Ilovemountains

Hi does any one know where I can find a filter relocation kit for a 3.0. My dad installed one on his 3.4 taco and while he was running his lines he put an inline oil cooler on it and mounted it behind the bumper some where. I want to do the same on my 3.0 to cool the oil, add a little more volume to my oil and make the damn filter easier to get to!!!! If any one knows where I can get one for a good deal let me know! Matt

gwhayduke

Seems like Northwest Offroad had a kit at one time.

The Toyota filter has a check valve in it to keep the filter full of oil, so that upon startup, the engine runs less time before the oil system comes to full pressure. If you get a remote kit, make sure thatit has some sort of check valve in it to do the same or you may just be cutting your engine life short by longer dry startups.

Brendan

didn't know you could relocate an oil filter

Swede

Try this : http://www.tdperformance.com/TransDapt.html

There is a dealer locator here as well.

If the filter is mounted vertically you won't have to worry about dry start-ups.

Highland Runner

You can buy them at just about any automotive store. My local Autozone sells them. JC Whitney and Performance Products are another source.

toy283

You don't need a check valve in the relocation kit but I have considered adding a spring-loaded one in the line. If not for the flow restriction, I probably would do it. You're still using a filter, just get one with an anti-drainback valve in it like always. FWIW, the Toyota valves has never impressed me, it leaks back as often as any other I've run across. If you mount the relocated filter upright, the valve becomes a moot point anyway and the oil stays in the filter.

gwhayduke

I disagree on the checkvalve. The reason there is a check valve on the filter is because it takes a while to fill the filter with a volume of oil, filter it and send it to the engine. The check valve keeps the filter full of oil so that as soon as oil under pressure from the pump hits it, it can begin sending oil to the engine without waiting for the filter to fill up.

You're going to use hydraulic hoses to attach the remote filter to the engine and those hoses have a volume that has to be filled up with oil under pressure before it can be sent to the engine.

I'll just keep the stock setup on my engine, use Mobile 1, and change about every 5K. It's worked so far on every vehicle I've owned. I've NEVER worn out a Toy engine...Now VW's are a different story.

shamrockmac5

I was just looking at one from Performance Products the other day. I was going to ask if anyone had ever done that before. I assume it should be relatively easy to mount a cooler in front of the radiator on my 2nd Gen. Am I way off base on that? Me thinks a good tech write up could be on the way from someone.

JSharp

I have a filter relocation kit on my truck that I bought from Summit racing. It uses a full sized Ford type filter and it's easy to mount it so the filter is vertical and always stays full. It would be easy to plumb in an oil cooler with this setup but don't do it unless you're also going to use a thermostat on the cooler lines. Your oil temperature will never get to normal in cold ambient temperatures without it.

When you buy a filter relocation kit it will come with rubber line and barb fittings. Toss that stuff in the junk and purchase some braided line and the correct fittings and adapters for it. Unless you want to replace them every 2 years or so and put up with leaks. Your call on that I guess...

You can click on "my 4Runner" in my sig to go to webshots and look at the filter kit install on my truck. Good luck!

toy283

That being the case (and it is most definately tue), it is cheaper to just buy the pieces needed a-la-carte and don't bother with any of the kits. Summit has the block adapter (Trans-Dapt p/n 1013) for $9.88 and the single filter bracket (Trans-Dapt p/n 1028) for $12.75. If you want dual filters, the bracket is quite a bit more; $25.75 (Trans-Dapt p/n 1030). After that all you need is hoses of the length you want and the necessary ends/adapters. For 4-cylinder applications, a #8 hose is usually enough but for V6/8 applications or any application over 4' long I recommend a #10. While a braided stainless setup will cost more initially, the added piece of mind as well as not having to constantly replace them is well worth it in the long run.

JSharp

This is a good point. Buy the parts required separately. I bought the whole kit and used the hose to replace the hoses on my son's Pathfinder which has the same remote filter kit installed.

I used -8 hose on my 4Runner but they're really short thanks to the place I found to mount the filter bracket. It might be a good idea to use -10 hose if you're running any distance or plumbing in a cooler etc...

CynicX

ALL oil filters have an anti-drainback valve some better then others, fram being one of the worst and puralator being one of the better....as long as that valve is working properly the hydraulic lines wont drain back....its like when you put your thumb over the end of a straw in water and pull the straw out the water stays in it...even if you suck on the straw that water wont come out until you remove your thumb from the end (unless you suck hard enough to collapse the straw)....so when you start your vehicle that oil is in the line and the filter is full...now all you have is the other relocation line to fill, which wont even take a second....the relocators really wont hurt an engine whatsoever.....as a matter of fact on my step-fathers 85 chevrolet blazer with a 4.3 liter v6, it has a stock oil relocator since it was impossible to get to the stock location on the block w/o removing parts....he has (although he hardly drives it anymore) 270,000 miles....all of which being abusive, towing, stop and go....he used this truck as a work truck for most of those miles so he was turning the engine on and off all day.....