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Optima/H.O. Alt/Cap...Or is it just me?

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Old 01-27-2004, 08:12 PM
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Optima/H.O. Alt/Cap...Or is it just me?

Ok here is my setup...

1 JL-audio 12w7 and 1 JL-500w amp (puts out around 700w actually)

No high output alternator/Capacitor/or Optima Bat.

I have searched so hear me out...

When I play music at a decent level...not loud...I am experiencing major power drain. Now, I know that I could fix this in any of the three above mentioned ways, but I honestly feel that with just one amp drawing power that I wouldn't be experiencing this sort of problem. I have the money for the optima or a cap, but first I want to know which would probably handle the drain the best without the annoying flicker. So, all of you stereo experts out there- tell me which I should choose considering $$$ (Anyone have experience with the blue top and stereo applications?)

-also-

The problem is that I feel that my battery is too new to have that sort of problem esp.... with this small of a setup. My buddies run HUGE systems and don't have this much trouble so maybe it is an electrical problem. I don't know. I want to add lights in the future, but not until I get this issue taken care of.


Thanks!
-Matt
Old 01-27-2004, 08:33 PM
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I think a 1 farad capacitor should stop that.
Old 01-27-2004, 08:44 PM
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First off,

Nice to see a fellow Tennesseean!

So, by looking at your setup I see that you run a capacitor..and I was wondering how well it works for you?
Do you have power fade with multiple bass hits or high volume or does it stay pretty even keel. Also, have you upgraded your battery? Or are you running on the cap with a normal battery?
Thanks!

Nice rig, like the grill by the way.



Old 01-27-2004, 09:20 PM
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Get the Optima Yellow Top first. In my last car, 1988 300ZX I had two JL 10W6's powered by a 500/1, and I was also running an Audiobahn 4-way for my mids. I was killing the battery. I came home from work a couple of times and the car wouldn't start after I shut it off. I replaced the battery with a yellow top and never had another problem.

On a side note... know anyone that want's a 500/1 (with all top quality wiring kit and remote bass adjuster)? I just sold my W6's and am going to sell the amp now.
Old 01-27-2004, 09:27 PM
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So, would the optima clear up the massive power drain on bass hits as well?
-----
hmmm...I might be interested in the 500/1 if the price is right
I know I am underpowering the 12w7, but I got a great deal on the system and lord knows I couldn't afford it at retail.
If I can't afford the whole package would you be interested in selling the Remote Bass Knob seperate...I really want one of those!
pm me and let me know!
-Matt
Old 01-27-2004, 09:38 PM
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A yellowtop will work great for your system. I personally would run both if you could. Soon Im going to upgrade to a 3 or 5 farad cap and a yellowtop. Typically they say you should run 1 farad of capacitance for every 1000w rms power you have. I still have my headlights flicker at high volumes because my amp puts out almost 1700w when turned up.

Thanks for your kind words as well(about the grill i mean)
Old 01-27-2004, 09:50 PM
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It will clear up most of the power hits. Running both amps I had some hits when I was listening to it at high volume. I just turned the headlights off For the most part I don't think you'll need both unless you listen to it very loud for long periods of time. If you are listening to it as loud as I was when it was getting drained then you'll go deaf pretty quickly!

As far as the amp goes, I told the guy I sold the subs to that I'd give him 1-2 weeks from the day he receives the subs to decide if he wants to buy the amp too. UPS is scheduled to deliver the subs tomorrow. If he tells me he has enough power and doesn't need the amp, then I'm asking $275 OBO. Amp is in excellent condition(no scratches).

And with it comes:

Remote Bass Gain
4ga power
60amp inline fuse
8ga ground
16ga remote line
10ft(might be 12) Quad Helix gold plated RCA's(Monster cable, 2 channel)
4 RCA Elbows
12 gauge speaker wire
Old 01-27-2004, 09:55 PM
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What you need to sell is me your yellowtop lol.
Old 01-27-2004, 10:01 PM
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Heck no! I'm going to need it when I buy my winch(the reason I'm selling the amp). I had to convince my mom that I'm not "selling" my stereo system, I'm trading it with a lapse between getting the winch. She saw me selling the stereo as a great way to pay for my books and other expenses. I see it as, I either want a stereo or a winch. I don't want neither. Having my parents pay for school has it's downsides. I have to explain my finances to them.
Old 01-27-2004, 10:04 PM
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Thanks for your kind words as well(about the grill i mean)
dbikeman
Yeah, the grille gives it a nice clean look along with the clears.



If he tells me he has enough power and doesn't need the amp, then I'm asking $275 OBO. Amp is in excellent condition(no scratches).
OneTrickToy
Email me as soon as you find out My e-mail I know that I am interested in the remote gain and I may be able to scrape up the funds for the whole deal.


