Supercharger solution?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Supercharger solution?
I've spent the past 3 weeks reading everything I could find on getting a supercharger for my 4Runner. I've posted this on TTORA and CT, but wanted to put it here as well to get opinions. From what I've read, it looks like these are the two options. Can someone in the know confirm for me so I don't miss anything and will know how much cash this is gonna take.
I've done some more reading....
I've sent e-mails to URD and Gadget, but haven't heard back yet, but it's only been a couple of days so hopefully I will soon.
In the meantime it looks like there are basically two options for doing this SC deal right. Can someone in the know confirm these so I know what I need??
BOLT ON SOLUTION (easiest install, good performance but not maximum)
Get an additional injector kit either from TRD, or URD's new kit and get URD's AIC with timing control for tuning. With that solution here's what's needed:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) Additional Injector Kit (TRD or URD)
c) URD Additional Injector Controller with timing feature
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) 2 step cooler iridium spark plugs
f) 170 degree thermostat
NON BOLT ON SOLUTION (harder to install, but provides the maximum performance possible)
a) TRD Supercharger
b) URD Fuel Upgrade Kit
c) URD MAF/Timing Calibrator (aka FTC)
d) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
e) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
Can someone confirm these please?
The only thing I wasn't sure of is whether or not a Walbro 190 Fuel Pump is needed if just going with the additional injector solution.
I have an auto tranny and know I should look into a valve body upgrade as well, but that's pretty simple to figure out compared to the SC options.
Thanks in advance.
I've done some more reading....
I've sent e-mails to URD and Gadget, but haven't heard back yet, but it's only been a couple of days so hopefully I will soon.
In the meantime it looks like there are basically two options for doing this SC deal right. Can someone in the know confirm these so I know what I need??
BOLT ON SOLUTION (easiest install, good performance but not maximum)
Get an additional injector kit either from TRD, or URD's new kit and get URD's AIC with timing control for tuning. With that solution here's what's needed:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) Additional Injector Kit (TRD or URD)
c) URD Additional Injector Controller with timing feature
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) 2 step cooler iridium spark plugs
f) 170 degree thermostat
NON BOLT ON SOLUTION (harder to install, but provides the maximum performance possible)
a) TRD Supercharger
b) URD Fuel Upgrade Kit
c) URD MAF/Timing Calibrator (aka FTC)
d) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
e) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
Can someone confirm these please?
The only thing I wasn't sure of is whether or not a Walbro 190 Fuel Pump is needed if just going with the additional injector solution.
I have an auto tranny and know I should look into a valve body upgrade as well, but that's pretty simple to figure out compared to the SC options.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Contributing Member
Yup, looks like you've got most of it figured out. Just to be clear, you need the Walbro Fuel pump in both cases though.
There will also be some tuning in both cases, the amount difference in tuning between the 7th injector and the Fuel upgrade kit are not as great as some people make it out to be. You still have to adjust timing, some closed loop delivery if you want to make sure you have more fuel in boost (for this you'll also need the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator), and open loop fuel delivery... In fact, in both cases you'll want to get the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator, to make sure you don't run too lean under part-throttle boost conditions.
EDIT:
Also, the "URD Supercharger Fuel Upgrade Kit" comes with the FTC-1 in it already. And the "URD Additional Injector Controller Kit" comes with colder plugs, walbro fuel pump, and the t-stat. Oh, and you'll want a BR3 OBD-II Scan Tool too...
EDIT ALSO:
If you might ever consider getting WMI injection in the future, talk to midiwall about possibly getting a Perfect Performance SMT-6 instead of the FTC-1, because it has an extra map available for controlling such a thing.
There will also be some tuning in both cases, the amount difference in tuning between the 7th injector and the Fuel upgrade kit are not as great as some people make it out to be. You still have to adjust timing, some closed loop delivery if you want to make sure you have more fuel in boost (for this you'll also need the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator), and open loop fuel delivery... In fact, in both cases you'll want to get the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator, to make sure you don't run too lean under part-throttle boost conditions.
EDIT:
Also, the "URD Supercharger Fuel Upgrade Kit" comes with the FTC-1 in it already. And the "URD Additional Injector Controller Kit" comes with colder plugs, walbro fuel pump, and the t-stat. Oh, and you'll want a BR3 OBD-II Scan Tool too...
EDIT ALSO:
If you might ever consider getting WMI injection in the future, talk to midiwall about possibly getting a Perfect Performance SMT-6 instead of the FTC-1, because it has an extra map available for controlling such a thing.
Last edited by mastacox; 03-01-2007 at 09:52 AM.
#3
Registered User
i'm everywhere...
Both packages look good, but (of course!) I have some comments.
