rear axle seal leaking
#1
rear axle seal leaking
I noticed my rear brake shoe's all corroded from the axles seal leaking. I heard the rear axles are prone to bending....anyone experience that?
Approx. how much $ for a new rear axle seal?
Should I go with OEM shoes or save some money and get these : http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/96024runnerbrakes.htm
I've got a 98 4rnr.
thanks!
Approx. how much $ for a new rear axle seal?
Should I go with OEM shoes or save some money and get these : http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/96024runnerbrakes.htm
I've got a 98 4rnr.
thanks!
Last edited by jrock; Oct 28, 2008 at 03:18 PM.
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
With the real axle seal leaking, you will need the following parts
1-Axle seal
1-Axle tube seal
1-Axle tube o-ring
1-Axle bearing retainer
1-Axle bearing
1-C clip
You will need those parts at least, PER SIDE to do it properly. The axle must be pressed apart, thus the need for new bearings, lock collar, and C-clip. You will also want to replace the brake shoes, and i would suggest replacing all the springs/clips while you are in there. Thats exactly how I did my brakes when I had a leaking seal, and it worked out great. Besides that, it gives you the satisfaction knowing it will last another 100k miles.
While you are doing all that, unscrew the breather on the top of the axle and make sure its not clogged, or buy a new one. That breather being clogged is the #1 cause of axle seal failure.
1-Axle seal
1-Axle tube seal
1-Axle tube o-ring
1-Axle bearing retainer
1-Axle bearing
1-C clip
You will need those parts at least, PER SIDE to do it properly. The axle must be pressed apart, thus the need for new bearings, lock collar, and C-clip. You will also want to replace the brake shoes, and i would suggest replacing all the springs/clips while you are in there. Thats exactly how I did my brakes when I had a leaking seal, and it worked out great. Besides that, it gives you the satisfaction knowing it will last another 100k miles.
While you are doing all that, unscrew the breather on the top of the axle and make sure its not clogged, or buy a new one. That breather being clogged is the #1 cause of axle seal failure.
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
If you have to press it all together, then yea it can be a pain. But if you have a shop do all the press work, its a piece of cake. Just take your time to do it right the first time, and you will be set.
#6
Um, it's probably just the oil seal on the very end of your axle that is leaking. It's like a <$10 seal that sits right on the inside of the axle tube. This is what was leaking on mine. The inside of the drum had gear oil all in it. The shoes were saturated. You have to pull the drum/axleshaft out on the side that is leaking to get to it. It helps to have a seal puller (glorified claw hammer), but it can be taken out with a flathead screwdriver. I had to change mine four or five weeks ago. Right rear. Took me an hour and a half with no help. That included bleeding the brakes after reattaching the brake line. But it helps if you've pulled axleshafts before and know what to do.
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,692
Likes: 58
From: Marysville, WA
Um, it's probably just the oil seal on the very end of your axle that is leaking. It's like a <$10 seal that sits right on the inside of the axle tube. This is what was leaking on mine. The inside of the drum had gear oil all in it. The shoes were saturated. You have to pull the drum/axleshaft out on the side that is leaking to get to it. It helps to have a seal puller (glorified claw hammer), but it can be taken out with a flathead screwdriver. I had to change mine four or five weeks ago. Right rear. Took me an hour and a half with no help. That included bleeding the brakes after reattaching the brake line. But it helps if you've pulled axleshafts before and know what to do.
Way i look at it is, why risk tearing it apart twice when you can do it properly ONCE and be done with it?
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