I have a question, how do you get the seat past those two things coming out the side of the shift cylinder wall?? I have no idea

 

I recall tipping one side down under the pin then compressing the other side to squeeze it past the other pin:

 

Okay thanks ill try that I wasn't too sure if those popped out or not and I didn't wanna risk breaking the seat.

 

I just did this, and I found that if you match the two little half-moons in the seat so they pivot on the pins, then the seat will insert by rotating on the pins with no compression necessary.

Too late for this guy, but I thought I'd post for future searchers.

 

Whats the fitting tapped into that shifter lid? Super 4crawler automated trans fill system?

 

Old thread, but this makes me sick to my stomach...... The transmission "needing to be replaced" was the last straw until i had to sell my last 4runner. It would pop out of 3rd and 4th gear, Dad was the original owner, and it at 350,xxx miles on it...

Had i known about this i might still have my first 4runner/ first car.

 

Ouch!!! ^^^Replacing the shifter bushing makes a big difference in these trucks and is easily done. It is needed to be replaced on most of the transmissions I have seen as it is overlooked or not known about.

 

This bushing was one of the contributing factors in me buying my backup pickup truck, I got it for a song. Lots of problems according to the PO mechanic, needed new head, new control arm bushings, new transmission, and it clearly needed new interior. Seats were recovered, a good power-wash brought that back to life, it was just dirty, I thought the seats were brown, turned out to be grey. The control arm bushings were fine(quoted $400), just needed new center link($15 at the pick n pull). Did not need a new head, just needed a new gasket, ie not a penny pinchers gasket. It also needed the timing chain to actually be put on right as well, their mechanic was a tooth off, the timing light was showing it way off. The transmission that needed a $900 rebuild, just needed $20 in sockets, feels brand new. The guy was quoted about $2000 in repairs, which in reality was under 100 to get it where it needs to be. Try the bushings before getting the transmissions rebuilt!! My dad had no clue that such a thing existed, and he has been rocking the toyota pickups since the 70's. Be leery of mechanics as well, they always think worst case scenario.

 

It's funny I just replaced mine but they definitely didn't need it. I was surprised. My shifter had TWO seats, one in the shape you'd expect, another was just a flat rubber washer. Don't ask how long I suffered out in the cold trying to get that collar back on with no luck, before I realized there was another gasket down in there...

But both the old seats were still intact and pliable. And to be honest, my shifter almost felt a little tighter with the old seats. It still feels great, but I think maybe the softer rubber gave the shifter a different feel than this harder seat from Marlin. But whatever. Still feels great, and I know I'll never need to do it again on this truck.

 

How do you use a timing light to check a timing chain? I don't know the 22re, but I thought the chain only controlled valve timing, and had nothing to do with ignition timing, like the timing belt on the 5VZ-FE V6 3.4L. Does the chain drive the distributor or something?

 

I can't even get the spring retainer off. I feel like a idiot. A friend of mine did this to 3 Toyota's, said it's a 10 minute job. Says he turns the
retainer with two screwdrivers. I cant push the stick down far enough to take the load off the spring. I've tried two small , sharp screwdrivers,
small vise grips and small pliers. No luck. Guess I'll make a special tool to push down and turn. My fingers certainly aren't strong enough.

 

Mine was not that hard. Do not push down on the stick. I used a thumb on each side of the retainer ring. Push it down, then turn counter clockwise to release it from the pins you see in the above pictures.

 

Thanks
Did that many times. Still making my tool to contact the two flat sides. My tranny is W55 , 2wd.

 

 

You might pull up the shifter boots and have a look underneath and see how close the shifter is to the front of the metal plate, since 1st and 3rd gear are forward in the shift pattern.. If too close, under the torque of acceleration, the transmission moves around on the trans. and motor mounts and can push the shifter out of gear. See below for some ideas on fixing that if it's the issue:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#ManualTranny