I finally installed my RevTek Diff Drop kit yesterday on my 2002 Runner.

Here are some things incountered.

*(Remove both skid plates under the front of the vehicle.
Save the OEM bolts, a total of nine 12mm bolts.)

Don't remove all 9 bolts. Leave the two on that hold the front and back parts of the skidplate together. Loosen them a bit but don't remove them.

*(Remove factory 19mm x 7" long bolts and nuts, supporting the front differential.
Save the OEM washers for reinstalltion.)


I could not remove the washers from the factory bolts. I would have had to spend some time beating them over the threads to remove them.
So, I made a trip to Lowes and found some 1/2" lock washers that were the same outside diameter and thickness as the factory washers.

I haven't seen anyone else mention this problem with the washers so maybe it is just on my 2002 Runner.???


*(Install the 1" spacers between the two front differential supports and front cross-member.



*(Fasten to cross-member using new 1/2" x 8" long bolts and nuts making sure to reuse the factory washers).

These are not M8 grade bolts like the factory bolts. I haven't heard of anyones breaking yet
but I may go back to Lowes and get better
M8 grade 8" bolts and replace the ones from the kit.


*(To reinstall the skid plate.)

Before I started I went to Lowes and bought Stainless bolts to replace the factory 12mm bolts that hold the skidplate in place.
This info was from mgspann's Bolts previous post so I had the Lowes part numbers for the hardware.

SS Bolts: M8 - 1.25 x 30mm p/n(136855)
washers: 5/16 p/n(35116)
lock washers: M8 (59406)

I replaced 5 of the 12mm factory bolts with the stainless bolts from Lowes. The 3 front and the 2 on the very rear part of the skidplate.
I used the 2 that came with the RevTek kit to replaced the recessed pair on the front skidplate and kept the 2 factory bolts
that hold the front and rear skidplates together since these need to be shorter.

*(To install the rear skid plate, elongate the rear mounting holes with a file for fitment.)
You will need to elongate the 2 rear holes. You will have to remove a bit from the rear portion
of the holes.
I used a metal cutting bit with my Dremel. Don't make them wider just longer or you will have to find oversized washers to cover the holes.

So, the only concern I have is with the lower grade 8" x 1/2" bolts supplied by RevTek. I think I would feel more comfortable with replacing them with M8 grade bolts in the near future.

 

Didn't it lower the skid plate on yours? It lowered it a full inch on mine, but I decided I didn't like that idea, and had to do some work on the skid plate so I could suck it back up closer to the crossmember. Did you have to get longer rear bolts?

Chris

 

wow thanks for all the help and info. I plan on doing the kit in a few weeks as well. Definitly a helper. Hey Chris I need to talk to you, IM me on aim when you see me on. I need you to teach me how to use a spring compressor. Thanks.

 

I can use one fine, thanks, but I'd lve to hear your opinion of how I was doing it wrong?

Chris

P.S. Just email me, because I'm watching a movie with the wife: chrisrademacher@fastmail.fm

 

Yes, the skidplate was lowered and I could see how grinding out the frame on the back of the skidplate would help with that.

Nope, I could have used the originals on the back end of the Rear skid plate. I just made those 2 holes longer towards the rear.
For the two rear bolts on the front skidplate I had to use the 35mm bolts in the RevTek Kit.

Also, I found that if you loosened the 2 bolts that hold the front and rear parts of the skid plate together there is enough flex to line up the rest of the holes. Then tighten the 2 holding the front and rear together last.

The process would be like this:
Line up and just start the 3 bolts on the front part of the skidplate under the radiator. Then start the 2 longer bolts in the back 2 recessed holes in the front skidplate.
Then if they are not already, loosen the 2 bolts holding the front and rear plates together. This will give you the flex needed to wrap the plates around the lowered differential arms.

Now you can line up the 2 holes in the back of the rear skidplate. They will probably be a bit short of the threaded hole in the frame. I took my dremel under the truck and cut out the holes in the plate so they lined up.

The last thing was to tighten all the bolts and then the last 2 were the ones holding both plates together.

 

Yeah, I opted to take out the frame sections on the skid plate where the diff drop part is, so I could gain back some of the lost clearance, which was about a half inch.

Chris

 

Looks good Paul, didn't that make a big difference in your CV's

P.S. I will have to come up and take you for a real ride now that I put in a new clutch

 

Alright Jim!!!!

I'm ready to ride the Silver Rocket

My Runner has never run smoother. No more vibration in the front end at 60 + MPH.

I also had a set of 275/70/16 Michelin LTX M/S put on today. It sure handles better with wider tires.