pain. In the rear trying to get a socket on the top shock bolt - man a pain. The new OME rear shocks don't have any flat surfaces to tighten them, so I just turned them by had, and it seemed to compress the yellow spacers fairly well. I still did not change the SS rear brake line, because that will entail bleeding the system. I tried for 2 days now, loosening the front diff. bolts, in order to install the new ones. In this process I broke my ratchet, cracked a wrench, and busted my knuckle. I had to go get another wrench plenty of WD-40 and finally got them loose. Will put the spacers in today.

My first impression of the ride is good. Things I have noticed. More wobble than stock, tires are squeaky during harder turns. Have not taken it off-road yet.

I got home after 20 miles of driving and found that both inner CV boots were spraying grease. Quick inspection showed that they don't appear to be torn or cracked but are leaking by the (smaller) shaft clamp. Is this normal? Any suggestions what should I do? Any suggestions on what new clamps to use?

Secondly, I parked on a flat surface to measure the height. With a 1/4 tank, 31 psi in all tires, everything else stock and the car empty I got measurements anywhere from 36 3/4" to 37 7/8". (I will post exact numbers tonight, since the first post got deleted, and now I am in work and don't have the exact numbers). I remember there was also about 1/2"+ difference between left and right side for front and rear. I am little worried why it is not all equal, or within 1/8". One question, which I was not so sure about. I assume the left side is the driver side, correct? Also rear OME springs did not have a left/right designation only A and B? I assumed A is left (driver), is that correct?

I will post exact numbers tonight, but if anybody has any suggestions, comments on this, that would be great. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the update. I have consider this swap for a while but I read positive and negative things about this swap. I am really interested in what you have to say. My set up is a TRD extra cab pick up. Front should be the same set up. Let me know how you like it on road and off after a week or two.

 

You posts are probably getting moved to the Newbie section

 

Thanks Matt, I think my post title was 'incorrect' that is why they got deleted. I hope this one is OK.

Sun Diego, will let you know how things are rolling, after I get these issues resolved.

 

The biggest thing that catches my eye is the "wobbling." This does not sound good. Can you elaborate further?

This lift is supposed to give you great ride comfort and good off-roading performance. The wobbling seems to be contradictory to these two reasons of going w/ this lift.

 

you changed the front geometry and basically, you need an front-end alignment. more than likely, that's where the wobble comes from.

a tilt from one side to the other is common w/ OME. you can get a 10mm trim packer for the rear and put it on top of the shorter coil - between the coil and the conical bumpstop - and that should fix it for ya.

you need to take some zip ties and zip them ont the rubber CV boot just inboard of the metal crimp. it's a common problem, but NOT one that you should ignore. the zip ties are an easy fix that won't damage the boots and will keep the grease where it should be.

 

Hey, Andy thanks for the reply. Yes, I did notice one of the OME coils to be shorter, and found that one of my original coils was shorter as well, and that's how I decided where they go. This made the OME 'A' coil go on the left side and 'B' on the right. Is that correct, and why would one be shorter?

I like the zip ties idea, I just did not think they were strong enought, and wanted to remove the original metal crimps and install something stronger.

I will get an allignment after I will install the diff. drop spacers. Should I wait unill the suspension settles some?

 

yeah, the ome coils are made for the prado - an east-asian cousin of the 4runner. everyone has lean issues w/ the ome rear springs, and there's only one solution- a spacer. luckily a single OME 10mm trim packer is about $10 or so and it's easy to put between the coil and the conical bumpstop.

just zip tie them. trust me. don't take the crimps off. they just need a little extra help - not full-blown replacement.

drive a few hundred miles on the road, but more importantly, go flex it a little offroad and then go get an alignment. go in the shop when the tech is doing the alignment and make sure that they torque the pass rear and driver front cam w/ a cheater bar. the design of the front suspension will allow those two bolts to loosen over time w/ severe duty. get those loose, and you're alignment is shot. they have to be SUPER tight - like 100+ ft-lbs of torque as a MINIMUM.

 

large work gear style hose clamps work well for CV boot clamps too....

 

OK, thanks for all of the replys, I just got home, and was able to put on the zip ties, got the ones with the metal stopped and also installed the diff. drop spacers. I will have to talk to Steve but even after cutting out the required portions of the skid plate and pounding it down, there is still interferance. I can get it on, but it will still touch the diff. brackets. So anyways, here are the true measurements.

Front:
Left: 37 1/4" Right: 36 3/4"

Rear:
Left: 37 3/4" Right: 37 1/8"

Andy, you mentioned the trim packer for the rear, how come nobody else had this problem (I did not find the need for a trim packer on any of the previous posts ). I am worried that I might have installed something wrong. I am more worried about the front. That is a half an inch difference between left and right on the Tundra springs with one spacer, any ideas? Is this caused by the difference in the rear? Any help appreciated.

By the way, I will take it out to Anza for a little test, either this or next weekend.

 

hmmmm... are you sure that you put the tundra coils on the correct sides?

most if not all people w/ OME rear coils have a lean to one side - it's fixed w/ a trimpacker. they usually have a lean to one side up front as well w/ the OME coils, usually about 1/2"

 

I have placed the 48131-AF100 coil on the driver side, and the 48131-AF090 on the passanger side. Are there any other markings on the coils which would indicate which side they go on?

Also, I have just got to work, and found out that I am still getting grease out of inner CV boots. I think the original clamp is semi-loose and adding a zip tie will not compress the original clamp well enought. I will search for a tough clamp today and will replace the original ones.

Also, will the trim packer in rear possibly aid with the situation in the front?

 

the original thread about the "Tundra TRD Lift" has the correct color code for driver and passenger sides. one coil will have two yellow paint marks on it. the other will have one blue and one yellow.

 

Ok, I have the correct coil on the correct side, Y/Y -left Y/B -right.
So where does my 1/2" in the front come from?

 

wait until after you break them in and have an alignment and then take another look. as crazy as it may sound, the alignment can change the front geometry enough to change the height.

 

Agreed...the alignment made all of the difference with mine. Not only did it correct the \ / of the tires but it evened everything out height wise.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I will take it out during the weekend and then will get a good alignement. I know it is all off right now since only going 10mpg on pavement, straight, my tires make occasional noise. Should I get the trimpacker for the rear before alignment as well or they don't allign the rear and I could just take care of that later?

 

mine did the same thing...i wouldn't drive too much until you get it aligned.

 

just get the front end alignment. you can add the trimpacker later. they can't do anything w/ the rear - there are no adjustments for the rear.

 

dont use wd-40, that dones no good in loosening up rusty or stuck bolts, go get PB Blaster, that is made for breaking up the rust, not wd40 which is a water displacement.