I'm looking into re-gearing from my stock 4:10s to 4:56s. I was originally going with 4:88s, but since mine is 90% a street "king", I'm opting for the 4:56s. Can anyone suggest a shop that can do "quality" work in the Phoenix area?

I posted this question a couple of years ago and never got around to doing it. The links suggested then, don't work now.

 

Uuuuuuuhhh... ZUK?! I've heard he's the best around, and lucky for you, he's in your town. Do a search for his name for his contact info.

 

www.gearinstalls.com
www.4wheelers.com

 

Thanks! Email sent to both...

 

Go with ZUK, he is well known and respected. He has my rear 3rd right now. I shipped it to him from CA because I knew he would do it right.

 

Sounds good. He's located on the other side of Phoenix, but I'm sure it'll be worth the drive...

 

This is the response I received from ZUK:

Hello Paul,
I don't do the front clamshell IFS that you have at this time but I can do a pro job on the more common rear-end that you have. You don't have the E-Locker so you must have the V6 carrier in the rear. If you have an auto tranny then I can recommend a lockrite in the rear. It's a low cost cost locker that is very friendly on the road with auto trannys. I believe they can be had for a very cheap price of about 210 plus shipping from http://performanceoffroadcenter.com .....don't quote me exactly on that though. 456 is a great ratio for that tire size.

There's no law that says you have to re-gear both front and rear at the same time. It's ok to have 456 in the rear and 410 in the front....as long as you stay out of 4WD.

I recommend having the bearings cryo treated.....especially if you plan to keep the Runner for a looong time. Cryogenically treating the bearings increases wear resistance by about 3 fold.....an amazing improvement in bearing life. This is assuming that the poor bearings don't get contaminated by excessive amounts of water which kills any bearing.

Cryo treating the ring and pinion is a good idea for 35" and bigger tires, in my opinion. It improves the "stress factor" and "bendability" ....basically their fatigue resistance about doubles. The ring will take far more abuse before breaking. It also improves the micro surface smoothness which means lower frictional temps. Again, this is more important for those guys that run big tires....and have manual transmissions that are hard on ALL driveline parts.

 

Just my opinion but I wouldn't post any pricing from guys like Zuk here. If someone wants to know what it costs, let them contact him directly. Prices change for various reasons and it might put vendors like Zuk in an akward situation possibly now or in the future.

 

Thanks! Great suggestion. I updated response...

 

As suggested, a Locker while you're already into the diff is a good idea.

 

I may opt out of the locker since I don't off road. Thoughts?

 

Thats a pretty good reason for not installing a locker.

 

Looks like I will have Zuk install my gears in the next couple of weeks. Thanks for the info...