i'll be home soon and i need to take care of my warped rotor/brakes problem.

looking in to after market rotors and pads.... how are brembos? they are 100/set for the rotors. is that a good price? its 55 bucks more to get them cross drilled or slotted, ive heard to go slotted and not cross drilled.

any suggestions on brake pads and rotors?

thanks

Jason

 

Brembos are good, but DBAs are just as good. DBA slotted rotors come from the factory as slotted rotors. Not sure if there are Brembos that come as factory-slotted.

Yes, slotted rotors perform better (in so far as SUVs and light trucks are concerned) than cross-drilled rotors since it has a bigger mass to absorb more thermal energy.

HTH.

 

Drilled or slotted rotors eat pads, no? You'll only see performance gains when they're wet, and that's not going to be a concern unless you're driving through water consistantly that is up over the brake rotors themselves.

I'd go Brembo. I'm thinking about trying out some Brembo fronts on the T100 and getting Rotors, calipers, pads, and other misc stuff for the rears (conversion).

 

I agree that slotted or crossdrilled rotors eat pads. That's a downside.

But slotted rotors keep your pads clean and from becoming glazed. These rotors dissipate gases that are generated during hard braking. Because of these two reasons, slotted rotors perform better than non-slotted rotors even when dry. Of course, when wet, they're a lot better.


Cheers.

 

I did not know that. So, with slotted rotors, you have less chance of warping? I'm going to have to get a set for the front until I can convert the rear. Then I'll have to restup the brakes so it'll be 70/30 front rear instead of 80/20 front/rear. Which is why these rotors are warped in the first place.

 

Warping, in general, is caused by thinned rotors which have been resurfaced more than once and whose thickness is below the minimum and/or by regular spirited braking.

I would recommend for you to visit http://www.dba.com.au

It's a great site to learn more about rotors and braking.
DBA has the patented Kangaroo Paw design for ventilated rotors to reduce the possibility of warping.

I'm planning on replacing my rear drums with discs too.
Any detailed plans about it already?

I'm planning on getting LC 95 series rear rotors, calipers, and master cylinder as these fit with the 3rd gen Surf/4Runner. But I still need to check the ABS as I'm worried if my ABS can take the additional brake pressure.

HTH.



HTH.

 

You guys will never know what warped rotors are until you've driven a 1980's camaro on the factory rotors, that has more than 200k miles on it.

Thanks for the link. I'll add it to my pile of 'brake links' to read. :p

No plans yet. It's not my truck yet. If it was, it would have a blower on it, some 300cc injectors, and a new fuel pump. God. It's amazing that the injectors are only 300cc. This Subaru Rally engine has 880cc Injectors. I've also wanted to take the de-resonator off, as well as adding a ram air intake (snorkle style), but I've been told 'NO'. :p

Anyway, on brakes, these are the factory rotors that came with the T100. As far as I know, they haven't been touched at all, other than alignment. I'm pretty sure these rotors got warped after doing a high speed run then going through a little mud. Rotors got wet, rear drums got wet. Hot + wet = warp. 75k isn't too bad for these rotors, though. I'll get them replaced in a few weeks, probably, at best. They aren't that bad yet. I was thinking about replacing the pads and calipers as well, if they need it. I'm going to do a brake bleed while I'm at it.

 

any other opinions? i know its still early in the day to get many responses...

also, how hard is it to take the rotors off a 2nd gen? is it as easy as removing the caliper and the rotor just comes off the lugs?

 

You'll need to remove two bolts holding the rotor.

There's a good guide on this. Not sure if it was 4x4wire.com or off-road.com. Check out the Toyota section of both sites. Am sure it's there.

HTH.

 

i read on one site that all you do is remove those two bolts, and the rotor slides off.

then i read on another site (think it was a message board) that you have to remove the wheel bearings and such.... and im not really up for packing my bearings.

anybody personally replaced their rotors on a second gen?

 

The two wheel drive may be different, but I had to remove the rotor/hub assy, and the disc itself is bolted to the rear of the hub.

Hint: to get the rotor to hub bolts loose, turn a wheel over, and put the rotor/hub back into the wheel, it gives you much more leverage.

I was able to do it without re-packing the bearings, just keep it clean, use lots of rags.

 

the 2wd is different. its a very easy job. I did mine in about an hour and a half including painting on the new rotors and painting the calipers and drums.