You'll also find a number of "experts" who think rotor warping doesn't happen (they believe its uneven wear or deposits on the rotor - hence turning the rotor removes the deposits or properly planarizes the rotor from uneven wear).

Google the internets or search here at YT.

Which ones true (drilling, slotting, rotors warping etc)? That's up to you. There's enough people spewing "data" on both sides of the fence that you could make a case either way.

 

I just bought Brembo slotted/drilled rotors, also bought Raybesto's Ceremic pads(bought them off ebay $150 shipped). I'll post updates on initial feedback. My rear breaks are out of adjustment so I"ll be doing this. I didnt really have wraping issues with my rotors until I noticed my rear drums getting weaker putting more work into my front rotors. I'm sure new rotors and rear break adjustment will do the trick. It's scary when your truck starts to shake like crazy and you lose feedback from your brakes..............going down hill

BTW my mechanic told me the rotors on 4runners are better off being replace than turned(he has a 97 4runner limited himself) he even said go with Brembos!

 

Where did you get them I want a set.

 

i think those are regular Brembo rotors non - slotted/drilled?

 

The drilled and slotting is used to let the gases escape between the rotor and pad, as you use your brakes alot gases build between the pad and rotor from the pad wearing which in turn causes brake fade. The more you use them the harder you have to press on the peddle to get stopping power this creates heat which is the primary cause of rotor warp. Just look at every nascar, winston cup car and drag cars most all forms use drilled and slotted rotors.

 

While many sports cars use drilled/slotted rotors, the rotors are also MUCH LARGER in diameter relative to the cars' weight to accomodate heavy braking and take the heat. Simply put (as others have said) more mass = more ability to handle heat = less prone to warp. Unless you are getting larger diameter rotors, drilling only leads to quicker warping, stress fractures and failed rotors.

Slotting doesn't take near as much off the rotor as drilling, and allows pad gases to escape as well as water while driving in the rain.

For best dry stopping power, use a blank rotor of quality material like Brembo, Bradi, Zimmerman, etc. Slotted quality rotors will aid in wet braking. Drilled rotors look cool, unfortunately they don't keep cool.

 

NO, nearly all of them are plain, a few are mildly slotted, and almost none are drilled.

http://www.outlawdiscbrakes.com/rotors.html

 

I'll spend my two cents by saying: TORQUE the rotors to the hubs in a criss-cross pattern (47 lb.-ft.) and TORQUE the lug nuts in a criss-cross pattern (74 lb.-ft.). You'd think, "uh, yeah, of course", but TWO different ham-fisted techs at TWO different TOYOTA DEALERSHIPS ruined TWO sets of expensive (Brembo) cross-drilled rotors by slappling the wheels back on before quitting time.

These rotors are very sensitive to unequal torquing and WILL go to shat if torqued unevenly.

Ultimately, cross-drilled/slotted rotors just aren't worth it because when the time comes, they CAN'T be machined on normal truing machines. They need a flywheel grinder. It can cost just as much in most cases to just buy (expensive) new ones.

 

since this is a free-for-all, it is my belief that cross drilled and slotted rotors do make a world of difference. i put a set on my 1996 jetta and they made a world of difference when i was driveing in wet and when i felt like having a little fun on back roads. they never faded like stock rotors did, never warped and eliminated the brake dust-on-wheels problem so many of us know all too well. whenever i do need new rotors on my 93 pickup i am going to get a set of crossdrilled and slotted rotors.