Sway-Bar Quick Disconnects
04-03-2003, 09:32 PM
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Sway-Bar Quick Disconnects
Another newbe here.... Anyway, I was reading the tech articals and came across the Sway-bar Quick Disconnects. When you use this style below, do you just pull the cotter pin out and it is free to slide up and down or do you take the the pin and the top nut off and slip the bar off the bolt? Just confused how free it has to be. Thanks.
04-03-2003, 09:43 PM
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You only need to loosen the nut enough to be able to pull the pin..
PS, here is my design..
Once tested and I am satisfied with them, I will be offering these for sale.. I have had a few people who want them..
The design is very easy to make and if you want a couple tips, let me know..
PS, here is my design..
Once tested and I am satisfied with them, I will be offering these for sale.. I have had a few people who want them..
The design is very easy to make and if you want a couple tips, let me know..
04-03-2003, 09:46 PM
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Ok, so by pulling the pin I let the sway bar slide up and down as it chooses? I think I like your design MUCH better, having all those exposed threads is NOT good for the eye. Thanks!!
04-03-2003, 09:46 PM
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Yup, just pull the pin. When one tire is fully stuffed and the other is extended the sway bar will touch the top nut of the extended side and the bottom nut of the stuffed side. But the stock height bumpstops are touching too, so the sway bar is not limiting the articulation.
Steve
Steve
04-03-2003, 09:51 PM
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Originally posted by Firefyter-Emt
You only need to loosen the nut enough to be able to pull the pin..
PS, here is my design..
Once tested and I am satisfied with them, I will be offering these for sale.. I have had a few people who want them..
The design is very easy to make and if you want a couple tips, let me know..
You only need to loosen the nut enough to be able to pull the pin..
PS, here is my design..
Once tested and I am satisfied with them, I will be offering these for sale.. I have had a few people who want them..
The design is very easy to make and if you want a couple tips, let me know..
04-03-2003, 09:52 PM
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Wow Steve.. There really is that much wrap in the swaybar? I didn't think it would go to that extent .. I kinda wish I had done the low profile bump stops after I put on the disco's..
Well I have one control arm ready to go back in, and tomorow the next side will be ready.. So the whole thing goes back togather Saturday.. Gonna be sweet, Poly bushings, sway bar discos, low profile bump stops.. shocks that are really doing something.. (I guess the 100k + was a little too much.. There was no life left in them at all.. So then I need to find myself a nice loading dock to ramp it on and see what I get with it..
They could FALL in and out by fliping the shock..
Well I have one control arm ready to go back in, and tomorow the next side will be ready.. So the whole thing goes back togather Saturday.. Gonna be sweet, Poly bushings, sway bar discos, low profile bump stops.. shocks that are really doing something.. (I guess the 100k + was a little too much.. There was no life left in them at all.. So then I need to find myself a nice loading dock to ramp it on and see what I get with it..
They could FALL in and out by fliping the shock..
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04-03-2003, 09:59 PM
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No threads, it is a lock collar, It uses a allen set screw that has a hole dimpled into the bolt to keep the bushings compressed.. It so far seems like a very good hold and I do not think it can move if it wanted to with the dimple in the bolt shaft (I will also locktight them) As for compressing them, I have a pipe I use (it is really a center section from a diffrent style sway bar) I have measured so that they line up the same height as stock when connected.
As for cost.. all the other designs I have seen out there run about $80.. I plan on selling them for $50 or less depending on how the parts prices fall into place. (I scrounged my parts off e-bay, and I can not count on always getting buy's like I did..)
Once again, if anyone is intrested in a set after I have tested them out, drop me an e-mail and I will keep you updated as to the test, with photos and final pricing.. (I have 5 people now..)
As for cost.. all the other designs I have seen out there run about $80.. I plan on selling them for $50 or less depending on how the parts prices fall into place. (I scrounged my parts off e-bay, and I can not count on always getting buy's like I did..)
Once again, if anyone is intrested in a set after I have tested them out, drop me an e-mail and I will keep you updated as to the test, with photos and final pricing.. (I have 5 people now..)
Lock collar, great idea. Thats what I thought it looked like.
