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2000 Tacoma V6 3.4L Automatic 218,000 miles - Owned since 11,000 miles.
First off, i know very little mechanically speaking. Anything i know I've learned recently trying to resolve this headache.
My truck had been sitting for one month while i was out of town. Previous to this was driving amazing. When i took it for the first drive it was engaging hard and within a few trips was shaking, grinding and going out of gear at stops. CEL came on with P0770 code (shift solenoid 'E') I took it to my usual mechanic and was recommended to Trans shop. Trans shop said my torque converter was toast and sold me on torque converter and rebuilt tranny. Repair was done in mid December. Ever since repair truck hasn't been quite right. Drove funky out the shop and code comes on shortly after. I've taken back to trans shop 3-4 times now and it is driving worse as time passes. Mechanic has told me he has done everything he can or feels he was obligated to do. Other shops diagnoses would beg to differ and all seem to point back to his work.
The current symptoms are CEL code P0770. Truck drives AMAZING on freeway. Issues arise when slowing down on offramp, at slower speeds and mainly at stops. At stops i'll get the vibrating, harsh shutter, RPMS bouncing and truck stalls out. Starts right back up. Two of the times it had it's melt down the A/T oil light has come on- I've never seen this in the 15 years i've owned truck.
Seems sluggish on steep hills at slow speeds. I have fluctuating RPM when i start truck, intermittently and at stops when it is going in to melt down mode. Seems to be shifting relatively 'OK'
Things I and other mechanics have serviced or checked into are-
Testing and cleaning MAP, TPS, IAC, Throttle body. Found and fixed 2 torn hoses. Toyota diagnosed that Trans mechanic should have replaced valve body if oil had as much metal in it as he had claimed. They said it was either that or that Trans mech had done something wrong while working on it but gave him the benefit of the doubt and leaned towards valve body. Trans mech replaced valve body and called me to say it was driving like ˟˟˟˟. Next shops diagnoses- ''when hooked to scanner felt as if torque converter was locking up and bogging down motor'' They also told me my tranny fluid was absurdly over filled. All other shops have said they could not give me a rock solid diagnosis unless we opened everything up and would cost major buck$$$
My experience with Trans mech has been completely infuriating. Due to my mechanical ignorance i took his word and thought maybe it was something else and that he had really done what he was obligated. Thats why it has dragged out for so long. It should be covered under the warranty but i don't want him to touch my truck. I must point out a few of his RED FLAGS- 1- When i first picked up truck the 4x4 light no longer worked, could not shift from 4WD to neutral or 4 low without HARSH grinding. 2- His words ''I've been having a lot of headaches with Toyotas, seriously considering not taking them on anymore'' 3- Asked me to do some research on what the issue could be. Ummm.. I just paid you 2300 and you want me to do what? 4- Misadjusted throttle cables and the obscenely over filled tranny fluid.
Now, I've been advised to take legal action. I wanted to ask the 'experts' -you guys- what you think about the situation or if there are possible over looked issues that could be the culprit? Thoughts? Advice?
Thank you and condolences if you've made it through this Novel.
"When the code P0770 is set in the Powertrain Computer, it means that the Powertrain Computer or PCM is seeing greater than a 200 RPM difference between the rotational speed of the Torque Converter and the Transmission Input Shaft. When the Torque Converter Lockup Clutch engages, there should be a 1 to 1 ratio between the Converter RPM and the Input Shaft RPM."
What it really means is the code has nothing to do with the tranny internals if the oil has always been clean. It really means the the PCM has detected "slippage" between the engine crankshaft and the tranny input shaft shaft. What's there? The TCC is there. The pcm has detected slippage while going on the highway while in 4th gear with the TCC(torque converter clutch) in lockup mode. Basically, lockup mode is slipping and it shouldn't. With the miles you and I have on it.....and the tranny oil always being clean, the chances are that the lockup clutch in the TC is slipping. Time for a new TC. Similar to changing out a clutch on a manual. More pics of that operation will be coming I bet. You know me and a camera.....
Just got through replacing the TC in my '93 Pickup 4WD with 3.4L swap. It has the original A340H. It wasn't too bad, took a couple hours dropping the trans. You have to disconnect the swaybay, cooler lines, crossmember, exhaust (you may not have to - my crossover pipe is under the pan b/c downtube headers), driveshafts. I don't have a tranny jack, but I just used a floor jack and a milk crate. The 33's and 2" body lift/1" susp lift gave me plenty of room underneath. I took it on a test drive and it drives much better but threw a pending P0770 code. It has brand new fluid, filter (stock & magnefine), external cooler, and temps stayed under 160 during test drive on highway. It shuddered going from stop into drive, then makes some whirring noise when coasting down to a stop while it's downshifting.
