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Preventative Maintenance 96 4X4

Old 02-16-2011, 01:49 PM
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Preventative Maintenance 96 4X4

What are the most common front end replacement parts on a 4runner? After 300,000 miles I know something needs replacing. I am going to do the Tundra Brake Upgrade and Old Man Emu Struts and Springs and while I am in there, You know the rest.............
Old 02-16-2011, 01:55 PM
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Tundra brakes, i've heard, are a waste of money. Not only will you have to run a 16" rim. the cost of your tires just went through the roof. Keep it stock, I'm sure it stops just fine.

what's the condition of your rack and pinion, and tie rods?
Old 02-16-2011, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR
Tundra brakes, i've heard, are a waste of money. Not only will you have to run a 16" rim. the cost of your tires just went through the roof. Keep it stock, I'm sure it stops just fine.

what's the condition of your rack and pinion, and tie rods?

How did the cost of tires just go through the roof?? His factory wheels are 16's. And 16's aren't even expensive.



Anyway. The tundra brake upgrade is a nice thing, but not always necessary. If you just put some fresh rotors and pads on, and ADJUST your rear brake shoes so they are actually doing something, the stock front brake parts work fine.

At 300k, I would look into tie rod ends, if not the whole steering rack. Upper and lower ball joints for sure. Also see what your sway bar and endlink bushings look like....if they are falling apart, get some new ones.
Old 02-16-2011, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by quicksilvr
How did the cost of tires just go through the roof?? His factory wheels are 16's. And 16's aren't even expensive.



Anyway. The tundra brake upgrade is a nice thing, but not always necessary. If you just put some fresh rotors and pads on, and ADJUST your rear brake shoes so they are actually doing something, the stock front brake parts work fine.

At 300k, I would look into tie rod ends, if not the whole steering rack. Upper and lower ball joints for sure. Also see what your sway bar and endlink bushings look like....if they are falling apart, get some new ones.
The cost of tires between a 15" rim and 16" rim is practically night and day. Do some research, and you'll figure that out.

Regardless, a friend of mine has a 97 4Runner with tundra brakes and he recalls no real difference between the two except using a 16" rim, and the cost of tires.
Old 02-16-2011, 02:38 PM
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Towing anything over 2000lbs with the 4 runner, the difference in stopping power with the Tundra brakes is night and day. Also, a biyearly brake fluid flush does wonders for stopping power.

The cost difference between 15" and 16" tires is definitely noticable in the wallett for a good, major brand name tire.

As far as the front end goes, quickslvr summed it all up well. You may want to look at the bearings and the CVs, but don't sweat it if you don't see, hear, or feel anything wrong.
Old 02-16-2011, 03:20 PM
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Everything appears good, but after 300,000 miles, Who Knows. Tire wear has always been excellent.
Old 02-16-2011, 03:27 PM
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tundra brakes are good but they lock up really easy. i slide through intersections now with no problem in winter.
Old 02-16-2011, 04:12 PM
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I'll say from experience, it really didnt make a huge difference for me. I stop great with the tundra brakes, but I stopped pretty dang good too with the stock brakes, and I do a lot of pulling. I would focus on other things first and put brakes on the back burner for now
Old 02-16-2011, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MaK92-4RnR
The cost of tires between a 15" rim and 16" rim is practically night and day. Do some research, and you'll figure that out.

That wasn't my point bud. I know 16" tires are more expensive than 15's. My point is that he drives a 3rd gen 4runner with 16" wheels on it already. If he wants to downsize to 15's so he can buy cheaper tires, then that's his prerogative. But it has no bearing on the fact that he's thinking about doing the Tundra brake upgrade. I bet he hadn't ever thought: gee, I should ditch my nice stock 16" wheels, spend $200+ on some 15's and then that way I can save $20 a tire every 3-5 years.
Old 02-17-2011, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by quicksilvr
That wasn't my point bud. I know 16" tires are more expensive than 15's. My point is that he drives a 3rd gen 4runner with 16" wheels on it already. If he wants to downsize to 15's so he can buy cheaper tires, then that's his prerogative. But it has no bearing on the fact that he's thinking about doing the Tundra brake upgrade. I bet he hadn't ever thought: gee, I should ditch my nice stock 16" wheels, spend $200+ on some 15's and then that way I can save $20 a tire every 3-5 years.
You cannot downgrade from 16" to 15" wheels if the 4runner came stock with 16" wheels. The brakes on the 16" wheel models are an inch bigger and won't fit in a 15" wheel. If you want to save that $20 or so per tire, it will cost you on brakes as well.