04-03-2003, 10:11 PM
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PS, note the hardend washer above the pin.. I bent the pin at first when I tightened it... The washer stops this (within reason) Also, you will need to torque the lock collar down on the bushunds and measure how much bolt is left, the remove it from the control arm to get the proper tension on the bushings.
04-03-2003, 10:32 PM
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Originally posted by Firefyter-Emt
Wow Steve.. There really is that much wrap in the swaybar? I didn't think it would go to that extent ..
Wow Steve.. There really is that much wrap in the swaybar? I didn't think it would go to that extent ..
09-08-2003, 11:48 AM
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Yep! That's awesome! That's pretty close to what I was looking to do myself, but depending how much I can get a setup from you, I may reconsider. Do you make them for 3rd generations? Your picture looks to be the same as my 1997.
When it's connected, is it somehwere in the center of that bolt or is all the way at the bottom. The reason I ask is that I was thinking about making it secure somehere in the center so it has enough movement both upwards and downward when either being stuffed or fully drooped. Make sense? Let me know!
Chris
When it's connected, is it somehwere in the center of that bolt or is all the way at the bottom. The reason I ask is that I was thinking about making it secure somehere in the center so it has enough movement both upwards and downward when either being stuffed or fully drooped. Make sense? Let me know!
Chris
09-08-2003, 11:50 AM
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For some reason I didn't see the bottom picture. Ok, now I see! Does it rattle at all, and is there enough rotation when it's connected? I hope my other comments made sense?
Chris
Chris
09-08-2003, 12:02 PM
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I have not had plans to make them for third gen trucks because I don't have one.. 
As for the other questions.. Yes, they have plenty of movement.. When one side is dropped, the other side will push up.. even in full flex, there is still some left. If you let any more hang it will bend. I have wheeled these damn hard twice this year... (and a couple other normal runs) But they have also been tested at Paragon on their "hardcore" Blue trails (2's and 3's) I have also driven them highway towing my camper to the North Carolina boarder and back They do not rattle and I have never had one loosen with the nylon nuts.. (I did have a rod end fall off before they got nylon nuts though..) All my new ones have all nylon nuts I love them, they are simple, quite and work just the way they should. I did have 1 rod end break on someone though.. I don't know how or why or even if it was a defective rod end, but ask here and he will tell you that I did prompty send a new one with nuts free of charge next day..
As for the other questions.. Yes, they have plenty of movement.. When one side is dropped, the other side will push up.. even in full flex, there is still some left. If you let any more hang it will bend. I have wheeled these damn hard twice this year... (and a couple other normal runs) But they have also been tested at Paragon on their "hardcore" Blue trails (2's and 3's) I have also driven them highway towing my camper to the North Carolina boarder and back They do not rattle and I have never had one loosen with the nylon nuts.. (I did have a rod end fall off before they got nylon nuts though..) All my new ones have all nylon nuts I love them, they are simple, quite and work just the way they should. I did have 1 rod end break on someone though.. I don't know how or why or even if it was a defective rod end, but ask here and he will tell you that I did prompty send a new one with nuts free of charge next day..
09-25-2003, 10:56 AM
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Well, on a 3rd generation the stock rear swaybar supposably will not limit your articulation, but it will work against it, of course. IT will bend before it limits your travel. If you're running an aftermarket addco swaybar or any other thicker swaybar, then the difference is huge.
I just installed a set of Lee's discos on my 3rd generation, and after we discuss and fix a few little things, he'll be selling them for the 3rd gen's too. I currently am tesint them with the addco swaybar in the rear, which will be a true test for how much more travel is provided, and if the combination of the discos and addco will travel as much as with the stock swaybar. We'll see what we find out soon. Stay tuned 3rd gen owners!
Chris
I just installed a set of Lee's discos on my 3rd generation, and after we discuss and fix a few little things, he'll be selling them for the 3rd gen's too. I currently am tesint them with the addco swaybar in the rear, which will be a true test for how much more travel is provided, and if the combination of the discos and addco will travel as much as with the stock swaybar. We'll see what we find out soon. Stay tuned 3rd gen owners!
Chris