I found a good deal on a TC from Autozone online. It was a Precision of New Hampton brand TC. Only $110 after discount and free shipping and core return. Listed stall speed is 1800 RPM which I think is lower than stock. Next step I think I'll replace the solenoid. May need a new tranny though.
If someone can do me a favor, I'm having trouble getting the right fluid level since I had to bend the dipstick tube to clear the headers on the 3.4L swap. Now the notches don't line up. Anyone have any idea on where the low and high fluid levels correspond to the pan level so I can get the right fluid level? I'm tired of guessing b/c auto trannys don't do well guesstimating fluid level.
OK Snoyota....went to O'reillys and picked up a Torque Converter.....drained the oil in the tranny just now and also the transfercase.
Also, stopped in at Toyota and picked up a rear main and front pumpseal.
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If someone can do me a favor, I'm having trouble getting the right fluid level since I had to bend the dipstick tube to clear the headers on the 3.4L swap. Now the notches don't line up. Anyone have any idea on where the low and high fluid levels correspond to the pan level so I can get the right fluid level? I'm tired of guessing b/c auto trannys don't do well guesstimating fluid level.
kooter-
I cannot help you because I have an A340F but surely somebody with a 340h can give you some dipstick measurements.
Agree that you should get a solenoid kit for your 340h model. Tranny itself is likely NOT the cause of the 770 code.
Rear driveshaft out of the way.....Splines were marked, of course, so that the same exact splines are re-engaged upon assembly.
the gear handle assembly next....something like 8 little 10mm bolts and ip jiggles out.
Front driveshaft out of the way, Remove the 8 bolts that hold the transfer case to the tranny and
slip it off. Those 2 top bolts took just the right 12mm short socket with a flex extension....
Here they are. FYI the transfercase as is here weighs 72.0 pounds.
Almost to the point of seeing that torque converter.....
The 2 top bolts that couple the bell housing to the engine block were interesting to get to....you can see the 1 bolt up high(17mm)on the driver side of the bell housing.
I used a 33" extension and they came off like butter....
The 6 cute little 14mm bolts that hold the TC to the flexplate were easy.
I saw it in the FSM that you just turn the crank a little bit and you can get those 6 bolts off.
But I found that un-necessary....just used the 14mm wrench to turn the flex plate and re-positioned the wrench in such a way that the bolts loosened up.
This cross-brace came off with 4 bolts
And the Harborfreight scissors jack did a wonderful job of supporting the tranny.
BINGO
The flex plate.....
And the business end....127.4 pounds without the TC in place
I spent 9 hours getting to this point....I know....I am really slow but I was unsure so I looked 5 times before I did anything.
Man if all the vehicles in Michigan where that clean it would be so much easier to work on them. Even the frame shines yet (unless it was repainted then of course it shines ).
Anyway, good work on the trans, if you were working solo 9 hours isn't bad. A 2nd person can make things a lot faster, big time when dropping (or putting up) the trans. Dropping of the transfer case was probably a good call, personally I would have probably skipped that step unless there wasn't enough room to get it down with it attached, but I'd also have help dropping it down too.
I helped my dad swap an engine out of a FWD car, books called for something nuts like 36 hours and we did it in 2 days ~16 hours. That car was a nightmare and had no room to work at all. Don't remember what it was exactly, just was some domestic that a kid blew up. 3.4L DOHC seems to ring a bell, had a huge wide intake that took up the whole engine compartment up on top.
kooter-
I cannot help you because I have an A340F but surely somebody with a 340h can give you some dipstick measurements.
Agree that you should get a solenoid kit for your 340h model. Tranny itself is likely NOT the cause of the 770 code.
I disconnected the solenoids and drove it with the exact same symptoms, so I've isolated the problem to inside the trans and not electrical. I'm really fed up with the AT and going to swap in a manual R150. Good luck with yours and nice job on taking pictures along the way of the TC replace. I never removed the oil pan when I did mine. I just grunted through it with a 14mm and had just enough room for a wrench and a shallow socket. UGH!
I disconnected the solenoids and drove it with the exact same symptoms, so I've isolated the problem to inside the trans and not electrical. I'm really fed up with the AT and going to swap in a manual R150. Good luck with yours and nice job on taking pictures along the way of the TC replace. I never removed the oil pan when I did mine. I just grunted through it with a 14mm and had just enough room for a wrench and a shallow socket. UGH!
wow wow wooowww....I see you replaced your TC already......so why not get the solenoid kit and give it a go? Disconnecting them like you did I don't know if thats a good TS technique.....
