One other thought that crossed my mind, would it be possible to keep the stock shocks on for the time being and put in the OME 890's ? I could run that way until I can rent or find a sawzall to cut them out and put in the trekmasters?

 

I just did my rear shocks two weeks ago (original shocks on a '95 4WD Tacoma). I didn't even try it with my normal socket wrenches, and assumed from the beginning they'd be frozen/rusted in place. Before I even put the truck on ramps, I shot each bolt with a little WD-40, and ran out to Harbor Freight and picked up a

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30395

I had no problem at all popping them loose with practically no effort. Work smarter, not harder. Don't try cutting anything with a Sawzall or torch until you try that, assuming you haven't rounded your bolt heads off yet. It's a cheap way to go, and is something that you can use for countless other things. Granted, I wouldn't trust many of their tools such as ratchets and power tools, but for a tool that doesn't really have any moving parts, there's no reason to doubt it.



Just took a look at your shock design after re-reading your first post. That's a different setup than mine, so take my post with a grain of salt. Mine have a horizontal bolt through the top bushing into the frame of the truck, not a vertical stud out the top of the shock. My bad....

 

No problem, Yeah on the 3rd gens, there a bitch to say the least to get to the top studs, I wish they were like the tacomas or 2nd gen 4runners where there easily accessible. I agree with everyone else, just cut'em and be done with it!

 

Just be careful where you cut! Cut as close as you can to the shock mount. Otherwise, you'll cut through the part of the rod that holds the fluid. I made the mistake of cutting too low through mine and got a shower of shock fluid all over me, the underside of my Runner and the garage floor. On the plus side, it only took about 10 seconds of cutting to get through! Good luck!

 

try a socket or whatever to hold the top nut down and turn the shock with a strap wrench... worked for me. but eventually the strap wrench will deform the shock body and itll end up like spaugh idea ^^^

 

lots of advice on those rear shocks here. So i'll add to it.
I put a wrench on the top nut and took a pair of large channel locks the upper part of the shock and forced it in the tightening direction. The studs just snapped right off. No sawing, no torching, and it took less than 30 seconds each.

 

I did something similar to the three posters above me... No cutting/heating here...

 

That was how I got mine off on my 2000. I agree that those shock mounts are horrible. You have about 2 inches above the shock, and the shock stud is a little inset. I mounted a socket on top with long handle. I then pinched the shock body until I was able to get a vice grip to hold well. An extension pipe around the handle and it finally came loose. Good luck

 

I've read the thread, and I get that the rear shocks are a pain to get off.

But what I don't understand is this, if I'm cutting these shocks off because it's hard to get a socket on the top nut, how am I going to attach and secure the top nuts on the new shocks?

Can I get a deep 14mm (I assume it's a 14mm nut) socket into that small space?

 

*To install the top nuts on the new shock I think a deep well socket would work but I used a closed end ratchet wrench instead.

*Spray the bottom bolt on the old shock with penetrating oil, I prefer Sea Foam-Deep Creep
*Remove your spare tire if it's in place under the rear floor, that gives you more room to work your hand and arm up into where the top of the shock is.
*Put the jack stands in the advised location under the frame just ahead of the rear wheels, that way your shocks are fully extended.
*Disconnect the bottom bolt connection on the old shock.
*Cut the shock right at the top rubber grommet with a sawzall and a good stiff metal cutting blade. You only have to cut about half way through and then you can wiggle the shock back and forth at the cut to make it break off.
*After it's cut through the top threaded rod will pull right out.
It only took me about an hour to do both shocks.

(P.S. the dealership quoted me $130.00 to install rear shocks)

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