wow ... I have a 5 speed maybe it is a little different. I do have a problem though.. I got on it a few times no problem ..well the last time the idle dropped way down I thought it was weird now it does not pull hard under boost it is like a surge then stops .. I feel it is spark plugs and called ngk I have a set of 2 colder and a set of ngk wires coming to me today . I hope it clears it up.
micahel

 

micahel,
Did NGK tell you to go TWO steps colder? What are NGK wires like? 8mm? 6 mm? Did you ever look into Magnecor? I think they are the best wires made, but I have not checked as to whether they make them for our vehicles. LMK wht your plugs look like when you pull them. Did you torque them down when you installed them?

 

Magnacor does make wire for the 3.4. They do not fit very well. I have them and if I ever buy another set I am going with OEM for the fit and finish.

There is no way any ECU mods will change the shift crispness in the tranny. It is not like other brands. The ECU only controls three solenoid valves, two for shifting all the gears and one for the clutch.

The valves are either open or closed and nothing else. The firmness of the shifts is all hydo mechanically operated and the electronics have nothing to do with it. Line pressure is controlled by the pressure regulator and the only thing that alters that is input shaft speed and the pressure regulator cable attached to the throttle body.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

Don't know what to say Mr. G, it is not my imagination playing tricks on me? From what you are saying, the Toyota is different than many, or most, American car transmissions that allow changes in shift firmness by electronically changing line pressure, via implementation of Jet, Hypertech or B&M programmers.

 

That is right, it is different then other trannies. It is all hydro mechanical and the only thing the ECU does is tell it when to shift by activating the two shift solenoids for all the gear changes and the solenoid for the clutch. There are only three wires going into the tranny and each goes to a solenoid. Line pressure is controlled by the internal mechanical regulator with some feed back from the throttle position cable.

All this is why getting the valve body modified is so damn important to improve the shift responce since it can not be done electronically.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

Very interesting. Thanks
Have a good day.

 

HI
Ngk said it would be a good idea to go colder I chose 2 steps based appon Gadgets research. Ngk said irridium plugs would work better with the s.c.
The wires are about the OEM size I believe 6mm may be a touch thicker ,but they still clamp into the factory wire holder .
The top end under boost spudder went away with the plugs it pulls nice to redline now. my mpg on the hwy is a little better or may be it is the colder air helping .
The only concern I have is when the 7th inj starts to work before it was like a shot of nos now it is gradual it could be my imagination because it still pulls hard .
I am thinking fuel pressure so my next mod will be the warbro pump.

 

PAXAM -
I know what you mean about the 7th injector performance. My experience was the same, but now it is _very_ smooth ... right up to 5200rpm which is where it shifts automatically at WOT. The installation instructions call for one step colder plugs, but say nothing about gapping them down. Did you use the stock gap or go narrower?

 

Hi
for now I have the stock gap . It is interesting that your 4runner is doing the same thing . I thought I broke something.:pat: I personally feel that the warbro fuel pump will not hurt and only can help.
Michael

 

Gas mileage is still 2-3 mpg lower city driving than before the 7th injector installation. 15-16mpg vs 18-19mpg

I hope to gather some new Dyno data over the holiday week.

 

So-o, I'm sitting here thinking whether or not I should install a new fuel pump ... maybe a WALBRO? So I do a little "search" ing and come across this quote from UNDERDOG RACING:

"If you are not planning on increasing the size of your injectors it is unlikely that installing this pump will be of any benefit to you and we suggest that you do not waist your money. The stock pump is capable of flowing all the fuel that those little stock injectors can flow. Also, if you are planning on running a pressure increasing Fuel Management Unit (FMU) this is not the pump for you. This particular model 190 LPH pump will suffer from reduced flow over 60 PSI. If you are going to run a FMU that is going to increase the fuel pressure above 60 PSI, then you should seek out and purchase the “High Pressure” version of the 190 LPH pump. That will maintain flow as the pressure increases. UNDERDOG will not be carrying the high pressure version, or any FMUs as we feel that approach is an ineffective “Band Aid” fix and we want no part of it."

Since I have those "little stock injectors" along with one additional high-flow (60lbs/hr @ 43.5 PSI) I can only surmise that I am still not a candidate for the WALBRO 190 LPH pump?

 

You have increased your total injector capacity. You are now capable of flowing much more fuel then the stock pump can handle. You no longer have just the stock injectors.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

Gadget, I've read this whole thread (took me 2 hours) this is my first post here on yotatech, I've been wanting to get a s/c for some time now, after researching and reading this thread I see that it runs lean, have you developed the kit for single cat v6's? I bought my tundra here in va, in 01' so I would assume it is single cat, but i'll check tomorrow. Let me know if you already got the test vehicle, thanks

 

If it is the 3.4 V6 we can help you, no question.

If you have the V8, you have 4 cats, and we have not started tinkering with the V8s just yet. Soon....

Gadget

www.URDUSA.com

 

No, it's a v6..... I just couldn't imagine driving an automatic, plus I don't really do much towing/heavy loads.
Also off-topic, do you think the stock clutch is up to the task of taking this power level? Your injector kit is making me really think about getting the s/c, if I were to get it I would definatley get your injector kit, as I see it as a necesity, pinging is the last thing I want, how hard is it to install? Think you could help me install it (if I decided to get the s/c and your injector kit?)
thanks!

 

I pulled the stock NGK BKR5EKB plugs this morning. My read on them is that they were showing a slightly hot/lean condition; the electrodes were clean but the ground straps had tiny white specks on them from the tips back about 1/16”. The porcelain insulators were a very slight pale pink color.

I installed the NGK BKR6EKPB (Stock#3452) plugs and gapped them to .035” instead of the .032” that is recommended in the TRD 7th Injector instructions. I’ll pull a couple in a couple of months and see how they look.

I am still debating on the WALBRO pump as well as the valve body upgrade. The 2-3 shift lag bothers me and I assume that the valve body upgrade will tighten that transition up.

 

It would be nice if you could run a wide band unit to see what the mix really is all the time. Also figure out a way to monitor the fuel pressure to see what is going on there.

Gadget

www.URDUSA.com

 

The hardest part of the install is dropping the tank to swap out the pump. If you can handle that and can install a car sterio then you can do this kit. The FTC wiring is much simpler then doing a car sterio.

Gadget

www.URDUSA.com

 

Well when it comes to electronics, im pretty scared of messing something up, how fool proof are your instructions? I think I will get the s/c along with your kit. Also do you think the stock clutch can take the added hp? if not what are my options out there as far as clutches?
thanks

 

What year truck and model?

Gadget