My "morot" has a distributor, so I guess I can put one on?

 

Man sometimes my typing just can't keep up with my brain!



Accel is owned by Mr. Gasket or something like that

www.mrgasket.com is the site I think...

They may have some kind of application guide that could confirm it for you.

 

 

I wanted to close out this thought.


I got my alternator on Friday, and it went in today.

It was a perfect OEM look and fit, just like Tom advertises. No adapters required for the electrical connections and no special brackets required for the mechanical.

When I first fired it up, I was a bit put-off because I was figuring on seeing the output voltage to be higher than the old alternator (12.86 at idle and at 3000 rpm), but it was exactly the same. This worried me because I was convinced the old alternator was shot (low batt voltage, diming lights, fuel gauge would drop when my electric fans kicked in, air compressor seemingly running slow).

But, on the drive home from FunRunner's (where I installed it) it was CLEARLY evident that the truck was running a LOT better. For example, there was no fuel gauge droop when the fans kicked in and I could also swear that the truck got more kick to it.

So at this point, I'm VERY happy.


fwiw. mine was listed as 150amp, and was $235 shipped.

A great deal. WAHOO!

Reference: http://www.mralternator.com

 

Hey Mark, did you happen to take any pics?

 

No, sorry. I didn't have the camera with me today and I was too gruddy to work a camera anyway... But it's pretty clear what you need to do once you look at it a bit.

A couple of hightlights:

• There are a total of 3 bolts. The top one, one below it 180 degrees around the alternator from the top, and then the tensioner.
• The tensioner is hidden and that gave me some trouble - I had to remove the wire loom from it's plastic clips to get enough clearance for a ratchet. (12mm socket btw!)
• Loosening the main bolt on top was a PAIN. If you have LiquidWrench, spray it on there the night before - you'll need all the help you can get. I ended up using a 3' jack handle slipped over the handle on the ratchet to get enough leverage to crack it loose.
• BEFORE pulling the power lead from the alternator, bite the bullet and disconnect the battery first (thus meaning that you'll have to reset your clock and radio). If you don't, you run a HUGE risk of shorting out the battery straight to the frame. That's REAL bad, and can end up in an explosion.
• Getting the old alternator to free up from the top mounts is interesting. It'll help if you have a large screwdriver to pry it out. It won't just fall-away out from the bracket.
• Likewise, getting the new one back in is interesting as well.
• Do it with the engine cold. It will get REAL hot under the hood and that's just not comfy to be working in there like that.

All in all - it's really straight-forward to do. It took me about 90 minutes to do today, and that included the time to get the top bolt loose and find something to gain leverage on the ratchet. If I were to do it again, it's under 30 minutes.

 

Mark - did you replace your accessory belt while you were at it? I was thinking of doing that, but think mine were done at my last timing belt change (20k ago).

 

Ya' know, to be honest with you, I didn't think about it until I had the alternator unwedged from in there. oops.

I did get a look at it and it looked okay, but honestly, I was hot and greazzy (we were working outside in only quasi-shade) and it deserved a better look.

The good news is that now that I've done this, it would take 10 minutes tops to do it. Sounds like I'll be heading to the store today.

 

I just wanted to see the new alt in there.

 

You can see a pic of mine in about a week...