95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Sheared 2 of 3 thermo housing bolts

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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #1  
ft_surgn's Avatar
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From: Nevada/SLC
Sheared 2 of 3 thermo housing bolts

I decided to undertake the old radiator/transmission cooler/timing belt/pump/thermo replacement. As I was very carefully working my way out, I sheared 2/3 thermo housing bolts. I have my ideas on how to handle this, but thought to check if anyone has made this mistake and found a good way to navigate.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 06:24 AM
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You mean the bolt heads just came off while turning them out? Yikes, that's not cool. I'm about to replace this stuff too (coolant, stat, gaskets, temp sensor), and would rather not encounter this.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 06:30 AM
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the thermostat housing is held on by studs and nuts, not bolts. what did you break? I had no problem. (but mine was on a stand)
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 06:45 AM
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Should have soaked them in PB prior to this. Looks like like you either have to soak them in PB, drill them and then use an easy out or you just have to drill and tap them.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 08:06 AM
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I sheared one going back on. Torque was 13 or 14 ft-lbs and stud sheared off when wrench was at like 12. There was enough left I could get it out with Vice-grips once I pulled the housing back off. I took my wrench downtown and had it checked. It was fine. I think those studs are just a bit too soft after 10 years in the block.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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A Lucky Shake!

So a little update:
Saturday, after I broke the studs, I tried wrenching them with a vise-grip. When that didn't work, I quit for the day. I started looking at heli-coil, drill-out and tap, etc. I decided before I went through all that trouble, I would get a new pair of channel locks and try it again. Soaked the boys in PB for about 20 minutes, and they turned right out! I am usually not lucky, so today was great! I ordered replacement studs and nuts for $6 total.

I followed incorrect torque specs from the Haynes manual even though I had my FSM all ready to rock. Lesson learned.

Also, thought I'd share my run-in with the R cam pulley. 2 stitches.

Speaking of the R pulley, when I opened the cover, the marks on the left pulley/belt/block were all lined up. The right however were not. The belt and block marks were in line, but the pulley mark was off. When I install the new belt, All marks should be perfectly in line, regardless of position of the old belt, correct? The timing was not off before the change--purred like a kitten in fact.

Great looking motor, Greg

Qyota, if you need the tensioner compressor and crank pulley holder, PM me and we can work out an arrangement


Thanks![IMG]file:///F:/DCIM/100KC360/100_0712.JPG[/IMG]
Attached Thumbnails Sheared 2 of 3 thermo housing bolts-100_0712.jpg   Sheared 2 of 3 thermo housing bolts-100_0723.jpg  

Last edited by ft_surgn; Jun 14, 2010 at 06:21 PM. Reason: compliment
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 06:02 AM
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Thanks surgeon, but I'm just doing the t-stat and CTS, not the timing belt. Fortunately, that stuff was changed before I bought the truck.

So, it looks like even though you sheared the studs, there was plenty of stud left to get a vise grips on...right?
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ft_surgn
So a little update:
Saturday, after I broke the studs, I tried wrenching them with a vise-grip. When that didn't work, I quit for the day. I started looking at heli-coil, drill-out and tap, etc. I decided before I went through all that trouble, I would get a new pair of channel locks and try it again. Soaked the boys in PB for about 20 minutes, and they turned right out! I am usually not lucky, so today was great! I ordered replacement studs and nuts for $6 total.

I followed incorrect torque specs from the Haynes manual even though I had my FSM all ready to rock. Lesson learned.

Also, thought I'd share my run-in with the R cam pulley. 2 stitches.

Speaking of the R pulley, when I opened the cover, the marks on the left pulley/belt/block were all lined up. The right however were not. The belt and block marks were in line, but the pulley mark was off. When I install the new belt, All marks should be perfectly in line, regardless of position of the old belt, correct? The timing was not off before the change--purred like a kitten in fact.

Great looking motor, Greg

Qyota, if you need the tensioner compressor and crank pulley holder, PM me and we can work out an arrangement


Thanks![IMG]file:///F:/DCIM/100KC360/100_0712.JPG[/IMG]
Thanks.
When you line up the new belt the marks should all line up (2 cams and the crankshaft). Once you turn it over a revolution they wont line up any more. It's perfectly OK.
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