Have fun!
Both packages look good, but (of course!) I have some comments.
- Like Brian said, you need the Walbro 190 no matter what.
- If you're looking to save some cash, the Wideband can be staved off and replaced with a narrowband gauge hooked to the front O2 sensor. It's not recommended for WOT tuning, but it's fine to keep track of general "how's it running?" issues.
- Give a bunch-o thought to running an EGT gauge. It's a BETTER way to have an idea of not only "how's it running?" but also "how far can I push it?".
- You really should look into the SMT6 if you're thinking about the FTC1 solution. There's an SMT thread around here with a bunch-o information. I think I ran though a couple of the differences before in a thread with you... the extra map is one of them.
- Brian pointed you to the BR3 - VERY nice box, but you'll need a laptop to run it. There are stand-alone solutions that we can talk about as well.
- You should run the 170* thermostat for both solutions.
- If you buy the SC used, then you'll want to be sure you have the "TRD SC Throttle Body Gasket". The stock TB gasket is often a "D" shape which will cost you 1-1.5psi of boost in a SC setup.
Have fun!
Last edited by midiwall; 03-01-2007 at 10:42 AM.
#4
Registered User
hmmm...
You have a 2002 - I THINK your front O2 sensor is actually a wideband AF/R sensor already. If so, then there is NO need to add another one. You can piggyback a gauge off of the stock one just fine.
You have a 2002 - I THINK your front O2 sensor is actually a wideband AF/R sensor already. If so, then there is NO need to add another one. You can piggyback a gauge off of the stock one just fine.
#5
Contributing Member
I think I have heard that piggybacking off of the stock AFR sensor is a nono, but don't quote me on that...
#6
Registered User
I figure that the fear is that the additional load of a gauge can affect the reading. Electrically, I don't see it happening. The high impedance of the gauge will barely be felt (if at all) on the wire - especially if it's a wideband.
I can appreciate people worrying about it, but I'd like to see some voltage measurements to prove it.
#7
Contributing Member
If you're looking to save some cash, the Wideband can be staved off and replaced with a narrowband gauge hooked to the front O2 sensor. It's not recommended for WOT tuning, but it's fine to keep track of general "how's it running?" issues.
The LM-1 has a display, the XD-16 is a damn pricey gauge. Given the price of a wideband sensor, I don't have mine installed unless Im tuning. I run a narrowband gauge off of the front O2 for full-time monitoring, then I use the LM-1 when I want to deal with WOT.
The LM-1 has a display, the XD-16 is a damn pricey gauge. Given the price of a wideband sensor, I don't have mine installed unless Im tuning. I run a narrowband gauge off of the front O2 for full-time monitoring, then I use the LM-1 when I want to deal with WOT.
As for the wideband setup. I think the LC-1 / XD-16 combo is an EXCELLENT way to go (mainly because it's what I have). I hope to in the future have a data logging system plugged into it (which is where I will get EGT from) and it will help me have a lot of information displayed on only 2 gauges (yes, I hope to have 2 XD-16's, the boost gauge will be replaced with one). I hope to use the system for keeping track of several metrics, including EGT, AFR, Boost, Oil Pressure, etc. I also really like the ability of a permanent install to ALWAYS see what my AFR is, because it's immediately obvious if something is wrong with fuel delivery in the engine. I guess I just don't have the faith that everything is always working fine.
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#9
Contributing Member
I think that's a myth that Gadget created so that he can resell more Innovate Motorsports products.
I figure that the fear is that the additional load of a gauge can affect the reading. Electrically, I don't see it happening. The high impedance of the gauge will barely be felt (if at all) on the wire - especially if it's a wideband.
I can appreciate people worrying about it, but I'd like to see some voltage measurements to prove it.
I figure that the fear is that the additional load of a gauge can affect the reading. Electrically, I don't see it happening. The high impedance of the gauge will barely be felt (if at all) on the wire - especially if it's a wideband.
I can appreciate people worrying about it, but I'd like to see some voltage measurements to prove it.
#10
Contributing Member
aye! If only there was a Wiki to write all this stuff down ONCE! (I know, I know... )
I hear ya' about the LM1/XD16 combo, but it's just SOOOOOO much to have hooked up all the time. You're talking $560 retail to monitor wideband, and while you're doing it you're burning time on a $180 A/FR sensor. eek.
SpeedDude.... Brian and I like to go-around on this. We see it different ways, and that's cool, so you'll just have to absorb what we tell ya' and then pick my way as the right one.
I hear ya' about the LM1/XD16 combo, but it's just SOOOOOO much to have hooked up all the time. You're talking $560 retail to monitor wideband, and while you're doing it you're burning time on a $180 A/FR sensor. eek.
