Rich2000

Well, I finally replaced the rear diff on my 4runner.

Unfortunately, when I swapped the locker from my diff to the replacement, I somehow must've slid the locking gear into the locked position. The elocker actuator was probably in the unlocked setting when I removed it from my diff.

I tried a short road test and noticed squealing and difficulty turning on the back end. I looked at my bad diff, and sure enough, the "unlocked" position has the inner gear or cuff or whatever it's called "out" when the diff is unlocked, and "pushed in" towards the center when it's locked. I know for a fact that that cuff is now in the "locked" position because that's how I remember seeing it.

So, the problem is, how do I get them matched up again?

Does the actuator actually have two physical settings, "locked" and "unlocked"? Can I simply unplug the electrical clip from the diff to the line leading to the dash, and then press the dash Lock button to make it think it's in a locked state, and then plug the clip back in and then "unlock" it from the dash? Or does the actuator motor have a distinct "on" and "off" internal configuration in the little motor, forcing me to remove the actuator from the diff/housing, reach in with my finger or whatever and disengage the lock gear, and then reassemble?

I'm trying to fix this with as minimal removal of components as possible, as I just finally got the entire rear end in place yesterday.

I'm hoping that someone will be able to answer these questions and tell me how to sync up the dash button, the motor, and the actual locking in the diff itself.

Rich2000

Edit:
Well, I managed to get the actuator out and slide the locking gear to the unlocked position. Gonna test drive it now.

Oh, the bad news is that there's still a leak in the housing. I'll have to go the epoxy route and hope for the best.

No need to respond to this post now, the locking mismatch issue is (hopefully) resolved.