So it looks like the best mixture would be a water methanal mixture for the best heat absorption. Thanks for the info!

Chris

 

I do not think the term plug and play really applies here. If you want that you need to spend the $1300 and get the lesser kit.

You will have to splice the controller into the ECU harness. It is my intention to have the controller pre-loaded with a start up program and you will have the ability to tweak it if you choose or need to.

I doubt that you will need to make any adjustments for altitude. The ECU has the capability for doing that.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

Just in time for Christmas man! Let us all know when you are ready to sell and put me down for one for sure. At least there is some good news this week.

Todd

 

Be careful though Chris, I have no idea what kind of damage you could do to the veins inside the blower. Water has a very high absorbtion rate so the thermal stresses will be much greater when you use water versus another fuel (you saw that it absorbs almost 10X the heat gasoline does). I would just hate to see you destroy a good S/C by trying it......but of course I am dying to know how it comes out.

My gut feeling is you will probably be ok as long as you don't get too overzealous with the injector and it would be very tough to model even with sophisticated thermal software.....will likely be just a trial and error type of development.

 

I don't know... methanol is highly corrosive. Ethanol is a better choice in that regard, and it's still a better heat conductor than gasoline.

 

Gadget, what gap do you use on the tripple electrode 2 step cooler plugs? I recently installed them and stayed with the stock gap, about 30 as I recall. I read somewhere that you want to reduce the gap with forced induction and trying to get all three gaps similar on 6 plugs...yikes! Truck seems to run fine, I was going to pull a few for inspection after about 1K miles to see how they're holding up. Thanks for the insight!

 

I have always used the stock gap which I think is .043".

The reason for reducing the gap is that the compressed mix it more densed in a forced induction and it is harder for the spark to cross the gap and fire reliably. This is on a problem on the supercharged 3.4. The stock ignition is completely capable of firing with the stock gap and supercharger.

I change plugs every 30,000 miles and there is considerable errosion causing the gap to open much more then when they were put in so, it can fire a pretty wide gap with the supercharger.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

I might be able to help you out. I will be moving back to dc metro next week. I have a 2nd generation supercharger, that isn't even intalled yet (would save you time removing it). But I am lifted SAWs up front and spacers in the rear. E-mail or PM me. thanks

 

Do you know if you truck is Cali spec or not? Does it have two cats?

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

I don't know if it is cali emission or not. I pulled out the orig. window sticker and it say "50 state emissions" so should I assume that it is dual cat?

 

I'll bet is has the air/fuel ratio sensor on it.

I need one that does not.

What area are you movnig to down here? It will take just seconds to verify what it has.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

Moving to silver spring, Md. Driving down on the 26th. If I crawl under the rig and snap a pic will that help?

 

No, I don't think a picture will help. I am almost certain that it is going to be the new type of sensor. My scan tool will tell right away by looking at the O2 sensor activity.

The good news is that our kit for your truck is going to be cheaper then the other kits and it should not need any touch up on the program. The newer sensor type trucks are very powerful with their control over the mixture. It always stays dead on the money unless you run out of fuel.

Do look me up when you get down here.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

I just got a tracking number from my parts guy so my injector kit is on its way. woohoo!

I am trying to find a Dyno shop on the Cape, but so far I have had no luck. The nearest one is in Worcester, MA and that is too far for me to go --- or at least I do not want to drive that far. Do any of you MA guys know of a shop close to Cape Cod? I want to do a before and after Dyno test.

BTW, I may plumb the vacuum line into the ISR tube. although no one has yet to tell me the reason for the change. I will not change the plugs or the OE gap (.042") ... unless Magnuson says I have to. I will not use the TRD thermostat unless hell freezes over.

I am also wondering what would happen if the stock injectors were now changed out for 305's?

I think the next TRD development to keep our ears to the track for is when TRD makes some revisions to the ECU tuning, and you know those SOB's will do it as the reports start to come in from the test mules.

 

Yeah, I'll to research it a tad more, but I've read that the water, methanal injection is the best for detonation reduction, bu as far as corrosiveness, I have read nothing yet. We'll see what happens.

Chris

 

You just may need to replace the rubber parts more often (methanol dries out rubber like crazy) or find silicone substitutes for the critical areas of operation. Water and methanol will most certainly cure almost any detonation problem.

 

As you do your research, (Google turns up a lot of info), be sure to spell what your're looking for correctly.

"methanol corrosive" turns up a couple of more hits than "methanal corrosive".

 

keep us updated if it makes a diifferance I will get it .... I am concerned about fuel pressure also with a 7th inj would the psi drop a little?

 

So would ethanol/water mixture be the least corrosive?

Chris

 

Chris,

You are planning on spraying water into the S/C? Will it just evaporate or what?