I just removed the shifted but can't take it apart to change out the bushings. Can anyone explain how to take that thing apart??

thanks.

 

Push the cup down at the base of the sifter and turn and it'll pop up.

 

nevermind...i figured it out..

 

thanks for the help...

 

everything is back in place and rides like a champ.

 

I need to do this....maybe tomorrow afternoon. Question is, should I go get it from the dealer, or order the HD one from marlin and have to wait for a million years to get it shipped from California.

 

shipping for mine from marlin was quick. even with 2 day shipping, it was still only about $30. i say go with the marlin. it feels awesome, adn you never have to replace it.

 

I just figure I can have it today....if my truck lasts 20 more years....I'll gladly replace it again. Is there a difference in performace or is it just longevity with the marlin?

 

Hi:

I am the author of the article in the first post. I am amazed how many people email me all the time thanking me for saving them from a total tranny rebuild.

Last month my ex-wife called me telling me the tranny in her '94 V6 xcab would no longer stay in 4th gear, she had to hold it in. Occasianally it would pop out of 2nd as well. Everybody she talked to (including the Auto Tech teacher at the HS where she works) told her after 210,000 miles, the tranny was shot and she needed a new one.

I replaced the shifter bushing a couple weeks ago, part was $9. Even the parts guy at the dealership said I was wasting my money.

Truck hasn't popped out of gear since then. Drives perfectly.

I now replace them routinely when I do a clutch job.

 

Old thread, I know, but the URLs for the write-ups are broken and I'm wondering if anyone can point me to a valid write-up on how to do this?

Thanks!

 

Its pretty easy to do i ordered the parts from marlin crawler the seat and the ball for the shifter and the seat for my transfer case. Mine wasnt falling out of gear but had lots of slop, all you do is tahe the boot off push down on the shifter ball and twist left and pull up. The transfer case was awful to do cause i couldnt push the ball down and get the snap ring in place about an hour and half later alot of cussing and my dads help pushing the snap ring in the grove and finaly it went in place would not do the transfer case one again mine was okay. but the shifter and ball and socket is ten minutes tops

 

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...ent-18543.html

 

Hey cred, thanks for the reply.

So you take out/off the plastic trim, remove the cosmetic leather shift ball, remove the cosmetic leather boot, and then there's a collar that you push down and turn counter clockwise and the whole shifter comes out?

Transfer lever seems to work fine, so I'll leave it alone for now. She fell out of first on Saturday pretty hard, and I find myself doing a lot of fishing for the gears. Especially first and reverse. Lots of slop.

Thanks again!

 

Awesome 4Crawler! Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a million. The FSM might as well be a cave painting for this little project.

 

I think I paid 20 somethin bucks at marlin crawler and it's polyurethane bushings so they shouldn't crumble into peices like the old was, it felt like driving a brand new truck I had to learn how to shift again

 

Thanks again everyone. Since my last post I went to the dealer, got the replacement parts, pulled apart the shifter, replaced the parts and made a return run to the dealer (I accidentally left my debit card there).

I decided to put OEM parts in only because the transmission has 240,000 miles on it, and the expected gremlins - so I wanted to see how it behaved with the "right" part.

The seat seal had totally disintegrated. All that was left was chunks of rubber and the black ring (the bottom part of the two-part seat). I can promise that the thing was in there for all 240,000 miles.

The bushing at the end of the shift lever looked brand new. I even mic'ed it just to see, and my five-decimal micrometer didn't pick up a difference at any point on the bushing. I replaced it anyway since I already had it apart.

I can't say that it shifts like new, but it shifts like a high mileage transmission in excellent condition.

Interestingly, there was an occasional grind going into reverse, and, over the five or six times I've reversed it with the new seat and bushing it has not hesitated going into reverse at all.

I also won't be accused of sexual assault for feeling up the passenger's leg pushing the lever into fifth anymore either. A quarter inch variance in the thickness of the seat 'moved' fifth gear seemingly a inches inches towards the driver's side.

Personally, I wouldn't have thought a bushing would make such a difference, but I guess it's another example of how well-engineered these things are. It was completely drivable, if picky, with the shot part, and drives better now with the new part.

Incidentally, I made a tool to remove the pressure-loaded collar that secures the lever in place: Buy or find a piece of 2 1/4" PVC and cut the pipe so it is about four inches (palm-width) long.

Then, cut a slot lengthwise (so that if you look at the cross-section of the pipe that would normally look like this: O, it now looks like this: C. That slot fits around the shift lever, and by putting a piece of rubber or cloth between the pipe and the collar, gives you an easy way to depress and turn the collar for removal and installation.

 

Just my two cents worth, from a non-mechanic but the first and original owner of a 1990 pu (22r) 4spd .. this will help:
1) Diagnostics - Truck was getting harder to get into down gears and occasionally popped out of gear. Try this - pull up on the shifter - particularly going from 1st dwont to second and 3rd down to 4th; if it's easier to get into and out of gear by pulling up, then bushing is probably your problem. Buy from Marlin crawler - around 25 bucks plus shipping. took 5 days via fed ex from CA to MD.
2) installation - hard part is pushing down and rotating the collar a quarter turn. I happened to have an "O" ring compression tool that worked just right, but a long needle nose or guerrilla fingers might work also.
3) Transmission was getting harder to shift for at least a year - fifteen minutes on this website researching the problem and $25 bucks later we're good as new. Yotatech forum f'ing rocks! thanks guys..
All I need now is a replacement bench seat - any leads??

 

I bought one for my 98 runner, from martin crawler. Haven't had time to tear into lately. But, anyone ever heard of these parts wearing out? My truck as of lately is darn near impossible to shift. Royal pain.. if its not these parts, what else could it be?
thanks.

 

oh baby, my bushing showed up this past week and finally got a chance to throw them in today and so happy to finally have this done!

My truck, the bushing was still intact and not doing too bad but since I ordered one for the 4runner, I just went ahead and got two sets.

Not super big difference with my tacoma although it does feel slightly more crisp, but the 4runner was night and day! Pretty much expected that, and upon removal of the shift boots and the retainer/spring/shifter, the old busing was completely disintegrated, I mean GONE!

So cleaned her out and with lots of liberal greasing, installed the new one and the shifter now actually feels like it follows a pattern and no longer mush. Like new, good to hook; easiest replacement part ever.

hardest part was probably just getting the small bushing off of the ball end of the shifter itself, used a vice to squeeze the end and pop it off.





the old ones here on the top are out of my taco, still in one piece



good chance to empty all the shotgun shells and pistol rounds not to mention, dirt, out of the shift console. Washed the whole thing in the kitchen sink, 13 years of grime accumulated. Looks puuurty now...

 

awesome fix, ordered mine from marlin crawler, Truck feels like new.. great write up.Thanks everyone and YT....