Does anybody farsee any problems with putting a TRUCK (ifs) 4'' lift on a 92 4Runner and using 5.5'' Downey rear coils insted of the kits leaf springs? I could do this for under $900 instaled with the extras. The 4'' Superlift kit would run me about $1300.

 

You will need to do more than just stick the coils in the rear. The links, panhard, and shocks will need adjusting as well.

Are you trying to run 33's?

 

I already run BFG AT 33x10.50, no probs with current set up. I would like to run a 33x12.50 but there is so much rust and mud and undercoatong on my rig a body lift would be a huge pain. Any ideas on new rear componets? BTW, I don't think the Superlift kit I looked at had any links and call me a dummy but refresh my memory as to what a Panhard is.

 

Just an observation, but all that suspension work is going to be a helluva lot harder than the 10 bolts for the body lift.

Adrian and I both run 33x12.5's with a 1" body lift. He has aftermarket torsion bars and Cruiser coils in the rear. I have stock torsion bars and Performance Products coils. Sure there is some clearancing needed in the front wheelwells, but nothing major.

Panhard is the bar that is behind the rear axle that locates the axle from side to side on the vehicle. With long coils, the stock panhard bar pulls the axle closer to the passenger side making the driveshaft get really close to the gas tank and likely contacting it during wheeling.

 

My truck has a lot and I mean a lot of crud all over it. I don't think I could do the body lift myself and I'm concerned about it affecting my bruchgaurd cause it fits pretty snugley. I think if I had a shop do the body lift they would get fed up and not do it right. Of course a suspension lift has the same problems but I think it could get done easier still by some pros, money is an issue too but I have been saving for a year.

 

I left my front bumper in place since I have a Smittybilt brushguard. I have a gap on top of an inch. I'm making a custom bumper, so I'm happy to live with it for a while. I did my own BL with out a garage, or a flat piece of pavement for that matter. Getting some of the rusty bolts off was the hardest part. The actual lifting of the body and installing the blocks/new hardware was a cake walk. Plus the BL was only around $100. Leaves money for other mods!!

 

Does the gap seem like it could be filled by getting 1'' square steel tubing and chop-sawing and welding up a "U" shape that attaching it somehow because I could do that.

 

I'll try to shoot some pics tomorrow of it so you can see for yourself. I almost think if I were leaving it that way, I'd fill the gap with 1/8" plastic sheet formed to the right shape or flexible "liner" type material. No one has made mention of the gap. Even my wife didn't notice and it's been like that for a month+.

 

Go with the body lift, I'm getting ready to do it on my '95...I'm pumped!

Fink

 

Fink how much BL ya going with? I'm getting ready for 2" My buddy did it with no probs with brake lines and such. He extended his shifters and that was it.

 

Here's the gap pics as promised...







It doesn't look THAT bad. I think a dark colored rig helps though.

 

Hey man, thanks alot, that is not that bad like you said. You have a one inch body lift? Where can I get one and how much? I may just give it a go and I will be sure to do a write up if I figgure out how to "bridge the gap".

 

I don't have a brushguard but I know how they attach and I cannot see how getting some brackets fabbed to raise a brushguard would be any big deal. They would be much like the brackets to raise the bumper which I got with my body lift. A 1" gap no big deal, but a 2" gap would look silly IMO. Any local fab shop could fab you some brackets easy.

2" Roger Brown body lift $166 shipped; spacers and bolts, bumper brackets and steering extension with 2 day air

www.4crawler.com

Now if I can just get my OMEs put on. They have been sitting in my garage since Friday.

 

The best body lift

Mine cost around $100 shipped and yes it is a 1", standard hardware, and the blocks colored black. Nothing else needed. With a 1", it's so easy it almost installs itself. You'll love it.

 

At least with the Smittybilt I have, it's not that simple. The unit mounts under the frame horns. To make it work, you'd need to cut off part of the guard and fab some sort of new brackets to go around the end of the frame. No thanks.

 

I like one thing the most, the price . With one inch you didn't have to extend any lines, wires or shafts? I have herd some horror stories. I'm not sure what that other guy is talking about though. I don't see anyway at all that my gaurd could be lifted. The uprights curve under the frame rails and then have 90 degree brackest welded to them and then are bolted up into the frame with six bolts. How could you moove it up, flip the frame over JK JK . I'm not a wise ass, I'm sure if he saw it he would understand. Anyway, thanks for the help, did you do a write up, I seem to remember one somewhere with a blue 2nd gen.

 

My truck is red, so I painted the side gap black.

Most people have no idea there is a body lift on my truck, even with the gap up front. I have not yet painted the space in front, mostly because it is harder to mask, etc.

My little bro says that it looks stupid, but he wants neon and 22's for his runner for Christmas, so take that for what it's worth.

 

There's a write up on the 4Crawler site that I used. I have an Auto tranny, so no adjustments or lengthening of anything was required. It is really easy. Hardest part for me was breaking the existing hardware loose.

 

One for a 2" RB body lift on my website.

As far as extending a brushguard with brackets, I guess it would depend on the mounting style and I've never seen a Smitty. I also work at a fab shop so what some would consider too much work would be relatively simple for me.

 

j/k