seaflea

What do the plugs look like? Are all cylinders burning correctly? Did the technician check the cold start sensor? It could be out of spec. and causing the rough idle.
I am stumped if you cant tell.......

YotaJunky

I checked the cold start injector timer switch, but not the injector itself. 4 of the plugs looked fine, but the technician said 2 of them looked like it could be coolant related or running very lean. The 2 suspected plugs looked like they had white-looking powder on the electrodes, but not squeaky looking clean. I don't have any coolant loss nor is there any evidence of oil in water or vice versa.

BTW, did you have any problems removing the O2 sensor from the front pipe?

Troy

seaflea

Ok the clean plugs could be a sign of coollant leaking into the cylinder. I had that for a while too. the head gasket can leak and not get coolant into the oil. also it may be leaking just a small bit now so you wont notice the coolant loss.
You can have this checked by having the cooling system pressure checked and also a cylinder leak down test will show this.

I have replace the head gasket on mine a couple of times because of this.

Jakethebeast

My dads 1982 dump bed 22r had that problem for 3 years and it got to the point where it would stall when he was trying to cross traffic so he dumped over 2 grand into it only to find out it was only his ecu/onboard computer making it do that...200-400 dollar fix depending on what you get...apparently it just got water on it and short circuited...

well im 16 almost 17 now and i have an 1986 1 ton pickup 22re...and every thing ran perfect till a month ago...so my first order of business is to get the o2 sensor out of the way with a new one then get a new ecu if it needs one...i should have that done after the holiday season when i can get my next pay check...

as for the heater thing it does he same thing the higher i set my heater the hotter the engine gets i changed the thermostat and still did it...it could have something to due with the fact the heater is connected to the coolant hoses and it need more coolent to use the heater or something...

it idles rough more frequently(almost all the time) when i i turn my heater on... i don't know if i might have a bad ground or something...

ohh and second gear grinds going into it from first or third unless i jam it in there really fast...could it be my syncros going bad? or just an improper clutch adjustment?

TheGreyGoose

YotaJunky. Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the exact same problem with my 91. Your description was dead on.

YotaJunky

No... I sold the truck about 2 years ago and now have a 22re. It's much easier to work on.

noglu10

Hi,

New member here. This is the problem I have on my 85 celica gts 22re. I also have a 90 pickup with the same engine. I have worked on it off and on for a couple of years with no success. This evening I just started it up cold and it was ok. I drove about 3 miles and got a cup of coffee at a convenience store and restarted it within 5 minutes and it was ok. I then drove it about 10-15 miles and parked it for about 15 to 20 minutes. On the restart it idled rough and almost cut off when I pulled out onto the road. I nursed it about a hundred yards until I could pull off the road. I sat there in neutral pumping the gas until the engine picked up and stopped the rough idle. I then drove it back home about 10-15 miles with no problem. This is really weird. I have checked the cold start injector/cold start injector switch and both seem ok. I also checked the coolant temp sensor. I have not been getting any codes but when I returned home this time I had a tps sensor error. I have a meter to check this tomorrow. It does not miss or run rough going down the road or at a traffic light only on a warm restart. I replaced the afm last week with a remaned one. It fails the same as it did before with the orginial afm. I have owned this car since it was new in 1985. I am the only person with the exception of my brother who has worked on this car. He rebuilt the auto transmission and it works perfectly. The motor has had a timing chain replace but the head has never been off in 25 years with over 280,000 miles. It still runs well except for this issue. At this point I am not sure what to do next except that replacing expensive parts to see what happens it not on the top of my list. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Tom

seez52

Seems like this issue keeps cropping up for many of us and no one has figured out the answer.

Any help on what the trouble is?

bigpaw

My truck is having this same problem also. Really low stumbling idle at warm startup unless revved, along with rough idle warm after that. Also have checked and/or replaced about everything...it's odd because it doesn't do it every 10th start or so. The engine shakes a ton...really violently...when starting either hot or cold, like it's starting on only a couple cylinders, but it's not motor mounts.

I'm also stumped.

seez52

On mine it was the air bypass screw. Its the big round flush flat bladed screw right near the throttle plate. It's on top. The O ring on mine had gotten hard and was allowing the screw to vibrate itself closed. I replaced the O ring to hold the screw in place, then adjusted it out until I got the right idle. Has worked great since.

MB4runner

Yeah, same problem on mine, it would run fine when cold in winter, when warmed up it was rough.. So cleaned the IAC and it's better.

ospartier

Another thing to check is the injector insulators that they sit down in. I have seen them get brittle and crack and suck air.

noglu10

I think you may have something. About a week ago I bit the bullet and replaced all four fuel injectors. (I did not see your post before I did this) I have run it off and on since then with "no problem". The injectors were almost $400.00. The replace did not take that long. I made sure I lubricated the insulators with "pet jelly" prior to install. (They should "rotate" freely when installed so that the electrical connector will be positioned correctly). I think this may very well be the "fix". I have owned this car since it was new and have never replaced the injectors. I will let you know if I have any more problems.

bigpaw

It's pretty cool to see the shape of the old insulators vs the new ones. I thought replacing those would solve problems since I could slide the injector in an out of a couple insulators about 1/8" and see a gap, but I guess it really didn't help. Anyway, when I tested for leaks with propane, the worn insulators didn't have leaks. Getting injectors cleaned didn't help either because they had almost full flow and were all about equal before pro cleaning. Still think it was a good idea to replace insulators and rule out injectors as a cause of rough idle.

noglu10

Injectors did not fix this problem on my vehicle but replacing the fuel pump did. It has been almost a month and I have been driving this vehicle a lot in hot weather with no failures. When the fuel pump was removed it was "hot" to the touch. Hope this helps someone else.

Tom