Can you switch to new rotors without changing the pads (which still have a good amount of life left)?
I know that you are supposed to turn the original rotors if you need new pads.
Thanks guys,
J

Hope your new brakes are ok Kevin.

 

you can physically jsut change the rotors, but why... if there is an ireegular wear pattern alreayd on the current pads that cant be seen with the naked eye, it will screw them up or prone the new rotor to wearing prematurely....

if you are replacing it, do it right and replace both, even if you have the rotors turned, you replace the pads at the same time with new ones

 

drilling holes can have adverse effects on the structural integrity of a rotor. i guess slotted can help dissipate heat faster, somewhat. i have the brembo rotors and performance friction pads, they perform great, much better than the stock setup!

 

Cross drilled roters tend to develop cracks between the holes. Slotted vent gas from under the pad. Slotted or blank would be my choice.

 

Those Power Stop Cad ones look alot like the DBA rotors out of Autralia.

 

I have Stillen cross drilled rotors and Metal Matrix pads (F/R) on my JGC. They are great.

I have slotted Power Stops on my 4Runner. They also work great.

I'm a believer in getting the gas out from under the pads. Simple physics.

Also simple physics is that there is less braking surface area when using slotted/CD'd rotors. In the real world, my experience has been that getting the gas out outweighs the lack of braking surface area.

 

How much did your combo run you for?

 

I'm runnning blanks plus the performance friction pads...thus far I'm please...it's only been 200 miles

 

lemme give you my rotors history.

i used to have the worse warping rotors. almost every year, they would go warped. it was like a schedule. after the 2nd or 3rd set of replacements (after some turnings on them), i finally sucked it in and got cross drilled brembos.

that was like 6 years ago. now, like after 2 set of pads, i have YET to see any symptoms of rotor warpage.

now on my STi, i have seen one issue that i thing a set of crossdrilled or even the slotted one will help me.

when it rains and water gets in between the pads and rotor, and i hit the brakes, i feel like i have NO BRAKES. i cant wait till rain season to replace them with some cross drilled ones... i saw a nice set of MU PROJECT rotors for the STi that looks really cool too...

 

one thing i learned (and this is second hand info, but to me it makes sense), is to never drill AFTER they were made.

info i got on mine, was brembo CASTS the holes in them.

kinda like donuts are made with holes, not some machine cutting a hole in them after coming out of the oven.

i was warned about a cracks forming. but after putting in the second set of pads, i checked them and no visible cracks...

just my 2 cents...

 

+1

before my STi, i had a WRX. and this one exit off the freeway that i had taken a million times with my 4runner, i didnt feel as good as with the WRX...

(okay, with the STi with the massive brembo calipers, when dry, it's a little diff issue... lol.....)

 

I see...

 

Perhaps they are But they work great. The new lines, pads and rotors were installed last week when my 4" lift was done. I had a frozen caliper also, fun stuff. The truck brakes great now at least!

 

I think it depends when the holes are drilled. If they are drilled after the rotor is produced by Joe Blow then they certainly would be more prone to cracking. I had a set of Brembo cross drilled and slotted on my 93 RX7 that I ran hard on the auto-x course and drag strip for years and never had a rotor crack.

 

Bump for an old subject. I've had my rotors warp twice (on the second time right now) in the last 4 months and i'm sick of it. Should I just get brembo blanks?

 

Powerslot!!

 

hmmmm, tempting!



edit: wow they look expensive

 

cross drilled ones.

i just had the tires removed on the fronts and i swiped my knuckle on the rotor surface.

smooooth....

and this is like 5-6 years into it. no maintenance other than 2-3 sets of pads and 1 complete fluid swap.

best part? NO MORE WARPAGES!!!!!!! (crosses fingers and knocking on wood)...

 

see thats tempting too, but is it worth the extra $70?

 

read my earlier posts.

i used to have warpage problems every 8-10 months. no matter what i did. OEM rotors.

i bought my own torque wrench specifically for the lugnuts (one of the leading causes of warpage issues).

after the 2-3 rotors replacements with OEM stuff and when the last one could no longer be "turned," i went ahead and "splurged" for back then $90 per rotor (told ya it was like 6 or so years ago... lol)...

i smile now when i read threads like these... :evil smiley:

make sure to get cross drilled ones that are made with the holes in it, instead of drilling holes AFTER they are made...