I had an extremely rough idle and a CEL come on and the code is a misfire in bank 6. I then replaced the plugs with OEM ones and it appeared to fix it. About two weeks later it happened again. So on to the replacing the wires. I was told that I could pull the wire off the bad cylinder while running, and if it runs better than wires are the culprit. Any truth to this?

My newb question is, can I drive the 10 minute round trip with the wire pulled off of the plug? If not, is it okay to limp it to the store to buy some new wires with the possible bad wires connected (make sense?). The 4runner is my only ride and tomorrow is my only day off from work/school.

Also, I assume OEM wires are a bit more coin, are they worth the extra $$$ ?

Thanks in advance.

 

From everything I've heard, non-OEM plug wires are not Nearly as good quality and break, but I know nothing from personal experience.

If you want to get new wires just drive there with the rough idle. I would. Doubt it'd hurt it if you've been driving it and a 10min drive shouldn't do anything bad.

But then again I live on the edge. BLAM!

 

get the OEM ones. 400x better build quality, and thicker wires as well.

I once fixed a 98 4Runner just by replacing the non-factory wires (NEW) with Factory ones (Also NEW)

 

you could call royal toyota on the south side they might have them in stock if you do go to a parts store go to advanced auto the auto zone sucks and they have fools working there I have had to go back a few times to get the right part after them selling me the wrong ones.

the only thing I have found auto zone good for is tool rental and getting codes checked.

the napa is also pretty good but lately it seems that they have to order from their main store every time I need a part,

 

Went to start the 4runner today to check the wires and it wouldn't.

Back story: Month ago CEL came on w/a code of a miss fire in bank 6. Symptoms where extremely rough idle to the point of shaking the car and an obvious lack of power. So I changed the plugs w/OEM and this seemed to fix about 95% of the rough idle. CEL didn't come on for about three weeks after I reset it when I changed the plugs. Then when driving CEL came back on with the same miss fire in bank 6. Same symptoms and I was able to start and limp my 4runner the 10 miles home. Thought it might be the wires gone bad (I didn't change with plugs, I'm a poor college kid). Well, 4runner sat for over a week due to an out of town family emergency. Came back today and tried to start it to test if wires are bad and it wouldn't. When I tried starting it, it sounded like it tried to turn over one or two times and then I heard something (I can't describe it for the life of me). Well now it seems like the starter is kicking really fast with nothing to crank. Starter is good and battery connections are fine. Timing belt is overdue as are the wires.

1. Am I lucky enough that a bad wire or coil pack is causing this?
2. Did I snap my timing belt?
3. Any other suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
4. Plz no hating on not changing my timing belt, I know already.

Thanks in advance comments/advice is much appreciated

 

did you hear a snap or something? im not going to hate on you for not replacing it, i understand your situation. id replace the wires and plugs, put dual diode plugs in, change the distributor cap and rotor, and see what happens.

 

a quick way to check if the timing belt is broken is to pull the dist cap and have someone turn over the motor and if the rotor dose not move it is your Tbelt

we did that today on my buddy's GFs camery looks like he will get it towed to my place in the next week and I will have a project on my hands.

 

He's got a 96 4Runner and he's talking about coil packs. That's alright because you guys were up late I see

 

edit: deleted

 

Or you could just throw $150 in the trash and see if that fixes your truck. Seriously guys, he needs to diagnose this thing, not just throw money at it hoping that he will accidentally fix it.

 

3 coils and 3 plug wires. So we are still right.

 

No, the two posts referencing a distributor are wrong. Its a 96 3.4. There is no distributor.

Sounds like your starter or ring gear might have some teeth missing if it turns but the engine isn't... or the solenoid isn't kicking the gear out. Or is it just clicking fast? Maybe just a dead battery.