If you wheel a lot, you need to invest in front discos and if you have an aftermarket rear swaybar you need to buy the ones from Lee, because in the rear you can't completely disconnect them, because the swaybar will get lodged in between the gas tank and lower control arm. The design has to be Lee's for the rear.

In my opinion, it's better to even have Lee's design with a stock rear swaybar, because it's that much less tension on rear axle, so full stuff's and droops are more easily achieved, and there's no risk for bending the stock rear swaybar which will happen.

Chris

 

cool. nwor sells them for my truck for about $82 for the front. i dont need rear coz the p/u didnt come sway bars.

thanks!

 

Check Lee's before you spend almost double what his cost. I beleive his www is on this thread somewhere just above us.

Chris

 

Lee,
When you get the ones for the 3rd Gen please let me know, I really like your design and have been looking for some reliable disco's for a while and have come up empty. Thanks a lot.

Jonathan

 

Amen. Me too please!!

 

btt

 

Yes, Yes.. Chris and I have been playing with some discos, for at least, the rear of the 3rd gen trucks.. I am limited because I don't have a 3rd gen to look at, measure and play with.. It seems like with a little work, my design will work for the rear links.. I would have to look closer at the front. (Anyone line in the southern MA or Northern CT area wanna drive to my new house, when we get all moved in, to be a test dummy for the discos?? I can work a deal with you if so..)

Joshik.. Drop me an e-mail about the links, I have ramped my truck with then connected and disconnected, and I was able to get 3-4" higher on the ramp with them undone.. One of these days I will do it again and try to get a RTI score if I can figure out the math to do it.. Anyone know??

 

I finally tackled the front discos on mine - from Lee!!

Here's a pic:

 

Hey, that looks familiar. Be sure to keep the rod end nuts tight, though. That's the main source of noise for me.

 

I have enough thread to double-nut it. If the nylon insert nuts move, I'll double up.

I don't have them super tight against the pin, that way, I'm able to remove the pins without any tools (no loosening of the nut to remove the pin) No noise that I've noticed yet. If I get the clicking, I'll crank them down.

I had to cut the end links from the sway bar AND from the control arm. Damn road salt!!

 

That's what I'm using, (1) nylock nut on each and they loosen after a while. I really need to double nut it someday.

 

I was oscillating back and forth as to the spelling of "nylock" and couldn't remember which was right so I went the long route. I tried Nylok and Nyloc and even Nylock, but none of them looked right...

 

I did the same with "double nut." I was thinking "should I say jam nut, jamb nut...ok, I'll just use what cebby said...double nut. "

 

<--- For our buddy

 

im interesting in tackling this too. i have a question though. since i have a 4inch lift...how would i go about finding a rod/bolt thing (scientific huh )that would fit with my 4 inch lift. my apologies if someone thinks im trying to hijack this puppy

 

Dammit, this thread is about spelling, not lifts!

Just make the rod 4in longer. If you use my method and use threaded rod it should be pretty easy to make. I'd use a thicker rod, though, because the longer it gets the more likely it is to buckle under load, especially if you're using an aftermarket sway bar. Either way, I'd use a thicker one.

 

G'Day Guys

Mines a little different as I prefer not to have to get out in the rain or mud to disconnect and reconnect

Much easier to stay in the seat and flick a switch in my SCU (Suspension Control Unit ).

Pic 1 and 2 shows the SCU facia.

Twin rancho shock gauges and controls both have their own pump so shocks can be immediately adjusted separately.

At the moment I only have the rear disconnect fully operational and hopefully will get to the fronts sometime but they will take a bit more engineering.

When the rear sway bar switch is activated the LH inner red pilot light stays on to indicate the swaybar is disconnected. When the switch is turned off the outer LH red light activates and turns off when the swaybar is re locked.

Pic 3 shows the rear disconnect.

JD
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~jonhel5
HO 4Runner

 

That's pretty cool, but how does it work. It looks like the travel it limited in the upward direction. When disconnected, what happens when a tire is stuffed, and vice versa?

Chris

 

It works perfect.

When operational both tires can now individually go way up inside the guard to the point they will just scrape the top inside panel which they normally never could do as the swaybar limited travel etc.

Remember the RH swaybar connect acts as normal so in many cases this causes the free side to basically stay in the middle of the travel. There is more drop travel as this is what is needed more.

JD

 

From the neutral position how far does it compress, and the from the neutral position how far will it extend?

Chris