I got some new OME shocks in the mail yesterday, I set up an appointment with my dads dealership to have them installed today.

I'm infuriated. After waiting 2 and a half hours I checked to see what the progress was because it was only supposed to take an hour AT MOST! I walk out there, being as my dad works there. And my 4runner hadn't even been pulled into the garage. I am so pissed, but I'll have the last laugh since my dad controls their pay.

Either way, I'm going to be installing the shocks now, which is what I wanted to do in the first place. Can anyone tell me where I should jack up the car from? The frame or the axle? and are there any tricks I should know?

 

put the jack stands under the frame easiest way to get the old ones off is with a sawzall

 

Not to sound like a dick...... but if you don't even know where to put the jack in order to jack up the car, then maybe you shouldn't be installing the shocks by yourself.

 

Installing new shocks is easy. In fact, it was the very first job I ever did on my truck. I say go for it and do it yourself.

I had to saw one of them off, but the shocks were almost 20 years old. A little heat might help loosen them. And soak them in PB blaster a couple days before doing the job, if it's not too late.

 

You shouldn't even have to Jack it up...

 

If daddy tried to do something to an employee's pay because his son got mad there would be some serious legal issues there. I gotta agree if you don't know where or how to safely jack up a vehicle you probably shouldn't be working on it. So what happens when you get a flat?

 

X2 Scubs.

I just put on the new RS9000XL's last night after work, and before the bar (i am the DD). took about 10 minutes, only because i lost the lower bolts when i did my springs (found them in my tool bag). No jack needed. Now that i think of it, i have never used a jack to do the shocks on any of my old trucks.

 

The owner of the dealership agreed, when a crew neglects a customer for 2 and a half hours for a simple job, they must think they are making too much money.

I know how to jack up a vehicle, I've had 5 flats in two years in two different trucks. When I get a flat, I pull over and change it myself and plug it with my ARB tire repair kit. What about you? Fix-a-flat??

And I'd rather ask a dumb question than possibly damage something. All I needed to know is one part, where if anywhere would I need to jack up the truck since the shock needs to be fully compressed.

 

You shouldn't have to jack it up at all, as scuba said.
Just loosen the bolts, after having soaked them with either PB or Liquid Wrench and just yank on them.

Might take 5-10min/side if it goes well.

BTW, the reason it took 2.5 hours is probably because your dad runs the place - that's been my experience anyway.
Just walk in like you're an average Joe, let them do their thing and it should work out just fine.

Fink

 

Thanks Fink. Exactly the kind of response I was looking for. I'm planning on doing it tomorrow after PT duty. Had to buy deep well sockets, but got one size too small

 

Awesome, let us know how it turns out.
Might I suggest buying one of the awesome socket sets that Craftsman has?

I've got the 127-piece one and it is the most used thing in my garage.
It was only about $100 or so IIRC.

Fink

 

Back before I had my Taco, I had a Ranger in high school. Never having done any vehicle work because I never owned one, changing the shocks was the first thing I ever did to a vehicle. So I say its a good place to start, can't really mess anything up. As well, for jack points, they aren't the same on all vehicles. Where my Yota says to jack isn't a good spot to try to jack a Chevy 1500. Learned this the hard way by putting a dimple in the the front cross of the Chevy.

To the OP, good luck on the install and I second that Craftsman set. I have the same one and adding a few specialty tools to that (cheater bar, extensions, torque wrench, etc) it been able to do anything I have needed it to so far.

 

ditto.

and dont even try the daddy stuff.... they will all hate you 4ever, and when u have a problem u cant do urself, they will tell u to go pound sand.

 

I already have a full set of wrenches that are from the army, but just the one size I needed a deep well. Anyways, i got a 14mm craftsman socket for the top, got under the truck and applied some liquid wrench. Waited an hour and came back to try and loosen the top bolt. When I tried to turn it the entire shock house would turn. I don't have a pipe clamp in that size, so I'll need to get one. Also, the right side upper support plate for the suspension worries me. Since it has a dip where the shock tower rests, water has collected over the years, and I'm worried about the integrity of the steel.

 

Yep....I still stand by my previous statement!

 

Buy a manual.

 

Ever heard the statement, "If you don't have anything nice to say (or tech-related) then don't say anything at all."
Even if you haven't - follow it.

Rudy,

Sounds like you're on the right track, having a buddy there to help you once you get the tools you need will help.

Take some pics of the part you're worried about so we can get an idea of what's going on.

Good luck, stick with it.

Fink

 

Use a small cresent wrench or vice grips to hold the stud above the nut while you loosen the bolt, this will keep the shock from turning.


There, I made peace!

 

It sounds like the assumption everybody is making is that you're only replacing the rear shocks (I read through twice and didn't see anywhere that you say you are not also planning on doing the fronts).

If you are planning on doing the fronts, you'll need a way to compress the springs enough to allow you to loosen the top nut on the shock. It's not easy (or overly safe) with the cheapy rental spring compressors, so unless you have access to a press, be very careful if you are doing the front shocks as well.