Hey everyone, I finally got some time to install the rest of my URD fuel kit and my supercharger. I have a 2000 4Runner. I have a few questions about some of the hoses remaining. First of all, wher does this connect? I had it teed for the ISR mod. Not sure what needs to be done with it now.



Next are these two hoses on the back of the motor that used to connect to each other by way of a hard line across the manifold. My guess is that I just use the TRD supplied long hose to connect these two. Am I wrong?



The hard line and tee from URD came as in the picture. Do I run a short piece of hose from one end to the boost output on the supercharger and the other to the pressure regulator? The hard line , I believe needs to run through the firewall to the FTC but I have wired that up yet. When I get a boost guage, do I need to tee off the existing tee to connect it? A little confusing!



Where do I need to connect this port off the throttle body?



This is another open port on the supercharger next to the throttle body. What connects here?



Here is an overall shot. You can see the two large hoses in the back and the teed hose in the front laying across the radiator hose.



Thanks for your help,

Rob

 

On that first hose, it has to be teed to one of the side hoses comming off the side of the SC-- If you notice on the same side there are two hoses that come off the SC-- tee to the one furthest back. I believe it's the one that goes to the EVAP cannister (black rectangular box on side)...

The second-- Yes you are right use the TRD supplied long hose to connect these two ports...

The hard line from URD needs to be teed betwen the FPR & Boost output...

You just need a hose to be connected to that port off the thottle body to that other port on the SC as you pictured...

 

Thanks Noliwan! So I just need a hose to loop from the throttle body over the top to the supercharger? I thought that might be the case. The two hoses on the side of the supercharger are much larger diameter hoses, One is off the brake booster. Is that what I need to tee into? I already used the TRD hose in the back. Simple enough. Thanks again! I love this board.

Rob

 

--that should be the one furthest to the back I double checked and it does go to the EVAP cannister and NOT the Brake booster...

 

Okay, I am looking at the TRD hose diagram and it looks like the EVAP hose connects first (closer to the front) and then the hose from the booster. So I should tap into the first one (EVAP) or do I have something wrong? Sorry, just want to do it right the first time.

Thanks,

Rob

 

Hi Rob,
Just in case you dont have this file I'm going to post it .LINK Page 18 has your diagrams.

Good luck ,Thomas

 

Thanks for the link Thomas. I do have the TRD install guide in hard copy. Thanks again,

Rob

 

Technically it doesn't make a difference, but the way the hoses lay out, that's the most logical way.


The hose with the round blue piece in it is for the 4WD solenoids (that blue piece is a one-way valve). It can tap into either of the fatter hoses (the EVAP or booster). Both hoses will generate the same vacuum.


edit: statement removed - my bad, I screwed up when I looked at Rob's pic. My apologies to Noliwan.


Rob... yes, the FTC needs to see boost, and the FPR, and a gauge (when you get one). So at some point, you will have 3 lines coming off of the boost port on the S/C.

 

Thanks Mark. I was hoping you would chime in.

I have this part figured out I think. I have the FPR t'd into the brass barb on the back of the supercharger (boost port) along with the hard line for the FTC. I have run the hard line into the cab and just need to wire the FTC this evening. I have the IAC on the throttle body connected to the small port on the supercharger where it mounts to the TB. The port that is shown in my fifth pic. The 4wd solenoid hose (with the blue valve), I have t'd into the hose from the EVAP to the supercharger. Does all this sound right? I think it is. It makes sense now.

I have another question. My truck currently has about a half tank of 87 octane fuel. Should I buy a can of 104 Octane boost to get the truck running or will it be okay until I can get some Premium?

Thanks for your input. Very helpful and much appreciated.

Rob

 

Well, actually, I just confused the situation. My apologies to you and to Noliwan. I misread one of your pics... More below.


Yeup, good to go!


And this was my screw up. I've updated my post above where I tried to "correct" Noliwan. I totally screwed up on thinking the port in your 5th pic was the boost port. I looked, thought, got it stuck in my mind, and was wrong.

Yes, you (and Noliwan) are correct. That's where the IAC goes.


Yeup, you're right!

Umm, the kicker certainly wouldn't hurt, though any ping issues you may see right off the bat won't damage anything, for the 100 miles you'll drive until empty you may be a bit noisy and won't have the power that you should.

 

Thanks man, exactly the information I was looking for. Yotatech is such an awesome resource. Can't wait to get out of work so I can wire up that FTC and start her. Thanks again,

Rob

 

Once you've have everything hooked up and squared away, get ready for more fun !!!-- You will need to properly tune URD kit-- Hope you have all the equipment to do this...??? This is where the real fun begin...

 

She's alive!!!! I was surprised, it started right up. I took it for a quick ride and filled her up with premium. What a wonderful whine it makes. I am completely lost when it comes to tuning. I have downloaded Gadget's tuning guide but have not read it over yet. What extra equipment will I need? I'm gonna need some help in this department. Should I wait a while until the ECU settles and I've run a few tanks of premium through? I really am not sure where to start. I have loaded the software and attached a serial cable to the FTP. That's about it. Any help or guidance you guys could give would be great. Thanks again for everyone's assistance,

Rob

 

I've lost track, but if you bought the URD kit from URD then the FTC comes with a decent set of default maps to get you started.

For real tuning, you'll need the laptop, a wideband A/FR ($325 + appx $50 install) and an EGT gauge ($70).

For kinda' tuning, you'll need the laptop, and an EGT gauge.

For all tuning first-timers, or pro tuners on a new car, or those that just want to tune fast I do recommend an A/FR, but you WILL also find a compuel of recent threads where I thumb my nose at it.

The bottom line is that it will be difficult to tune the truck without something more than what you now have.


As for settling - yes, give it a 100 miles or so. Also, don't forget to reset the ECU! (pull the EFI fuse that's under the hood)



And... CONGRATS!

 

Wait, was it filled with regular unleaded before? You might want to go easy on the boost if that's the case; burn off the old stuff. Oh, and congrats! There are some great guys around to help walk you through the tuning process. It's not that hard. I was a complete newb as well, but now I am pretty fast at it. Later!

 

Could someone explain to me, how a turbo would help offroad. Am I correct in thinking that offroad one would never gain enough rpm to get the turbo to build any useable amount of boost? Just curious.

 

If we're talking about running Baja, then that's one thing, but if we're talking about crawling rocks, then that's another.

Basically, a S/C will generate more power at a lower RPM since it's directly driven off the crankshaft. It will get you torque _now_ when you stomp on the gas. But, there are smaller and smaller turbos being developed all the time - smaller is better since a smaller set of blades will spin up faster.

And actually, Porsche developed a turbo that has adjustable vanes to combat the turbo lag. More about that here:

http://www.worldcarfans.com/news.cfm...02/country/gcf

That kind of technology will eventually make it to other fields, possibly even off-road.