SRB

I'm preparing to do a 3.4 engine R&R on my 01 Dcab TRD, anyone have a lead where a guy could buy a reman or new motor from? Not interested in used as the truck is immaculate and I plan on keeping the rig despite this engine issue for a long time. Warranty and quality are important, don't want to spend $6k on a long block either. I'll do the work. Tks for any help offered!

Greedy

Have you tried Nix 99 in Lynnwood? I am in the market for a spare 5vz too but have not checked them yet. Also, I have heard that Oregon has a bunch of yards you can get them for a fair price.

SRB

Tks for the tip, I have not checked lynwood. Best deal I have found is Oregon Engine Rebuilders. They have a bare longblock (no wp or Tbelt) for $2300 with unilimited time/mileage warranty as long as you own the vehicle. I bit skeptical at this as the price seems too low. ATK sells a more complete LB (has wp and tb) for $4300 so what's the difference???? The only used engines I've found have 60K plus mileage so I don't want that. To go through the work to R&R, I want a known quantity, meaning fresh motor with warranty. After all, my motor only has 61K yet it's on it's way out...

BruceTS

only 61K and it's going dead? What the heck happened, to cause it to fail so early?

BTW I went with one of the used import engines from Japan, so far, I've put over 100k with no problems. Complete engine cost me $1550

SRB

The engine has a bad case of piston slap. When cold it takes 15 minutes to get quiet. Rest an hour and it'll start again. Drives me insane.

Other than the banging, it actually runs perfectly well... It started at a little over 50K, Toyota won't do anything so I'm on my own. Not interested in the expense and hassle of legal. I'll just pay for the engine as I did the truck... Like I said, the truck is immaculate, I'm very particular about maint. so with a new engine it'll last a long time theoretically....

BC_4runner

just get a shop to fix your motor itll probably be cheaper

pruney81

Someone else on this board bought a 3.0 from Oregon engine Rebuilders and it blew head gaskets after 15k miles. I know yours is a 3.4 just FYI. On the other hand it's pretty bizarre that you are having problems at 61k miles as I own a 95 3.0 with 162k miles and it runs great. I bet you could do alright with a good used 3.4. Plenty of guys on here have done 3.4 swaps with used 3.4's with no probs. But if you want to spend $$$ that's your perrogative. Although, it doesn't seem like you have the best of luck buying new engines anyways, so I'd shop around for a used one. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

SRB

It may, the engine builder I used to use for my race motors (before kids came along) would be my choice. Not cheap but would be the smoothest 3.4 you ever saw! Main issue with that I am not prepared for the month of downtime that would create. He is quite busy. At this time I can handle a long weekend for an R&R. Who knows, I may go that route because of the relationship the builder and I have. Absolutely no concern with his work or standing behind a build. Every builder of motors will have a bad one, even Toyota. So Oregon engine re builders has to have them too.

While we're at it, heres a pic of the truck and the piston slapping 3.4...

SRB

Dup post, Sorry!

icerunner

I was thinking about this myself......
If you want a real good deal.... Try to find a runner 3.4L that been in a moderate rear end collision where the insurance company has "totaled" the car....due to cost.
Note any damage around $6K to $10K on a 3 generation runnner will likely be "totaled".


But beware Japaneze engines run very tight tolerances and if the engine got "tweeked" at all during the accident you are risking a lot. You do not want a warped head or an engine that was run after the accident compleatly flipped over or on its side. (as oil flow to the engine will be cut off in seconds.... while the engine is still running)

good luck and tell us what you find...

Weasy2k

What caused the piston slap? Thats nuts for such a low milage engine...still not broken in yet!

I will keep an eye out for you as well...i am always searching for toyota v6 motors

arjan

Interesting, I replaced my engine because of piston slap too. When I opened it up there was quite a bit of oil sludge buildup on top of the heads and it the bottom end.
I always figured that the previous owners didn't do a good job on oil changes, maybe there is something else going on.
I bought a 12K mile engine from a local yunkyard for about $1200. It right away took care of the timing belt at approx 90K miles and I had an almost new clutch.

An evening of wrenching with the help of a forklift and it was all done.

SRB

Well, knowing what I do about performance engines, I'd say that the engine in my truck was not machined or piston/wrist pin not to tolerance. I've taken good care of the truck so I don't feel it was my fault. I've tried a number of different weight oils lately and the viscosity does impact the noise. I've taken all accessory drives off and listened to just the motor running. Based on the back rattle and other symptoms, clearly a loose piston or wrist pin that when hot increases in size enough to reduce the noise.

If I could find a really low mileage motor I'd seriously consider that route. Otherwise, rebuilding mine or getting a rebuilt motor is the path to take. First, I'll wait as long as possible or until winter when the slapping really is bad!

Ganoid

Interesting idea on the wrist pin. The 3.0 and 3.4 both press fit the wrist pin into the rod and use the lower portion of the piston skirt as the bearing journal. With that in mind you should be able to simply swap pistons (new rings of course) and a honing with no work to the rods other than bearings on the large end and probably only because you are there. Seems like a couple hundred dollar fix to me and a weekend of wrenching. With such low millage you should be able to simply replace parts with no real machine work needed.

SRB

Could be, would need to take the motor to a machinist to check out and make the determination. If time is not an issue rebuilding the short block would be a good way to go and put new w/p and T/B on re-use cyl. heads...