SpeedDude.... Brian and I like to go-around on this. We see it different ways, and that's cool, so you'll just have to absorb what we tell ya' and then pick my way as the right one.
... and the AFR sensors are only $75
PWNED!
EDIT: Uh oh, the Standalone kit even has "Free Shipping" right now! Double PWNAGE!!!
Last edited by mastacox; 03-01-2007 at 10:44 AM.
#12
Registered User
Well, another problem is you can't really just plug into a wire at the O2 sensor, because you need a computer to make sense of what the sensor is saying to transmit it to a gague... so really the only thing you would save money on is another O2 sensor, which isn't that much $$$...
The O2 signal (narrow or wide band) is just a voltage, there's nothing magical about it. The only special thing about a narrowband is that the voltage shift is very "narrowly banded" (0.2->1.1v) versus a wideband is 0-5v.
Cost wise... I bought my dual EGT/AFR meter for $80. Works well, and lets me run three gauges in a two gauge pod.
#13
Contributing Member
Ummm... Both narrowband gauges I have handles this on their own.
The O2 signal (narrow or wide band) is just a voltage, there's nothing magical about it. The only special thing about a narrowband is that the voltage shift is very "narrowly banded" (0.2->1.1v) versus a wideband is 0-5v.
The O2 signal (narrow or wide band) is just a voltage, there's nothing magical about it. The only special thing about a narrowband is that the voltage shift is very "narrowly banded" (0.2->1.1v) versus a wideband is 0-5v.
Yeah, but I'm goin for the bling factor (while reducing the total number of gauges I have mounted everywhere). That, and a logging system will make tuning the WOT a breeze (you know how it goes, add bigger injectors here, WMI there). As long as the system keeps track of MAP, RPM, and AFR, I can just plot it in a 3-D plot, and adjust my fuel map accordingly. Now closed loop isn't quite as obvious due to the damn ECU's fuel trims, if only I could log those... Oh yeah I was going to use the logging system to watch Tranny temp too. By using the logger I can fit 6 gauges in the space of two: Boost (MAP), AFR, EGT, Trans temp, Oil Pressure, etc.
Last edited by mastacox; 03-01-2007 at 11:13 AM.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
you need the Walbro Fuel pump in both cases though.
In fact, in both cases you'll want to get the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator, to make sure you don't run too lean under part-throttle boost conditions.
Oh, and you'll want a BR3 OBD-II Scan Tool too...
If you might ever consider getting WMI injection in the future, talk to midiwall about possibly getting a Perfect Performance SMT-6 instead of the FTC-1, because it has an extra map available for controlling such a thing.
In fact, in both cases you'll want to get the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator, to make sure you don't run too lean under part-throttle boost conditions.
Oh, and you'll want a BR3 OBD-II Scan Tool too...
If you might ever consider getting WMI injection in the future, talk to midiwall about possibly getting a Perfect Performance SMT-6 instead of the FTC-1, because it has an extra map available for controlling such a thing.
[*]Give a bunch-o thought to running an EGT gauge. It's a BETTER way to have an idea of not only "how's it running?" but also "how far can I push it?".
[*]You really should look into the SMT6 if you're thinking about the FTC1 solution. There's an SMT thread around here with a bunch-o information. I think I ran though a couple of the differences before in a thread with you... the extra map is one of them.
[*]Brian pointed you to the BR3 - VERY nice box, but you'll need a laptop to run it. There are stand-alone solutions that we can talk about as well.
[*]You should run the 170* thermostat for both solutions.
You have a 2002 - I THINK your front O2 sensor is actually a wideband AF/R sensor already. If so, then there is NO need to add another one. You can piggyback a gauge off of the stock one just fine.
I dunno Mark, wideband is an awfully nice thing to have; and besides, he doesn't have a narrow band sensor to tap into.
As for the wideband setup. I think the LC-1 / XD-16 combo is an EXCELLENT way to go (mainly because it's what I have). I hope to in the future have a data logging system plugged into it (which is where I will get EGT from) and it will help me have a lot of information displayed on only 2 gauges (yes, I hope to have 2 XD-16's, the boost gauge will be replaced with one). I hope to use the system for keeping track of several metrics, including EGT, AFR, Boost, Oil Pressure, etc. I also really like the ability of a permanent install to ALWAYS see what my AFR is, because it's immediately obvious if something is wrong with fuel delivery in the engine. I guess I just don't have the faith that everything is always working fine.
