S/C Pulley! Which one?
08-21-2005, 12:21 PM
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S/C Pulley! Which one?
I am ordering the URD fuel kit. They said I need to buy a smaller pulley for maximum power. They have some for sale for 150 or I noticed there are also some on ebay for 50 or 80 buy it now. They one on ebay is made by VHR and it claims to be 9 psi and 2 in. I was looking for feedback regarding the ebay pulley. There is a huge price difference, and every penny counts because I am only a college student.
08-21-2005, 05:41 PM
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Most of the guys I know here use the URD 2.2 Pulley.. well worth the money and proven positive results... I have never heard any feedback on the VHR pulley that you mention on ebay... and since you are purchasing the URD kit-- I strongly suggest you stay with their products...Again all their products have been tested and give positive results... I'm using the 2.2 pulley right now and reach boost at 8.5 to 9.5 psi --my buddy Dave (TRDOLMAN) uses the 2.0 URD pulley and hit boost levels over 10psi... He has the the fastest and strongest running supercharged 3.4L engine around... URD has and will Confirm this... 
Last edited by Noliwan; 08-21-2005 at 05:43 PM.
08-21-2005, 06:47 PM
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Noli, have you had any problems with smog using the URD fuel setup? Also, did you dyno yours there in the SF bay area? I'm about to purchase supercharger, fuel setup and pulley from them. I'm thinking 2.1 just to be safe..haha. I learned my lesson about being greedy when I caught my GSXR on fire running nitrous.
08-21-2005, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by stiffler
Noli, have you had any problems with smog using the URD fuel setup? Also, did you dyno yours there in the SF bay area? I'm about to purchase supercharger, fuel setup and pulley from them. I'm thinking 2.1 just to be safe..haha. I learned my lesson about being greedy when I caught my GSXR on fire running nitrous.
The only thing that would worry me is the visual inspection--since my engine bay is loaded with so much performance parts--All CA legal... but as long as I'm well tuned I don't see a problem with it...There is not much difference between the 2.2 ,2.1 and 2.0 pulleys...as far as HP is concerned-- the 3.4L engine seems to run better with the 2.2 pulley as we have tried & experienced it on the dyno runs...Here in San Jose-- DYNOSPOT RACING...That is where me & Dave always have our Dyno runs and would highly recommend them to anyone else seeking to dyno their truck or car...
08-21-2005, 09:18 PM
#5
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koyota93;
The stock S/C pulley will put you at about 6.5psi depending on altitude, a 2.2 will put you at about 8, 2.1 around 9 and 2.0 around 10. Here in Seattle, I'm running the URD 2.2 and pull about 8.5.. I'm also running a bored TB, Airaid intake and the deckplate mod - I mention it 'cause it's important to not impeed the S/C from sucking in the air it needs to create the boost.
I would recommend AGAINST running anything smaller than the 2.2 pulley unless you're also going to run a misting system. This is because as you turn up the boost, you're going to induce the probability of ping into the system. You can retard the timing with the FTC1 (part of the URD system) but it will only take you so far before you start having other issues - like performance falling off.
Running 8+psi of boost on these engines is a lot - you'll love the power. You can always go beyond that when you're ready to spend more money to do it right.
Speaking of spending money.. You don't say if you're running an auto or manual, but if you're pushing this power through an auto, then you REALLY need to get the valve body work done. Otherwise, you're just losing power through slipping, and you're shortening the life of your tranny.
The stock S/C pulley will put you at about 6.5psi depending on altitude, a 2.2 will put you at about 8, 2.1 around 9 and 2.0 around 10. Here in Seattle, I'm running the URD 2.2 and pull about 8.5.. I'm also running a bored TB, Airaid intake and the deckplate mod - I mention it 'cause it's important to not impeed the S/C from sucking in the air it needs to create the boost.
I would recommend AGAINST running anything smaller than the 2.2 pulley unless you're also going to run a misting system. This is because as you turn up the boost, you're going to induce the probability of ping into the system. You can retard the timing with the FTC1 (part of the URD system) but it will only take you so far before you start having other issues - like performance falling off.
Running 8+psi of boost on these engines is a lot - you'll love the power. You can always go beyond that when you're ready to spend more money to do it right.
Speaking of spending money.. You don't say if you're running an auto or manual, but if you're pushing this power through an auto, then you REALLY need to get the valve body work done. Otherwise, you're just losing power through slipping, and you're shortening the life of your tranny.