Here's a reference:
http://www.top4runners.com/runhist/runhist319962.html
Old 02-17-2011, 06:53 AM
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LOL anyways, back to the original question:

I'd replace the following if you're underneath doing the suspension:
Lower ball joints, Possibly lower control arm bushings (take to shop so they can press the bushings in and out), Front Brake rotors and Pads, Steering Rack bushings, Sway bar bushings.

Make sure you lube your driveshaft zerk fittings, check for axle seal leakage, check your diff fluid levels, etc.

Most likely you'll blow your CV boots around 1,000 miles after the lift. So if you want to bypass taking everything apart again, Id just do the CV boots now However a lot of people have got away without changing them and not havnig problems.
Old 02-17-2011, 07:48 AM
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You might need to replace your O2 sensors too. You're truck is probably running fine but with 300k on the sensors you'd probably see an improvment in the way it runs and fuel economy.

Also when was the last time your timing belt and water pump and the belts for your AC, alt and stuff. Inner and outer tie rods need to be checked. Inners are $$. Thankfully my problem was solved by having to install a new power steering rack which comes with new inners. Check the CVs. Anything else with rubber. Grease everything. Fluids. Antifreeze. I know a lot of it you probably do regularly to make it to 300k but everyone forgets something once in a while.

Also check your frame and undercarraige for rust depending on what your climate is like.
Old 02-17-2011, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BajaRunner
LOL anyways, back to the original question:

I'd replace the following if you're underneath doing the suspension:
Lower ball joints, Possibly lower control arm bushings (take to shop so they can press the bushings in and out), Front Brake rotors and Pads, Steering Rack bushings, Sway bar bushings.

Make sure you lube your driveshaft zerk fittings, check for axle seal leakage, check your diff fluid levels, etc.

Most likely you'll blow your CV boots around 1,000 miles after the lift. So if you want to bypass taking everything apart again, Id just do the CV boots now However a lot of people have got away without changing them and not havnig problems.

Originally Posted by pkt1213
You might need to replace your O2 sensors too. You're truck is probably running fine but with 300k on the sensors you'd probably see an improvment in the way it runs and fuel economy.

Also when was the last time your timing belt and water pump and the belts for your AC, alt and stuff. Inner and outer tie rods need to be checked. Inners are $$. Thankfully my problem was solved by having to install a new power steering rack which comes with new inners. Check the CVs. Anything else with rubber. Grease everything. Fluids. Antifreeze. I know a lot of it you probably do regularly to make it to 300k but everyone forgets something once in a while.

Also check your frame and undercarraige for rust depending on what your climate is like.

^This is all great info!

Originally Posted by Nelsonmd
You cannot downgrade from 16" to 15" wheels if the 4runner came stock with 16" wheels. The brakes on the 16" wheel models are an inch bigger and won't fit in a 15" wheel. If you want to save that $20 or so per tire, it will cost you on brakes as well.

Here's a reference:
http://www.top4runners.com/runhist/runhist319962.html

Just to clarify: this^ is incorrect. 15" wheels will fit on a lot of 4runners that came with 16" alloys. Just because it has 16" wheels does NOT mean it has the big 13" brakes. Sport package option included bigger brakes, as well as some other a la carte option setups. 16" wheels does not = 13" brakes. 15" wheels fit the 12.5" brakes. (realize I'm mostly talking about aftermarket wheels here.....why buy 15" stock wheels?...lol)

Just wanted to clear that up.

Last edited by quicksilvr; 02-17-2011 at 09:19 AM.
Old 02-17-2011, 08:06 PM
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Oh. If you have the stock interior.....I had my drivers seat rebuilt with new foam and now I can spend 8 hours or more in it and still be able to walk when I get out.

Now if the same thing could be said for my MRAP.
Old 02-18-2011, 06:49 AM
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Tie Rod ends, balljoints and rack bushings certainly make alot of sense as well..........I guess OEM Toyota Parts are the best way to go.....
Old 02-18-2011, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by forsyth793
Tie Rod ends, balljoints and rack bushings certainly make alot of sense as well..........I guess OEM Toyota Parts are the best way to go.....
Not on rack bushings. Toyota only sells the individual pieces (price really adds up) and they are rubber. Get the poly kit from Wheeler's off-road for like $20 and change shipped and it has everything you need.
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