As for the wideband setup. I think the LC-1 / XD-16 combo is an EXCELLENT way to go (mainly because it's what I have). I hope to in the future have a data logging system plugged into it (which is where I will get EGT from) and it will help me have a lot of information displayed on only 2 gauges (yes, I hope to have 2 XD-16's, the boost gauge will be replaced with one). I hope to use the system for keeping track of several metrics, including EGT, AFR, Boost, Oil Pressure, etc. I also really like the ability of a permanent install to ALWAYS see what my AFR is, because it's immediately obvious if something is wrong with fuel delivery in the engine. I guess I just don't have the faith that everything is always working fine.
So is this correct??
BOLT ON SOLUTION (easiest install, good performance but not maximum)
Get an additional injector kit either from TRD, or URD's new kit and get URD's AIC with timing control for tuning. With that solution here's what's needed:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) Additional Injector Kit (TRD or URD)
c) URD Additional Injector Controller with timing feature
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) 170 degree thermostat
f) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
g) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
NON BOLT ON SOLUTION (harder to install, but provides the maximum performance possible)
a) TRD Supercharger
b) URD Fuel Upgrade Kit
c) URD MAF/Timing Calibrator (aka FTC)
d) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
e) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
f) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
#15
Contributing Member
These would be your shopping lists, not really a big fan of the "bolt-on" vs. "not" distinction but anyway... again there really isn't a huge difference between the two in terms of tuning requirements except that the 7th injector route runs a little bit better at idle, and with hot starts and the like. 7th injector route might also be slightly more expensive.
Additional injector route:
Get an additional injector kit either from TRD or URD's new kit, and get URD's AIC with timing control for tuning. With that solution here's what's needed:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) Additional Injector Kit (TRD or URD)
c) URD Additional Injector Controller with timing feature (includes plugs, thermostat, controller)
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
f) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
Larger Injectors Route
Buy the TRD supercharger, then get the fuel upgrade kit which includes everything you need for making the engine run right. With that solution you need:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) URD Fuel Upgrade Kit (Includes FTC-1, and everything else needed)
c) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
Additional injector route:
Get an additional injector kit either from TRD or URD's new kit, and get URD's AIC with timing control for tuning. With that solution here's what's needed:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) Additional Injector Kit (TRD or URD)
c) URD Additional Injector Controller with timing feature (includes plugs, thermostat, controller)
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
f) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
Larger Injectors Route
Buy the TRD supercharger, then get the fuel upgrade kit which includes everything you need for making the engine run right. With that solution you need:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) URD Fuel Upgrade Kit (Includes FTC-1, and everything else needed)
c) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
Last edited by mastacox; 03-01-2007 at 11:22 AM.
#16
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: orange county, ca
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non-turbo supra injectors for sale!
I've got some used, non-turbo supra injectors for sale if your interested. 6 for $175. Others will let us know if that's too high or a good deal. They will work with stock harness and are the same supplied in the URD kit, saving you some money there while you do it right.
#17
Contributing Member
The URD kit has different injoctors: they are 318cc Bosch Injectors, and they don't work with the factory harness. The non-turbo supra injectors are what, 305cc? But they do work with the factory harness.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
These would be your shopping lists, not really a big fan of the "bolt-on" vs. "not" distinction but anyway... again there really isn't a huge difference between the two in terms of tuning requirements except that the 7th injector route runs a little bit better at idle, and with hot starts and the like. 7th injector route might also be slightly more expensive.
Additional injector route:
Get an additional injector kit either from TRD or URD's new kit, and get URD's AIC with timing control for tuning. With that solution here's what's needed:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) Additional Injector Kit (TRD or URD)
c) URD Additional Injector Controller with timing feature (includes plugs, thermostat, controller)
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
f) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
Larger Injectors Route
Buy the TRD supercharger, then get the fuel upgrade kit which includes everything you need for making the engine run right. With that solution you need:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) URD Fuel Upgrade Kit (Includes FTC-1, and everything else needed)
c) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
Additional injector route:
Get an additional injector kit either from TRD or URD's new kit, and get URD's AIC with timing control for tuning. With that solution here's what's needed:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) Additional Injector Kit (TRD or URD)
c) URD Additional Injector Controller with timing feature (includes plugs, thermostat, controller)
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
f) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
Larger Injectors Route
Buy the TRD supercharger, then get the fuel upgrade kit which includes everything you need for making the engine run right. With that solution you need:
a) TRD Supercharger
b) URD Fuel Upgrade Kit (Includes FTC-1, and everything else needed)
c) URD AFR Sensor Calibrator
d) AFR WB - URD's LC-1 and XD-16 Kit to monitor AFRs
e) OBDII BR-3 Scan Tool
#20
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: orange county, ca
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supra injectors
that's accurate. anyone know of a mechanic located in Orange county to assist me with split second install/tuning/ and splicing new injector harness in?