08-21-2005, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by midiwall
koyota93;
The stock S/C pulley will put you at about 6.5psi depending on altitude, a 2.2 will put you at about 8, 2.1 around 9 and 2.0 around 10. Here in Seattle, I'm running the URD 2.2 and pull about 8.5.. I'm also running a bored TB, Airaid intake and the deckplate mod - I mention it 'cause it's important to not impeed the S/C from sucking in the air it needs to create the boost.
I would recommend AGAINST running anything smaller than the 2.2 pulley unless you're also going to run a misting system. This is because as you turn up the boost, you're going to induce the probability of ping into the system. You can retard the timing with the FTC1 (part of the URD system) but it will only take you so far before you start having other issues - like performance falling off.
Running 8+psi of boost on these engines is a lot - you'll love the power. You can always go beyond that when you're ready to spend more money to do it right.
Speaking of spending money.. You don't say if you're running an auto or manual, but if you're pushing this power through an auto, then you REALLY need to get the valve body work done. Otherwise, you're just losing power through slipping, and you're shortening the life of your tranny.
The stock S/C pulley will put you at about 6.5psi depending on altitude, a 2.2 will put you at about 8, 2.1 around 9 and 2.0 around 10. Here in Seattle, I'm running the URD 2.2 and pull about 8.5.. I'm also running a bored TB, Airaid intake and the deckplate mod - I mention it 'cause it's important to not impeed the S/C from sucking in the air it needs to create the boost.
I would recommend AGAINST running anything smaller than the 2.2 pulley unless you're also going to run a misting system. This is because as you turn up the boost, you're going to induce the probability of ping into the system. You can retard the timing with the FTC1 (part of the URD system) but it will only take you so far before you start having other issues - like performance falling off.
Running 8+psi of boost on these engines is a lot - you'll love the power. You can always go beyond that when you're ready to spend more money to do it right.
Speaking of spending money.. You don't say if you're running an auto or manual, but if you're pushing this power through an auto, then you REALLY need to get the valve body work done. Otherwise, you're just losing power through slipping, and you're shortening the life of your tranny.
08-22-2005, 12:24 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by koyota93
Thanks for all the responses. I think I will go with the URD pulley. I do have an automatic and I do plan on getting the IPT Valve Body.
As for calling John, the sooner the better... I _haven't_ and the 1st->2nd slipping is only getting worse. I'm playing the odds that when I finally get things together to do it, that I won't be looking at major tranny work.
It can be an expensive game.
Let us all know how you like the power.
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08-22-2005, 05:52 AM
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I would also recommend the URD 2.2 pulley. It provides a good boost (literally) in power without the worry of overspeed on the S/C. There is no comparison between the VHR pulley and the URD. The VHR slips and because the sides aren't nearly as deep, the belt has a better chance of coming off.
08-22-2005, 08:45 AM
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excellent, thanks for the input. I don't see a problem with smog either...I've modified my 300zxtt quite a bit (turbos, intake, cams, pistons, etc). I believe the only thing I had to tell the smog guy was where the o2 sensors were located. So 2.2 pulley and the URD fuel setup...here I come.
08-22-2005, 09:34 AM
#10
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Originally Posted by stiffler
So 2.2 pulley and the URD fuel setup...
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/
"John" is the owner, and he's here on YT.
08-22-2005, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Noliwan
what is John's call name on the forum...???
08-22-2005, 03:00 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by stiffler
Wow...I had no idea. This is the first automatic transmission I've ever owned. These costs really start adding up!
Anyway... the downside is that if you don't spend the $800ish bucks (cost of work + cost of shipping + cost of tranny fluid + possible rental car), sooner than later, then the shift from 1st -> 2nd will get worse and worse. The other gears can have issues as well, but the real problem is the low end.
If you really can't afford the work right away, then lay off of the high RPM run-outs in 1st gear and you'll be "okay" for longer.
Every-so-often there will be a sale going for S/Cs... There was one around here a while back, and 6 sold like hotcakes. The downside is that people look at $1000 for an S/C and think they're done (or, the more common $1800 price). That's SOOOOOO untrue. Yes, people have dropped them in "clean" and been "fine", but those stories are few and far between.
Fuel mods, injectors, piggy back controller, deck plate, tranny work, premium gas... It adds up really quick.
... but damn it's cool.