It does say that diagnosing it as a bad tranny is a common mis-diagnosis
The very nature of why P0770 was flagged was because of a large rpm DIFFERENCE between the engine crank and the tranny input shaft.....and the transmission internals are not included in that diagnosis. The only item between the crank and the tranny input is the TC.
Got the TC in place....drained and refilled the engine oil....the tranny atf....and the transfercase gear oil. I installed 3 new seals...the rear engine main.....the front tranny seal....the rear tranny seal. I used a cork gasket this time for the engine oil pan instead of the FIPG because I think my leak was coming from the oil pan FIPG surface. It's always good to make sure you fill everything that you drained the oils out of before going for a test ride...and that I did do. It's also good if no parts are left over...nuts bolts brackets. Only had this left over when I was "done".
The extra bolt looks to just be a simple harness holder. Probably not super needed, but should be possible to find/install w\o taking everything apart, but my guess is that it was external to the trans.
With everything back together is all good to go now? Based on the description of the problem, it seems the lockup in the TC could be a good thing to blame, but I don't even know if that trans has a locking type of TC. Another possible diag thing that could have done (based on the T100 repin project I just mentioned), there is a single pin on that truck for the lockup option for the AT harness, pulling it would disable locking, but allow for the overdrive gear to be used. If all else is good and the ecu didn't freak out about the TC lockup not being hooked up, logically it shouldn't throw codes or overheat if it is in fact the locking part of the TC. Of course this is all in theory, I've never had to diag AT problems like this before, and have only ran into 1 bad trans in a toyota (worn out W56 MT that still functioned fine, just bearings shot).
I'm not too worried about that bracket but will look for the spot for it just the same. The A340F trannys do have a lockup...they have a clutch plate of sorts That can slip with enough use and abuse. I'd cut mine open to look at that clutch area but I have a $20 core that I'm gonna get later this morning.
This Torque Converter was purchased from O'reilly for 139.99 plus 20 core......part number Pro-King T059....
Update-
Replacing the TC has fixed my heat issue and no more P0770 light. I accelerated onto the highway and set the cruise for 70 and tranny temps stayed a very stable 129 degrees(per scangauge2) in lockup mode. No code was thrown as is usual when I accelerate on the highway. Good for another 200k miles
Oh ya....I upgraded to Valvoline synthetic ATF for even better "wearability".
Further update.....now when doing this kind of thing it's best to write it down in a little book
My 2001 Taco....bought in July of 2006.....
71,300 miles....................................new oil/filter Quacker 5w-30///new anti-freeze///new tranny fluid and filter////new air filter
73,600............................................ .tranny oil again////budbuilt skid added
77,658............................................ ..fresh atf
78160............................................n ew Valvo 10w-40 oil
79347............................................r ear diff removal and tighten CBPL added Mystik 85w-140
80540...........................................ne w spark plugsBKR5EKB-11 sprayed Gunk inj cleaner in intake
83400...........................................15 w-50 Mobile syn and oil filter
85380...........................................ne w AF////tire rotate/////left CV boot sealed
87778...........................................ad ded distilled to battery////added .5 qt to oil
88160...........................................ne w Neverlast Battery
88300............................................n ew BFG tires////new Pepboys brake pads
96500..........................................15w-50 oil and new filter
102449..........................................1. 5 cans of fuel inj cleaner sprayed in the intake(gunk brand)///////1 can of Seafoam in gastank
107700 .......................................oil changed Mobile 10w-40 only....same ole filter this time
118800 .......................................Mobile One 10w-40 only////////new air filter
120400........................................cryo treated spark plugs
126000........................................new Autozone rotors and pads/////added water to battery///new gas cap to pass emissions
126700.......................................80W-90 Walmart gear oil for rear diff....old oil looked ok.
126900........................................Sear s alignment
129500........................................Mobi le One 10w-40 and filter////new OEM AF///new radiator fluid(1 gal SuperTech)///new tranny atf 4.5qt Valvoline///New Bridgestone tires
132300...........................................N ew Walmart battery again(MAX1)
133200.........................................new rear Bilstiens shocks////frame reinforcement at rear c-channel section
136800.......................................new oem cv boot kit from dealer for the pos IFS cv's
138000...........................................t ire rotation
138300..........................................oi l change 5 qt MobileOne 10w-40....same ole filter
140300.........................................sea foam to gastank
141300..........................................se afoam to gastank
145900......................................air filter checkers
146000.......................................tires cross rotated
148700..........................................ne w autobone wiper blades
152000.........................................new used tires from Stace put on
152850.........................................Mob ile One 10W-30 and oil filter
155000.........................................New oem sized radiator and Hayden 679 ext tranny cooler
160700.........................................Mob ileOne 10w-40 oil only, no new filter
164900........................................air filter blown clean with compressed air
164900.........................................Blu e Devil oil treatment added
168600........................................tire rotation
169300...........................................M obileOne 15w-50 oil change only/////PepBoys wheel alignment
172100.........................................new POS Walmart battery 24F....old one blew a cell
175700........................................REMO VED IFS stuff in prep for SAS project////MobileOne 10w-40 and a new rear sump oil pan installed.