Thanks for the imput guys! I will try the upgrades and see what happens (would have in the first place, but needed some oppinions) I like to think big purchases over...
Old 01-27-2004, 10:20 PM
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Will do Strider.
Old 01-27-2004, 10:42 PM
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I have a very simple way of helping with the power drain...k well first off you have a thick wire going to your amp probably an 8 or 4gauge wire and then the szme size wire going to your body or frame...this causes resistance and it harder for the juice to flow back to your battery....so what helps and this is what i did is run either a 4 or 0 gauge wire from your negative terminal on your battery directly to your frame of you truck...thus helps in the resistance and creats and easier flow for the electricity and it only costs about 5 bucks...so try that as an easy solution... keep me posted on how it works
cody
Old 01-27-2004, 10:45 PM
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another tip on the remote gain control...if your going to use it then make sure oyu don't play with it too much...or nobody else does...especially when your system is turned up...this confuses your amp nad puts more strain on it...so be careful
Cody
Old 01-28-2004, 10:40 AM
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Only problem I ever had was forgetting I had turned up the gain for some low bass music, then throwing in some hardcore rap. It can take the wind out of you!

Everything I've read says NOT to wire the negative to the battery. I've read a good explanation before but I can't remember it. I think it was something about increasing interference noise.

BTW you want the ground as short as possible.

Last edited by OneTrickToy; 01-28-2004 at 10:41 AM.
Old 01-28-2004, 11:41 AM
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hey OneTrickToy
No you don;t ever wire your amp to your battery...all you gott do is keep the ground wire form your amp to you frame or body panel...thats fine...but this creates a harder route for the negative power to get back to the batter via the engine block...so what you do is you take a 0 guage or a 4 gauge wire and run it form your negative terminal on your battery to your frame, just directly underneath your battery or the nearest point possible....its helps the juices get back to the battery quicker which puts less strain on ur alternator and battery...so try that and tell me how it goes
Cody
Old 01-28-2004, 11:47 AM
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Also...you should turn down your volume on your deck everytime you change a CD or get out of your truck....when your CD player comes back on the subs get a sudden shock of power and they can be blown or they can slowly wreck....i have had a few subs blown on me becasue of this...so be carefull on that...and if your gonna use the gain the try to use it when your volume is turned down....just to help you out
Cody
Old 01-28-2004, 12:47 PM
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Cody,
Thanks for the help man, I might try to do that battery ground...I think I have some 4 gauge wire around here.

Also...you should turn down your volume on your deck everytime you change a CD or get out of your truck....when your CD player comes back on the subs get a sudden shock of power and they can be blown or they can slowly wreck....i have had a few subs blown on me becasue of this...so be carefull on that...and if your gonna use the gain the try to use it when your volume is turned down

I have always done that, but not for that reason...mostly because when I get in the car at 6:30am I don't want the bajeesus scared out of me!

Thanks for the help!

-Matt
Old 01-28-2004, 12:51 PM
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Originally posted by Memphis_Yota
hey OneTrickToy
No you don;t ever wire your amp to your battery...all you gott do is keep the ground wire form your amp to you frame or body panel...thats fine...but this creates a harder route for the negative power to get back to the batter via the engine block...so what you do is you take a 0 guage or a 4 gauge wire and run it form your negative terminal on your battery to your frame, just directly underneath your battery or the nearest point possible....its helps the juices get back to the battery quicker which puts less strain on ur alternator and battery...so try that and tell me how it goes
Cody
I was being stupid and didn't read your post carefully. Thought you were telling him to wire the negative on his amp to his battery. I understand what you are saying completely. Except that aren't the batteries usually grounded to the frame from the factory? Every vehicle I've owned has been.
Old 01-28-2004, 12:53 PM
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Originally posted by Strider
Cody,
I have always done that, but not for that reason...mostly because when I get in the car at 6:30am I don't want the bajeesus scared out of me!

Thanks for the help!

-Matt
I used to get in trouble when I borrowed my mom's car. I'd forget to turn the stereo down and it would always scare her! For the most part I always turn the stereo down before I shut it off.
Old 01-28-2004, 01:03 PM
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Originally posted by OneTrickToy
I was being stupid and didn't read your post carefully. Thought you were telling him to wire the negative on his amp to his battery. I understand what you are saying completely. Except that aren't the batteries usually grounded to the frame from the factory? Every vehicle I've owned has been.
You need to read even a little more closer (not flaming). He is saying to run a thicker gauge wire than stock to improve the flow of those little negatively charged ions trying to get back to the battery.



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