So today I was doing my timing chain and came across a problem. 22RE

The crank gear has its dimples going up while the cam gear has its dimples going down.

It seemed that all the directions i looked at had them going both up. Can someone help me figure this out?
Thanks,
Alex

 

i'm not sure i understand what dimples are. Are you talking about the little round imprint on the gear that is where you line up the silver links on the chain?

 

yea and i just figured it out. its a 2:1 ratio for crank:cam which is equal to a 1:.5 ratio, thus if i turned the crank around once the cam sprocket dimples would be heading upward while the crank sprocket dimples would be too.

Thanks

 

So there was a 1/4" by 1/8" piece of plastic missing from the drivers side rail, the mount part. Should I remove my oil pan and take it out?

Also when setting it, if the crank is about 1/8" right of TDC, is it okay if you tap the cam gear about the same distance to get the chain on right?

And last, should I use regular oil or should I just start using synthetic right away or what? Any opinions, good/bad results?

Thanks

 

If that is all that is missing, I would prob not worry about it. The pick up screen will catch it. That said, it is very easy to drop the oil pan on a 4X4 SOLID AXLE (IFS sucks to do). 85 and up use a FIPG seal (form in place gasket). I used the ultra seal silicone (grey) to do the pan on my sons 85, and it worked great. Don't use so much that it squishes out giant goobers.
You can use the cork gasket for a 20R if you don't like silicone.

I prefer to turn the crank so it is at TDC, but yes, you could offset the cam gear about the same. Just be sure to check it by rotating the engine over twice by hand (to get the cam to turn once) and check that the marks are on. Needless to say (I hope), it is easier to turn engine with plugs out. It it stops turning (like something is bound up) STOP and recheck the marks.

If you want sythetic, go for it. The chain doesn't require break-in.

Make sure you use sealer (good silicone ultraseal, or permatex #2) at the corners between the front cover and the block. Those are the "high leak" areas after doing a chain without pulling the head, or lowering the pan. I have loosened the next couple of bolts back on the pan each side to make it easier to install the front cover.

 

Is it okay to turn the engine by hand to check for marks and stuff when there is no oil in the engine

 

ya, it wont hurt anything

 

How do you torq the crank pulley bolt to 130 ft lbs when it spins with the pully?

 

Put a strap wrench on the pulley and wedge the wrench handle against the bottom of the passenger side frame rail. Then torque the crank bolt. If the strap wrench handle is too short, slip a piece of pipe over it.

 

How long did this take you?

 

Ehh like a relaxing 5 hours. 3 hours If i tried.

One thing that made it a pain was that i didnt set it to TDC on compression stroke, i just did it on the exhaust stroke. So take your valve cover off than set it to TDC and the divots on the cam gear up. Woulda saved me an hour and a ton of brain mass.

And follow Yoda's tips too.

It aint hard so give it a shot.