When I bought my 4runner it had 145k on it, now it is at 153k and I'm not sure if the timing belt has been replaced. How can I check to see if it needs replaced? Is it something that I can do on my own or do I need to take it to a shop? I searched but didn't find anything for 3rd gens, only 2nd.

 

You could pull the cover off and take a look......But if I were you and did not know the history....I'd replace it and the water pump soon.

 

Alright, I'll give the dealership a call.

 

Ditto.....no vehicle history = replace

 

You can't check to see if it needs replaced, used belts look the same as new ones. Most replacement belts come with a sticker that should be on the cover, with date and mileage. If there isn't one assume it's original. Here's a write up on replacing the belt, if you want to tackle it yourself. It's not really that hard to do.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/

 

I bought my truck used and did not get any service history with it, but when I took it to the dealership, they put the VIN into their database and were able to give me the details of all of the maint performed at any toyota dealership. Many people use the dealership when it's under warranty and you may be surprised what they can tell you.

If you can't get the info I've been told that an experience mechanic can tell by looking at the belt whether its relatively new or needing replacement.

 

Any noises coming from the front of the motor?

I just did mine on my 97 with 160k on it, took about two nights of work to replace the belt, water pump, thermostat and both idler pulleys. The pulleys are a little expensive but if your gonna have it apart you might as well get it all replaced.

 

I just ordered all of the parts as well as the Snap-on tool to do mine 103,000 miles and almost 5 years old. Should be a fun DIY...

Andreas

 

Just did the timing belt and water pump on my wifes 4runner. The tool is essential to press the tensioner pulley to install the belt. I should have pulled the radiator. I banged it up a little. I think it didn't take longer than 8 hours to do.

 

sgirt,
I was under the assumption that removing the radiator would allow far more working room, but that the auto tranny cooler lines run through the radiator. Is this correct?

Andreas

 

Yes, the tranny lines do run through the radiator at the bottom. If you want to remove the crank bolt with an impact gun, then you'll need to remove the radiator, but otherwise just cover up the radiator with a big sheet of cardboard so you don't ding it all up.

 

Jamie,
So there's enough room to get the bolt off with a large breaker bar or the starter trick? Looks tight down there but manageable.

Andreas

 

I left the radiator in place and there was enough room, not enough to use an impact gun but enough room to work. Make sure to get a pulley or harmonic balancer puller with the metric bolts. I got one at harbor for $9.

 

Yep, I've done it several times with the radiator in place.

 

There is enough room. I would use a cardboard or something. I didn't realize how many times i bumped the radiator while scraping the gasket and things.

 

When using the SnapOn (SnapOff) SST go very, very slowly. I've used it once before without trouble. The last effort was a minor disaster. Using a cam type open end wrench I went too fast. Here is the result.




Ended up having to remove the a/c brackets after all. If I ever have to do another, I will either remove the tensioner or make/find a very shallow 'C'-clamp to press directly on the pin. Torqueing against cast aluminum is too risky.

To hold the front pulley against 210 ft/lb requires a substantial pin.



Grade 5 5/16ths finally did the job.

I think the tensioner must be fluid filled, since even in the vise, depressing it seems to be a function of time as well as force.

 

Do you happen to have the model number of the harbor puller you got? I guess this was needed to pull the crank pulley?

 

I will take it to a dealer ASAP to get it checked out. It's not making any noise or anything, but I figured better safe than sorry.

 

You don't have to have the tensioner SST or a puller for the crank pulley but both can help. With the SST you do need to be careful because as RandyÄ displayed, you can do damage if you compress the tensioner too fast and it is hydraulic (ie fluid filled) so it will compress much slower than you think. When I do it I just remove the AC brackets and unbolt the tensioner. Then just use a slightly longer bolt when reinstalling to get one side started then pull the longer bolt and install the correct one. If you live in a rust belt area you may need a crank pulley puller, but I never needed one (some PB blaster and a few taps with a dead blow mallet is usually enough).

 

Its a harmonic balancer puller kit. It came with both us and metric bolts in an assortment. I thinkg its the only one they sell. it was either 9 or 12 dollars.

If I have to do it again I would get the SST, there are more than one company that makes them besides snap-on. Removing the AC bracket was a pita, then I had to compress the tensioner with a large C-clamp.