hi, this is my first thread...

My 93 runner has a very aggravating problem. The acceleration is very sluggish until it reaches a certain point which varies according to which gear I am in. In 1st, the problem is not usually noticeable, but in 2nd, the truck revs very slow (even with my foot on the floor) until almost exactly 3500 rpms almost every time. At this point it surges with power the way it should be. The exact same thing happens in 3rd, 4th and 5th but with decreasing rev points, eg 3200 in 3rd, 3000 in 4th and 5th.

o.k. that's the first problem:

it also idles rough when warm

in neutral when I bring the revs up slowly it get s up to about 2000 and abruptly cuts down to 1000 and then resumes its climb and repeats

By the way, none of these problems seem to happen when the engine is cold.

I've been told that it could be a number of culprits from the TPS to the EGR to the fuel filter

I've swapped the TPS with a junk yarder to no avail and EGRs are over $300 Can. and I've read that the fuel filter is lifetime and a real PITA to get at in the 22R.

Any help would be fantastic

This is my winter car and I really can't afford any major overhauls... the real cash is saved for my convertible

Thanks

 

Check your idle control sensor and some of the electrical sensors by getting into the diagonists port inside your hood. If there's an electrical problem a code will flash on your dash by that of your check engine light. Hope that helps

M

 

I notice the same power surge with my 94 22Re. Seems like it did get more noticable in the past several years. I did move up to 31" tires but geared for 28s Dont know if that would make the surge more pronounced. I just thought that I had hit the torque peak.

 

You have a 22RE, not a 22R in your 93 unless they kept the carburated engine longer in Canadian models.

If you truly have a 22R there is no TPS and the fuel filter is in the right rear wheel well behind a plastic curtain. No tools are needed to replace it and it might take 45 seconds to do.

Plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor good?

 

Like Matt said, plugs, wires, etc. Also check timing, O2 sensor, and run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. I recommend BG 44K. It's good stuff. Check out www.bgprod.com for a store that sells it near you.

 

Heck if its a 22re the fuel filter will take all of probably 5-10mins, at least thats how long it took me and a buddy. Alot easier to do if you take the black plate off of the fender well, like 4 I think 12mm bolts, I could be wrong though might be 14mm or 10mm. It is a PITA to get to but if it needs to be changed it needs to be changed. Mine had 150,000miles on the fuel filter before I changed it so...

 

Word to the wise though, unless you dig the scent of 87 octane, make sure to unscrew your gas cap to vent out the built up pressure.

 

Thanks,

I'm goint to change the fuel filter as soon as I can get it in someplace warm enough...lying under a car in the snow isn't very fun! I'll post again when and if I get it solved.

Thanks for all of your suggestions

 

Hey
Your right changin the filter is a huge PITA...i just did mine yesterday and it took me about 2 hours mabye a little more...it on the side of the block and you need some reall small hands to get in there...it helps to take off the belly pan and to have 2 guys doing it...one under the truck and one above....you can see the filter clearly from under neath but its hard to get to from there...and no filters are not a lifetime thing...they need to be changed...i did mine and i noticed a huge difference in power and response...so try that and also try that injector fluid...it should help too...keep me posted on how it goes
Cody

 

You can bypass the EGR for free.

Check vacuum lines by leaving the truck running and spraying carb cleaner on the vacuum lines, engine RPM will change when you spray an area where there is a leak.

Is your TPS adjusted properly? That could be the problem.

 

well if its for free then how do i bypass the valve? and won't that be worse for fuel milage? and for the vaccum lines do i just keep them conected then spray the cleaner all over them? and wait for the hight idle? then replace that one?
and for my TPS i have never touched it and nobody has touched it...my truck has 300,000 km on it and i heard that they can start to go after about that...thanks
COdy

 

I'd wait for the TPS to go bad.

By bypassing the EGR the cylinder pressures will go up increasing the tendancy to ping in HOT climates. In cool climates it is fine. Mileage won't be affected much. Essentially the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) recycles spent exhaust back into the intake in order to lower cyl. pressures and temps so that the timing can be run more advanced than it would without the EGR. SO, if you experience pinging with the EGR bypassed, retart the timing a few degrees. If you search on removing the EGR, I'm sure you will find something.

 

Don't spray all the lines at once or you won't be able to tell which one is leaking.

 

Don't spray all the lines at once or you won't be able to tell which one is leaking.

 

I just had the same problem you were describing with the sluggishness in second for a moment and then taking off, and the rough idle when warm. I just replaced my O2 sensor and had to reterminate the wires. Seems the exhuast pipe had come in contact with the wire harness and melted the wires for the O2 sensor. Eventually the wires coroded and the CEL came on with a Code 21 (O2 sensor short/open). After replacing the sensor and fixing the wires. MY sluggishness is gone, and my idle is silky smooth. If the wires weren't bad it would have taken 10 mins to change.
Check yours out, it fixed mine