erik

I am pround to say I helped my brother with an engine swap and got it started last night. His 4Runner is a '94, V6. He and I had never done this before, but we managed to have some relative sucess. His original engine got hydrolocked driving threw a stream.
But...
Everything seems to check fine but there's a stalling issue when blipping/ revving the throttle.
If you know where I can look for information, it would be much appreciated. However, I attached the following info if you can help.
thank you!
Erik

The timing is set to 10 BTDC and idles solid. There is a vacuum line connection on the throttle body (TB) that didn't go anywhere before the rebuild, so it was left capped off. It's located after the throttle plate pointing upward and then turns toward the firewall, and is kinda standing on it's own. We uncapped that line and the stalling symptom is reduced because there is more air past the throttle plate. The other vacuum lines are kinda grouped together on the TB and have been left the way they were.
We think it might be the TPS or maybe the intake sensor (MAS?) area near the filter. In that air filter box is a flapper. It has a springing motion like it was intended for the design, but I'm not sure if this is a necessary element. It might be the TPS or one of the funky vacuum plungers that rest against the throttle linkage. One of them in the manual says its a DP. I'm not sure of their functions. One of them seems to mimic the throttle linkage as the throttle is revved. But while the car
is running it never touches the linkage. Yet the other one (called the DP) is harder to view from where it's at. I think that one is just to sense if the TB linkage is rested at idle.
Anyway. this Hanes manual literally sucks and it's hard to decipher anything. I've never worked on a Toyota before and trusting a dealer with this has proven in the past to not be so helpful in solving problems like these, but more likely just take our money. So I was hoping that you have some ideas.
I must also add that all the harnesses and hoses are back where they were. Even a hose that goes to the intake air chamber on the opposite side of the TB. There are some emission hoses
that attach to the chamber there and one happens to have a golf tee wedged into it. Don't ask me where it supposed to go. The car drove fine without tampering with it before the engine swap. However, if this hose is uncapped with the golf tee, this unmetered air allows a higher idle(1500rpm) and thereby doesn't stall when you give the car gas. But runs a little rough and pig rich because this is not metered air, of course. There is a mixture screw on the TB, that can affect idle a little bit, but doesn't affect the idle much.
Thanks for any input I can get!!
ew

celica

the screw on the TB is not mixture - it is the idle screw. You need to clean your TB. If the idle screw isn't making much of a difference to the idle then try removing it, cleaning it and the TB really well and see what that does. The DP is the Dashpot and hasnothing to do other then slow doen the idle drop for emmissions

Matt

erik

Thanks. Well. I don't think this will help since it's been cleaned already.
We messed with the screw and turning it in causes it dto die. So I'd think that this wants to close the throttle plate more. (contrary to my thinking) So we have it at about a mid point right now. The TPS is almost as far the clockwise position to reduce this stalling so that he can drive the car. However, we do feel that a freshly rebuilt engine should have a lil more power than the other old engine. So I think the mixtures are way off. But that's another question...
The dashpot is the lower one. There is also another unit similar on the side of the throttle body (i.e. T.B.) on the firewall side. I don't know if this is a concern. I think that this car is a California car. There is tons of vacuum lines. I wonder if there's a way to test the air box's MAF?