My starter wont stop turning over..help!
03-03-2008, 08:23 AM
#21
On cause of the solenoid sticking is worn copper contacts. Why? Because the solenoid pluger pulls into the bore and makes contact with the two copper parts, if they have worn unevenly (as they usually do), one side of the plunger ring is lower than the other, causing it to get "cocked" in the bore and possibly stick. Also, worn, dirty contacts are more likely to arc and this can possibly "weld" the plunger ring to the contact.
Open up the starter and see if this is the case:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
If so, it is an easy and inexpensive repair.
Open up the starter and see if this is the case:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
If so, it is an easy and inexpensive repair.
also, it can stick on because it makes poor contact, arcs, and then welds the plunger to the contact, and only smacking with a hammer or engine vibration finally pops it back off with help from the spring.
also it is wise to insert a dry clean plunger. no lube, don't let cleaner drizzle down the spring hole, better to
leave it alone unless you find mung in there that the plunger sticks to. a dirty spring is ok, but the key is
a dry plunger. at most a new plunger may have light machine oil on it. about as much machine oil as you
would get if you wet a paper towel with machine oil lightly, and them wiped the part. any more could
attract the ionized copper over time and make a mung ball.
also in my investigation for parts, some people are selling one contact, then the other, and
the plunger all separately. costs too much if you ask me. and the dealer normally doesn't sell
plungers.
I may get in trouble for advertising this dude, (my 4th post mentioning him)
but he has the EXACT parts for your starter, with all
the contacts, insulators, nuts, (plus an extra contact) and a plunger for 25 bucks. shipped is 30 bucks.
the new contacts he sells have more meat on them, but it is for the same starter you own.
look him up on ebay 'clickerfixer' this dude has the best one-shot full kit with plunger for less than some
charge for the plunger alone. and no guesswork, you find the one for your make model and year, or ask him
via email, and you will get a nice USPostal package with your awesome repair parts.
like others say, the starter should last more than 400,000 miles, but the contacts need
to be changed maybe three times in that lifespan.
Last edited by edzo; 03-03-2008 at 08:34 AM.
03-12-2015, 02:00 AM
#24
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I was on my way home from work when I noticed smoke coming from what I found was my starter. I put a new starter in cause I figured that one was burnt. could it be the ignition switch
12-28-2016, 12:37 PM
#25
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Starter stuck suggestions.
Just to help, for anyone who may be researching this thread:
- You can do a starter swap through the passenger wheel well. It takes about an hour, all told.
- Replacing the copper tabs is a great fix, and usually is all you need so long as you didn't roast your starter or plunger before getting to fixing it. The tabs cost about $10 at any battery/starter/rebuilder. They don't even need to match the ones that come out, exactly, so long as they're close. That said, the starter in the 4Runner is basically a GM design, so the exact replacements shouldn't be hard to come by.
- One more reason to keep a crowbar in your truck - if the starter won't engage or disengage, whack it with the tip of the crowbar a few times (again, through the wheel well). That almost always saves it. If not, keep a wrench in the truck if you can be disconnected from your battery.
- I did the tab swap on the OE starter at 150,000, and it's still running now past 250,000.
STICK
- You can do a starter swap through the passenger wheel well. It takes about an hour, all told.
- Replacing the copper tabs is a great fix, and usually is all you need so long as you didn't roast your starter or plunger before getting to fixing it. The tabs cost about $10 at any battery/starter/rebuilder. They don't even need to match the ones that come out, exactly, so long as they're close. That said, the starter in the 4Runner is basically a GM design, so the exact replacements shouldn't be hard to come by.
- One more reason to keep a crowbar in your truck - if the starter won't engage or disengage, whack it with the tip of the crowbar a few times (again, through the wheel well). That almost always saves it. If not, keep a wrench in the truck if you can be disconnected from your battery.
- I did the tab swap on the OE starter at 150,000, and it's still running now past 250,000.
STICK
01-24-2023, 05:12 AM
#26
I has having starter issues proior to this with by my starter described here. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#IntroductionThe problem was that the starter would click when trying start the car. All I had to do was keep cranking over my car and it would start. Today when i tried to start my car, it started then wouldnt stop turning over ( as if I was holding the key to the start position). When I turned the key off and removed it, it sounds like the starter is still trying to start the car. If I put the key back in and put it to on, the car will sart. I kept turning over for about 5 minuites whil i ran to go get my tools and disconnected the battery wire. Ive tried shaking the key in the ingition and fidding with tha t alittle bit but removing the battery seems to be the only way to stop it as of right now. When I put the battery cable back on, it begins to crank over again. Anyone ever had this problem or have any idea what might be wrong?
This is in my 97 4runner btw
This is in my 97 4runner btw
im having the same problem in my 1996 4runner i’ve changed the relay fuse and ignition switch still does it
01-24-2023, 05:26 AM
#27
my 96 didn’t wanna start a month ago and check engine came on, i replaced the starter and it fired right up everytime, before i replaced the starter i replaced the starting relay fuse, and the ignition switch trying to fix the not starting problem, but the starter needed replaced, then a few weeks later i shut off my engine and my starter kept cranking trying to start without my key being in the start position, it fried my starter i had to disconnect the battery, i finally put a new one on under napas warranted starter and it ran fine. for about 2 days and now it’s doing the same thing still cranking with power to the starter, i’ve had to touch my battery positive together to starter it then pull my fuse that runs my gages and starter after i get it running just so it won’t crank while i drive, cause i still gotta get to work this is my daily. anyone got any solutions on suggestions! please hmu
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