danthemanx07

The vehicle: 1998 4runner 3.4l auto 4x4 147k miles

Problem: I have been having this recurring transmission irregularity that is proving tough to diagnose. I can crank up the car and drive around anywhere under 55mph without any problem. BUT... I commute on the interstate 50 miles one way each day. My problem comes after making my interstate section when I am back on surface streets from light to light. Here when I am stopped, there is no longer enough pressure (if that is the way to describe it) to move the vehicle forward at idle. Then as I apply throttle, I get no response until somewhere around 1300-1600 rpms when the car shudders a little and jerks forward.

So this happened a few times and then one day I get an check engine light. I drive to the nearest autozone to have the code pulled and it is a " P0773 Shift solenoid E" malfunction.

I am no mechanic so I take it to a transmission guy my regular mechanic recommended. After a dya of driving he can't get it to do what I was describing. He furthermore tells me the following (basically):

"Well, we cant get it to do what you were talking about and it is really hard to narrow down fault codes because one may trigger another and really there isnt anything in the transmission to go bad and cause a code. Usually if there is a transmission fault code showing there is something more significantly wrong. Your fluid looked ok, maybe a change would be in order, only a slight burnt smell, but nothing too bad. I would try an additive, like a lucas oil product, maybe you will get another six months out of it, but just know you have a replacement coming since you have a lot of miles on it and it is acting up."

I listen to all this and hang up and have to wonder if this guy was serious or just wanted to get me to write a fat check... An additive? A lot of miles (147k)? Maybe got another 6 months? There arent really any solenoids to go bad??

Any ideas? I checked the FSM for the solenoid e codes, and they lead you to a solenoid (go figure) that should be checked for proper functioning. I am going to be following the manual and conducting the resistance checks on this end tonight.

Supposing the whol tranny is toast, here are the possible routes I was considering:

1. Transmission man can source a used tranny with 88k miles on it for $800 and have it installed for about $1400.

2. I have a line on a tranny and transfer case combo with 120k miles for $250. I can then has said transmission dude install for $500 or so.

3. I can pickup the $250 tranny and t-case and attempt an install myself in the driveway.

So is an auto tranny with 120k on it bad news?? There are plenty of threads on here documenting transmissions lasting well over 200k. I am not sure the one with 88k is worth the extra $550 for only about 30k miles difference. How hard is it to get a transmission install for a novice DIY'er? I can turn a wrench, but this would be my most ambitious undertaking. If the time involved is no issue, is it worth $500 to pay some fella to put it in?

Thanks for the input. This is a tough one for me to bite the bullet on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

daniel

gdutch

I had a similar problem with my transmission shortly after I bought my 4runner with about 130k on it. Basically, it refused to shift out of overdrive at highway speeds unless I hit the button on the shifter to over ride it. This was because I damaged the shift solenoid and burned up some of my clutch packs by towing a U-Haul with my O/D on (newbie mistake). Anyway, cost about two grand to have my tranny rebuilt, and several days, but that was at a very good shop.

If the clown you took it to says there's nothing to replace in the transmission, he's an idiot. If you do use a shop, it should probably be somewhere else, because that guy obviously doesn't know what he's talking about. Is your fluid still red? If it's even slightly burned you should get it flushed at a good shop and see if that remedies the problem. A decent place will have a flushing machine that heats the fluid up to its operating temperature in order to fully remove all of the nasty bits and ATF.

I can't speak to the difficulty of replacing a tranny, but never having done something that big myself, I would say don't tackle it without a dependable mentor to help you out. It's a major component of your vehicle, and not something to be taken lightly. If you do it on your own, just make absolutely sure you know what you're doing.

Best of luck, and let us know how everything turns out!

just call me smithy

iv had that same jerking, i would start by changing your fluid and the filter, some times the small fine metal particles temporarily clog the small fluid passages in the valve body. and your Toyota has an on board computer, if its saying one of your solenoids are malfunctioning i would check them if your problem continues, i ended up changing two of my solenoids and haven't had a problem seance, also if you search theirs info on how to change and test them. good luck

jammer1313

your tranny should be an a340f (if my sources are correct). there are three(3) solenoids,
2 shift and 1 lockup

if you have a code for solenoids, change the solenoids.

see about a better mech also

i have over 200k miles on my 86 4runner

BigBallsMcFalls

this. solenoid codes are usually ...the solenoid. yes there are diagnostics and whatnot you can research on techinfo.toyota.com, but

if the ATF is fresh, it is the solenoid gone bad. most likely anyway...

jammer1313

yaeh, I wish icould diagnose mine better, i've changed solenoids and believe my problem is in my TCM, works fine except for my OD and lockup come in to early and cant cancel it, and no codes, gonna install a shift controller and manually shift it.

jinos

Just change the solenoid. I had the same issues with mine and did a whole tranny flush + filter this morning and runs great but didn't have a code. It's actually not that hard.