177000........................................Auto bone wiper blades again
November 2014......SAS.....SAS.....................Truck officially goes under the knife for the SAS project
July 2015..........................................Back on the road with SAS!!!
177800.........................................rea r diff oil change to 75W-140 from O'reilly
178200.........................................new lower hose gate#21186 3" cut off end
August 2015..................................break-in trip to Hilton New York
182800..........................................Pu rple Ice rad treatment
184000..........................................48 8 rear G2Gear, re-use original bearings
185200...........................................n ew AF
186000...........................................n ew rear driveshaft carrier bearing////new double cardan joint
187500............................................ ..Amsoil 10w-40 plus Amsoil filter
188272............................................ Amsoil rear diff 85W-140 2qt
188400............................................ tire rotation
193700...........................................n ew oem thermostat and anti-freeze
195600............................................ new plug wires oem/////new NGK plugs oem///AF O'reilly///
196698...........................................n ew tranny oil Valvo syn 4 qt
198400...........................................w iper blades Oreilly
199124............................................ NEW TORQUE CONVERTER!!!! ProKing T059 Oreilly///new solenoid pack Amazon///rear main seal///front and rear tranny seals///
transfercase new oil 1 qt 85W-140 syn///eng oil 5 qt MobileOne 10W-40////tranny oil about 12 qt syn Valvoline atf
wow wow wooowww....I see you replaced your TC already......so why not get the solenoid kit and give it a go? Disconnecting them like you did I don't know if thats a good TS technique.....
It does say that diagnosing it as a bad tranny is a common mis-diagnosis
The very nature of why P0770 was flagged was because of a large rpm DIFFERENCE between the engine crank and the tranny input shaft.....and the transmission internals are not included in that diagnosis. The only item between the crank and the tranny input is the TC.
solenoid kit.
Wow, great pics and updates, ZUK.. That's what I like about yotatech. So much good info. Glad you are shifting smoothly.
I have found conflicting causes of P0770 codes for Toyotas. I went through Toyota's flowchart to troubleshoot, and my P0770 wasn't a hard code but only pending. However, even with solenoids bypassed trans is basically inoperable now. Long story on my truck, but basically I crashed into another car on a highway, was spitting ATF all over the road, and without thinking, drove it off the highway into a parking lot, maybe 100-200 feet? But I think that was enough to burn the clutch packs. So truck sat for almost 2 years, finally got around to putting in a 3.4L, and trans is toast. I give up. searching now for r150.
I had a 2nd gen 4runner that was 2-3 qts low on trans fluid, it was slipping badly in drive and low range and had to get it though a mud pit (I thought it was spinning tires). Ended up checking fluids afterwards, filled it up and it was good to go, no problems since.
I think it really depends how much slippage there was, and how much you rev'ed the engine, in my case i kept it around 1200 rpm since I was just crawling slowly though the mud. Generally you can pull the trans dip stick and smell the fluid (assuming you refilled it), it should smell burnt if the clutches are slipping and making a ton of heat/wear.
If you was closer to Michigan (or want to make a vacation trip) I have an A340F (from memory) that orientated from a 99 4x4 Tacoma with the 2.7L engine, pretty sure only difference if any would be the bell housing. I also have a few R150's that are the older style (came with the 3.0L in front of it). Could do a fair price on either one, the auto has been tested/driven around the yard, the R150's I have in mind haven't, but manual transmissions are easy enough to test w\o an engine hooked to them (I call it the drill test). If you have a 2wd, I also have a R150 old style 2wd, and a 2wd A340H (22re bell housing from a 95 pickup, pre-tacoma).
Put about 130 miles on the highway and performs beautifully. No Codes.
None of the 3 seals I replaced appeared to be leaking so I know they were not the cause of my irritating leaks at the bottom lip of the bell housing. It appears that I did a crummy job last time of using the FIPG rtv stuff on the oil pan....this time around I used an autozone cork gasket. It did the trick....not a trace of a drip in hundreds of miles. Rubber would probably be better but the cork did the trick.
02-13-2017, 08:19 AM
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searching now for r150.
