Rear shocks won't budge!
#1
Rear shocks won't budge!
Hey fellas,
I finally got around to doing Tundra OME lift on my rig this weekend, gots the fronts all done up, and when I started dropping the rear axle to put in the OME springs and trekmaster shocks, I could not get the bolts on the top of the oringinal shocks to budge. I sprayed them down with pb blaster and let'm soak and we tried holding down the top bolt with a 14mm socket and turning the shock with a pipe wrench, but nothing would make it budge. So now until I can get'em off, my front is sitting about 2 1/2 in. higher than the back and I look like I'm drving a low rider! Any ideas how to get them out?
The front springs and shocks were pretty easy, unbolt them and they fell right out! Put in the Tundra TRD springs (2WD red/yellow, pruple/yellow) and bilstein's (yellow/blue) bolted'em in and done! I suprisingly got over 2 in of lift on them. I'll get some pics as soon as my buddy emials'em to me!
I finally got around to doing Tundra OME lift on my rig this weekend, gots the fronts all done up, and when I started dropping the rear axle to put in the OME springs and trekmaster shocks, I could not get the bolts on the top of the oringinal shocks to budge. I sprayed them down with pb blaster and let'm soak and we tried holding down the top bolt with a 14mm socket and turning the shock with a pipe wrench, but nothing would make it budge. So now until I can get'em off, my front is sitting about 2 1/2 in. higher than the back and I look like I'm drving a low rider! Any ideas how to get them out?
The front springs and shocks were pretty easy, unbolt them and they fell right out! Put in the Tundra TRD springs (2WD red/yellow, pruple/yellow) and bilstein's (yellow/blue) bolted'em in and done! I suprisingly got over 2 in of lift on them. I'll get some pics as soon as my buddy emials'em to me!
#4
I thought about that, but using what, a cutting wheel, hacksaw? There's not much room up there to move around in.
For now until I can get back in there, I'm going to soak the nut in pb blaster every few days.
For now until I can get back in there, I'm going to soak the nut in pb blaster every few days.
#6
I had to use a sawzall to cut off the studs on my shocks. Was a pain in the ass but the only way to get them out. While the rear end is probably different then my 95, I don't see how you wouldn't have room for just the blade to get in their. They can easily cut at some pretty funky angles.
#7
I had the same problems, and im sure many others have as well. And yes it is not the best of quarters to work. I ended up having to torch mine off (on my 92 and 99) If you cant torch them or get a sawzall maybe get a dremel with some cutting discs. Ive been amazed at what my little dremel can cut through. You may need many discs but im 98% sure itll do it. (2% is enough room for error haha)
Trending Topics
#10
..but yeah youll have new bushings anyway,
#11
Yeah I'm putting on some tokico trekmasters and they came with all the bushings and mounting gear, so I'm not too worried about those. It sounds like just cutting them off is the best option so I may just go for that instead of trying to wrench'em off. Thanks for all tha help everybody! It may be awhile before I can get to it, going to be out of town this week and then the wife and i are going skiing in Montana next week, but I'll keep yall posted and let yall knowwhat happens! I may be asking more questions then!
Last edited by saulgoode; Jan 28, 2007 at 08:39 PM.
#12
Contributing Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,226
Likes: 0
From: Houston (home), Atlanta (school), Cincinnati (work)
the bolts on my roommates brake calipers were seized to no end. we tried days of PB blaster, wd-40, etc etc and 10 seconds of heat from a torch made them come out like butter. usually the heat expands them enough to break any bonds with rust and when they cool and contract, theyre free. you could also try the "shock" method of heating them up red hot and then pouring cold water on them to "shock" them back down, breaking any bonds. that works on industrial equipment all the time
#14
Ditto.....just rent a sawzall if you don't have one and cut right through the rubber bushing on top of the shock. I wouldn't suggest a torch because the burning rubber would be awful to deal with not to mention the shock could actually explode due to the nearby heat (I wouldn't try it anyway). Mine were too nasty to unscrew and in about 30 seconds with on my Bosch sawzall (be sure to use metal cutting blades, I use Milwaukee Torch blades, 9" blade with 14 TPI......they're available at any Home Depot or Lowe's) they'll be off. Including getting set up and cutting it should take you a grand total of 5 minutes to do both sides.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; Jan 29, 2007 at 05:37 AM.
#15
On the front springs and shocks, I did have to take them to my brother at firestone to get them compressed and put on the shock. I tried with some spring compressors from autozone but I didn't feel comfterble doing it that way.
#16
#17
Ditto.....just rent a sawzall if you don't have one and cut right through the rubber bushing on top of the shock. I wouldn't suggest a torch because the burning rubber would be awful to deal with not to mention the shock could actually explode due to the nearby heat (I wouldn't try it anyway). Mine were too nasty to unscrew and in about 30 seconds with on my Bosch sawzall (be sure to use metal cutting blades, I use Milwaukee Torch blades, 9" blade with 14 TPI......they're available at any Home Depot or Lowe's). With getting set up and cutting it should take you a grand total of 5 minutes to do both sides.
#18
I thought about taking the truck to firestone and getting my brother to take the rear shocks off, but I don't want to wait around all day till they have some time to do it. And I like the feeling of accomplishment when I get it all done!
#19
You should have no trouble installing the rear shocks yourself, nor is it dangerous in any way.
#20