1) Drain the fluid and unbolt the pan.

2) Once the pan is off you can see all the solenoids below around the filter.

I was asking my mechanic and said it's easy to change. IMO better than buying a new tranny first.

jinos

BTW I used synthetic as reccomended from Yota. My 98 has 199K and still runs great.

brian2sun

I agree that the problem is very likely a bad solenoid and I recommend replacing all of them. Your mechanic is probably wrong, the shift solenoids go bad in these a lot so I wouldn't trust his knowledge if it were me. If the tranny is shot, I think #1 is your best option if you can get it with a warranty, $1400 is a good price IMO. No reason to get a new t-case and I personally wouldn't want to start over with a used 120K tranny, so I say no on option #2 and 3. Installing yourself is something you'd have to decide to do or not obviously, but I wouldn't bet on it being simple and easy.

jinos

If you can change spark plugs or do your own brakes then you can do the solenoids IMO and I was fiddling with it today.

danthemanx07

I tried to check on the wiring resistance last night. Found that kind of strange. Using my multimeter, I didnt get a resistance reading whatsoever from the ECU. Not sure if it is the multimeter or what. I was getting resistance from the wiring harness at around 25-26 ohms. So, I guess I am good there.

I suppose at this point I am going to roll the dice and order the solenoids. I called Toyota of Dallas for their pricing. Just the #3 solenoid (which they couldnt tell me whether that was the Shift Lock or SL solenoid or what) was $180+shipping with the discount. They also wouldnt get to me until mid next week either.

Looking on some other forums, I found this kit :http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=0

I would prefer the Toyota parts, but... I called these folks and they answered on the first ring. I talked to them about their kit, and they commented thst this particular kit is one of their most commonly sold products. The havent had any negative feedback on it really either and have had no fitment irregularities. They are also in AL, about 6 hours from me, so if I order this morning, I will have it tomorrow. This would set me up perfect for the weekend. I think for now, I am going to shoot for this before I go ripping out the transmission.

One questions though. Should I flush the tranny or anything before installing these?? Thanks.

jinos

Just drain the tranny fluid, but before you do look into seafoam tranny cleaner. After the cleaner, drain and remove pan. I would also recommended changing the filter inside since the pan is open. Plus the part is cheap. You can see the solenoids on the side after the pan removal. Hope this helps and good luck

danthemanx07

Yeah, I was really concerned when he told me "there really isnt anything in there to go bad". The $1400 was a price to put in a used tranny with 88k miles. A rebuild was going to be over $2,000, not sure on warranty. Most of the used tranny's I have found have had more miles on it than that...

danthemanx07

Follow Up

Got the fluid drained. It looked decent. Many thousand miles on it since it was changed, so the color was consistent and no burnt smell. No metal shavings or anything of the like in the bottom of the pan. Filter was dirty, but I kind of expected that. Nothing else notable really.






I ordered a kit as I said above with the three solenoids. They went in like a snap once I got the correct brackets on the correct solenoids. The old ones were pretty dirty looking. Got the new filter on as well.




Now here is my hiccup. Went to cleaning the pan and removing old gasket material. I noticed the finish, black paint, on the inside of the pan was blistered throughout. Not sure what would have caused this, but it is pretty bad. The paint flakes off with some rubbing with a paper towel.





I dont want to risk it and put it back on as is, so anyone got a suggestion for a coating for the inside of the tranny pan??

brian2sun

That's a strange one. Maybe sand it and re-paint it?

jammer1313

Never seen that before, never seen a pan painted on the inside in my past years working for AAMCO transmissions (scratching head)... I would bead blast the pan, clean it real good and put it back on.

The coating in the pan can only be a protective coating against corrosion is the only thing I can think of IMO

J2F42C

That is weird. Were the magnets still inside the pan when you pulled it?

Get a solvent such as acetone and try and wipe it down. If you have success, let it air dry, wipe it down with a non lint rag if you were able to get it clean and put it back on.

mt_goat

I took a pic of my A340F pan while it was off (from a 2001 Taco). I never paid much attention to the coating inside but it does appear to have a black coating of some kind.



The thing that really stuck me weird was the rust inside, never seen one rusted up inside like that. Makes me wonder if it was in a flood or maybe a really deep water crossing. Do you know the history of it?





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BigBallsMcFalls

coolant leak

mt_goat

Did yours get rusty from your coolant leak?